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Building Arrows

Discussion in 'Tech Talk' started by GABowhunter, Feb 10, 2009.

  1. GABowhunter

    GABowhunter Moderator

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    I have never messed with fletching my own arrows, but was interested in learning for the upcoming season. Can anyone direct me towards a good "How to" site?
     
  2. Justin

    Justin Administrator

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    We don't have a guide posted right now, but I'll be working on one shortly. Will have it posted in written and video format within the next month or so.

    As for advice, the best I can really give you is to use quality components and tools and you'll be much happier with the results. The most popular fletching jig is by far the Bitzenberger, although there are others that work. Having a good cutoff saw is key, along with several other tools including an arrow spinner and an arrow squaring device. Once you have the proper tools, making your own arrows is pretty easy and can be fun.
     
  3. mobow

    mobow Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Dude.....If Justin can do it...:confused: I'm just sayin.....:tu:

    It really is easy. The Bitz is defintely the best in the business, but honestly, for the average guy building his own arrows at home the Grayling is just as good and cost half as much. I use Bitz's at the shop I work at, and have the Grayling at home.

    You'll need good glue (pine ridge, goat tuff and Bohning Quantum XT work extremely well, fletching tape is the way to go with feathers.) Obviously you'll need the fletching of your choice and wraps if you so choose.

    Also, if you intend to use helical on feathers you must use right hand helical with right wing feathers, and left wing helical for left wing feathers. If you're using offset, the same is true. Left offset, left wing feathers. Right offset, right wing feathers. If you mix them up the feather will lay flat in flight and do you no good at all.

    Lay the arrow on the jig and line up your fletching with whichever hash mark on the clamp that you choose. Just remember which one so you can get all 3 the same. The real art form of fletching is the glue. Not too much, but not too little. Just a thin bead the length of the fletch is good enough. Slide the clamp onto the magnet of the jig and set the fletch flush with the arrow. Now walk away for a few minutes, that glue needs to set. Remove the clamp (and you can also get some clamp release tape that is a big help. It prevents the glue from sticking to the side of the fletching and the jig) and rotate the nock ring. Repeat the process.

    If you'll be utilizing wraps, you'll need a computer mouse pad or a magazine. Lay the wrap on the pad and line the arrow up squarely with it. Using firm pressure roll the arrow onto the wrap. Voila. Nothing to it. You just don't want to use a hard surface (such as a table) for this because you'll get wrinkles in the wrap. Have some extras because I assure you that you'll very likely ruin the first one or 2 until you get the hang of it. Then fletch using the above procedure. It sounds complicated but truly it isn't. It does take a bit of practice to get the wraps square and learn how much glue to use. There really is nothing to it, however.
     
  4. mobow

    mobow Die Hard Bowhunter

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    That's also a good point, Jeff. One other trick to combat that is to put some string wax on the threads of the tip. Locks them in there quite well.
     
  5. Bols

    Bols Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Dude, if Mobow can do it.... :confused: I'm just saying! :tu: :D

    At any rate, great advice noted above. But I wanted to add this dual purpose tip that will help you start the fletching process and help you practice for those times when you are ready to re-fletch an existing shaft.

    You are going to need practice stripping off old vanes, so why not start on an old shaft you certainly aren't going to use again? The reason for this is it takes some time getting use to stripping enough of the vane, base of the vane, and old glue without damaging the carbon fibers. When I first started re-fletching shafts I was using a utility knife. While it worked, I know I destroyed the first shaft by digging too deep into the shaft. The worst part, this was a shaft I intended to use!! Since then I have bought the "Zip Strip" and works well. This tool is made by Norway Industries and I have had good luck with this tool:


    [​IMG]

    Just wanted to add, you can buy it here on BH.com if you are interested. Follow the link below:

    http://www.bowhunting.com/shopping/Products/Zip-Strip__NW-ZIPSTRIP.aspx


    Bohning also makes one, as well as Saunders, and other companies. While it isn't a necessity, it does have it's benefits over a utility knife. With practice, you will be able to do the same thing with a utility knife but if want to be sure you aren't messing up arrows, you can always find a fletching stripper at your local archery shop, big box store, online archery shops, etc.

    Enough of the product placement, back to the tips. :cool:

    Grab yourself an old shaft that has the vanes on or partially on, whatever you have lying around. From there you are going to want to strip the old vane off, as noted above, getting the vane, base of the vane and glue off without damaging the shaft. From there, I usually rub some denatured alcohol on any of the glue that remains. If there still are some heavy deposits of glue that just won't budge, I get some 320 or finer (the finer the better if it will still strip the glue) grit sandpaper and gently rub the sandpaper anywhere that needs it. After sanding, you will need to thoroughly clean the end of the shaft with denatured alcohol. This will get rid of any of the carbon dust or oil from your fingers/hand that might remain on the shaft. This is important as this determines how well the vane will stick, if not using a wrap. This will also help keep a clean surface for a wrap to adhere to if you choose to use wraps. When using wraps, do as Mobow suggested. It works the best.

