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Building your own Treestand?

Discussion in 'Bowhunting Talk' started by Deerslayer7, Sep 22, 2009.

  1. ArcheryStalker

    ArcheryStalker Weekend Warrior

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    I've built 4 of my own ladder stands. 14' and 16 footers. Rip a 2X6 Fir in half so about 2 1/2" wide for the legs, get some 1X3's for steps, you'll need 2 2X4's for brases from the legs to the plate form. and a peice of 3/4" plywood for the platform. cut a V into the back of the platform so it can rest on the tree. I ratchet strap it to the tree about a foot from the top. Never had a problem, very sturdy. I've shot deer out of em every year.

    Heres a pic of one of my 14 footers
    [​IMG]
     
  2. MGH_PA

    MGH_PA Moderator

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    Many of our watches on our hunting club land are built stands. We have a lot of revenue, so cost isn't an issue, but it seems to be more of a tradition than anything. If built right, they will last a decent amount with minor upkeep throughout the years, but even we're transitioning to ladder stands for drive stands as of this year. All of the archery hunters have their own hang-ons, ladders, and climbers. We're now in the process of purchasing "public" ladder stands for all club members. Building them is fun, but like many have mentioned, cost isn't very advantageous especially when you consider longevity.

    If you really have your heart set on one, simple PT 2x8's for the floor joists, PT 2x6s for the decking, PT 2x4s for the shooting rails and supports (we usually cap the top and sides to form the shooting rail so it looks like |_, but reversed:) Use hot-dip galvanized or stainless fasteners.
     
  3. wiaxle

    wiaxle Weekend Warrior

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    This stand has been in place for about 8 years or so, yes, I know it looks crooked, but it is square, have hunted it numerous times, and the general design is in use in about 20+ other spots.

    2 people can put one up (mostly on the ground) but 3 is optimal (especially if you have use of a tractor with a bucket) not recommended on moving them.

    can be built so no nailing into the tree is required, but it easier to do it that way

    material requirements (all treated lumber)
    (2) 2x4x16'
    (4) 2x4x8'
    how ever many steps are needed (this will depend on how wide you make the platform)
    and floorboards and a seat.

    usually single bolt the 8 footers about 18" apart on the top, then put in one floor board towards the back, the top(ish) step the flop the whole thing up against the tree, build the steps up to the top.

    for added safety add a tie-rope onto the back and tie it back to something else to prevent it pulling away from the tree as you work your way up and fasten it to the tree

    only time one of these stands comes down is when the tree tips over or a very large branch takes them out (happened a handful of times)

    [​IMG]

    forgot to add, we go out yearly and check the general condition of the stand, as the wood goes (treated lumber, but it still rots) we replace what is bad, a step here, a seat there, whatever. Check how the tree is growing in relation to the stand, may need to do some work on reattaching, etc.... do the upkeep and they will last a loooooong time.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2009
  4. WV Hunter

    WV Hunter Die Hard Bowhunter

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    I don't have any pics of our permanent stands but I can tell you the absolute best thing to build stands out of that I have seen is rough cut oak. I have a couple stands that are about 12yrs old....and still solid as can be. We usually build them between two big oak or hickory trees....about 15-20ft up, and at least 6ft apart. Nail two rough cut oak boards (preferably 2x8's) to the trees, and I use a 6-8" rairoad spike to really anchor it. Leave the head out slightly, so it has room to suck in over the years. Once you have your braces...use 2x10 or 2x12 rough cut oak boards for your floor. I prefer to predrill holes, and screw them down with 3" outdoor screws. Its easier (oak is hard to nail through) and you can replace a board if need be much easier that beating it off. Screw on some 2x4's on each corner and again across the tops of them for rails (can be treated or oak, as they don't support you). Then use either burlap, plywood or the material of your choice for the sides. One of my favorite has black landscaping fabric, it works great and is very cheap...plus it lasts longer than burlap. I prefer to make them so you can fit two people easily...5' x 5' works pretty well, or bigger is better. The key is the rough cut oak, it lasts forever it seems. Take a look at all the barns...some of that wood is 50yrs old, and still decent. You still need to check them for sure....but I can guarantee it will last longer than pressure treated. We also build roofs on some of them. I just use pressure treated plywood at a slight angle so water runs off on my backside. Hope this helps some, might be hard to envision without a pic. Ladder can be any type you wish...I usually use pressure treated.
     

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