Alright guys i know how it goes with broadhead tuning and how it is suppose to be done but i have a few concerns. if i shoot my field tips and they are dead on, i have my bow paper tunes and sighted in properly. if i move my rest to change where my broadheads are hitting wont that completely disregard the need for my paper tune and my bow will no longer be paper tuned?, also wont my fieldtips hit differently then?
Yes and no, paper is good place to start, but it's no archery bible ! As far as moving the rest , it's odd but it never changed ft much more than I couldn't fix with a slight tweek to the sight. Kinda need a happy middle ground.
So would you recommend me moving the sights or the rest i really want to keep my center shot and bow tunes as properly as i can .
Depends on if your goal is to put a perfect hole in a piece of paper from 6 feet or to shoot a broad head through a deer's vitals at 30 yards...if its the latter then you better broadhead tune. You can do it two ways...your bow will tell you which one is right...move the broadheads to the field points or the field points to the broadheads. If your field points change point of impact(POI) but they are closer to your broadheads then you are on the right track. You can always adjust the sight windage and elevation to get your sight to have same aiming point as POI after you get your field points and broadheads to impact same spot.
If you broadhead tune the field points and broad heads should be grouping together. Once that happens you will indeed need to adjust your sights in most cases. At the end of the day I care more about the broadhead going where I want it vice a bullet hole in paper.
i just did mine a few days ago and found that i could get my broad heads about two inches to my field point then moved my sight inbetween the twoo and now can stack both on top of eachother!
No it shouldn't...just make tiny little adjustments and mark where you started so you can go back if needed. I'm talking like 1/64" type movements.
Paper tuning is just a starting point in the tuning process for me. I use bareshaft tuning out to 20 yds to really dial in my bow. Once that's done, no need for any more tuning. Fixed broadheads hit with field points and bareshafts. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
I always start with paper tuning. Then figure out what broadhead I'm gonna use then start tuning the broadhead. I shot a field point then a broadhead, move the rest to the bh, then re-sight in the field point, shoot the bh & see where it hits. I do the over & over till they group together or start cutting vanes then I call it good enough.
Not always the case bareshaft and fletched at 25 yards, shot a MX3 Muzzy and a QUD Exodus 125 grain! The Muzzy was dead on with My fp the QUD was 3 inches to the right and 2 inches low repeated multiple times. So don't think if your bs tuned your good to go!
This is true. Not all broadheads fly alike. I do check and make sure they're hitting together. I also nock index all my bareshafts so they fly the same before I fletch. No problems with Slick Tricks or Exodus heads hitting with field points out to 60 yds. For me, Muzzy was a bit more unpredictable. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
I've got to apologize, it's not exodus heads I've been shooting, it's Montecs. Traded a friend of mine some old style Rages for them. I prefer the Slick Trick magnums because of more cutting surface. Gonna try some Grizztrick 2s this year. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