    If you choose to use a wrap, it doesn't hurt to LIGHTLY (not too hard otherwise you might rub the ink off the wrap) rub a little denatured alcohol on the portion of the wrap where you want your vanes located. This will help establish a good clean surface for your vanes to stick to.

    Always make sure to read the directions that come with the vanes/feathers. In some cases, you might have to prep the vane base (as per the manufacturers directions) to get the best adhesion possible.

    From here, follow the advice given by Mobow. The nice part of starting on a shaft you don't care about is you can practice getting the fletching lined up properly and if you mess up, you don't have to worry about immediately stripping the vanes off of an arrow you intend to use.

    And just like anything in life, the more you practice, the easier fletching becomes!
     
  6. mobow

    mobow Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Dude.....for a guy that doesn't go hunting.... :confused: I'm just sayin...:tu: :uzi:

    But darn it....He's right. The zip strip is an inexpensive, yet invaluable, tool to the home arrow builder. We have the Saunders version at the shop, it's awesome.

    I'm not so sure about using denatured alcohol on the wrap itself.....While Bols there did mention LIGHTLY..... yer gonna rub some color off.....I've never had issues with vanes/feathers sticking to wraps. I will say, though.....Use that denatured alcohol to clean the arrow shaft before wrapping/fletching. DO NOT use acetone on carbon arrows. Denatured alcohol only, please. Also, sometimes vanes just don't stick well to some carbon arrows the green scotch brite pad works wonders. It scuffs the shaft surface just enough to allow for good adhesion. Then clean the shaft again to remove any dirt and carbon dust.
     
  7. Bols

    Bols Die Hard Bowhunter

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    There Justin, we just did the blog for you. :woot:

    You can pay Don, Jeff and I later. :cool: :tu: :D

    As for the denatured alcohol on wraps, just rub them LIGHTLY. I mean, LIGHTLY. You won't take that much off if you don't go overboard. Don't scrub, just gently wipe the surface. :d

    Any more questions, just fire away. Hopefully you can use this like a guide to help you get started.
     
  8. MGH_PA

    MGH_PA Moderator

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    I keep seeing the zip strip brought up a lot, and when I inquired about it, most simply said stick with the dull razor blade :D I may have to give one a try, but I'm also considering going to wraps soon, so adhesive removal won't necessarily as daunting of a task. As for the acetone, I was also told it was fine (yes I know it's clearly stated not to my arrow manufacturers). One guy on AT went as far as letting his arrows soak in it for days, then shot the arrows for quite some time with no failures. Who knows? I suppose it's better to be safe than sorry.

    Also, I recommend the bitz jig as well, but a little tip I found from reading some people experiencing slight variations in vane placement. When lowering the clamp onto the shaft, use your other hand to make sure the shaft is fully seated in the nock receiver. I had one or two arrows that moved forward slightly and caused on vane to be placed a wee bit lower than the other two. That arrow flys just fine, but cosmetically it bugs the heck out of me.
     
  9. GABowhunter

    GABowhunter Moderator

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    Thanks to all for the responses they are a big help.
     
  10. mobow

    mobow Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Jeff I'm not saying you're doing wrong with that because it's obviously worked and you've had no problems. So I'm more thinking out loud here than anything.

    I would be hesitant to sand a carbon arrow. Those fibers are pretty small and by sanding it seems to me that the intergrity of said carbon would be compromised. I know most arrow makers start with 1 stock size arrow then sand them down to their specs, but......I dunno.....The scotch brite pad is more to scuff the finish on the arrows than it to scratch the arrow itself. It seems that a woven carbon arrow would be even more affected by sanding than would say...an ACC. Again, just thinking out loud.....
     
  11. bloodcrick

    bloodcrick Moderator/BHOD Prostaff

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    There ya go GABowhunter, some mighty fine tips and guidence here. Ill cast another vote for the bitz :tu: I love mine!! Heck, if any of these punks can do it :whip: :lol: Im just sayin to!! :rock:
     
  12. jkcmerg

    jkcmerg Weekend Warrior

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    I use the zip strip and i love it..it is so easy to use and i haven't messed up an arrow yet..(knock on carbon)...
     
  13. MGH_PA

    MGH_PA Moderator

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    I may have to try it, just to settle my curiosity once and for all.
     
  14. in da woods

    in da woods Grizzled Veteran

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    I have the arizone e-z fletcher. Never done them b-4 last yr, no problems. way worth the price and time. Now I don't have to run to the shop when I lose fletching.
     

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