i just got a rip cord drop away rest installed on my bow. now when adjusting it for my broadheads do i adjust the rest or the sights?
Paper tune the rest, pin tune the bh. Spin the bh in each arrow to ensure the insert was glued in straight. Great rest, I have 2.
Move rest to bring broadheads to field points. If they won't come together, you most likely have a spine issue. Once together, check paper. If there is a tear in paper. Your yoke needs twisted or you have a grip issue. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
I agree up to "once they are together" part...after that, your good!...no need for paper when both fp's and bh's are together
I didn't say no need for paper. Paper is a cruciap part of good broadhead flight and penetration. But there are a lot of reasons for a tear and each one needs to be eliminated. The rest should be set to centershot, regardles of tear. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
make sure the fletching is inline with the blades to avoid drag... I put a rip chord on my reezen 6.5 it gave me a fit wouldn't drop fast enough for the bow I put a pro v limb driver on my monster 7.0 and was banging tacks at 40 yards in minutes. I hope you have better luck with the rip chord. I came close to chunking it over the hill acouple of times LOL
Blades in line with fletch makes no difference. That would be a bit tough for my 4 blade heads and 3 fletch. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
This is very true. I have some slick tricked arrows and some arrows with exodus heads. They both hit the mark every time I shoot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
this is a common misconception I hear often....your arrow is spinning, what is the relationship then?...I think it started when someone said or wrote b-heads must be aligned or in alignment...meaning aligned with shaft as in no wobble...not meaning aligned with fletching.
tfox, I either said it wrong or you read me wrong...what I meant was, if they are flying together, you should be good, if one of those other things are off (torquing, etc) you'd never get that to happen...I'd go with paper first, to get in the ballpark so to speak, but ultimate goal is getting b-heads and fp's together, once that happens, no need for further tweaking.
Again, after broadheads are hitting with field points, check paper(again). You need to adjust the tear out without moving the rest. Proper grip, proper spine (will show up in broadhead tune) and yoke tuning should achieve a good tear. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
It's was actually in the easton tuning guide years ago that a couple prominent archers wrote for them.(if I remember correctly) It has since been debunked as not necessary. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
May have been debunked but... My bemans and hellrazors that happened to line up blades with fletchings, do indeed shoot more true than the ones that don't align and they are more consistant. Proven or disproven, I keep the few that line up naturally in my quiver and keep the others for practice and reserves.
