well i have to say i was a little surprised when i did my final tuning . I switched out the field tips for 100 gr. NAP hell razors and i was shooting 4 inches. to the left every shot. I was shooting dead on with my field tips but way off with these broadheads. I also noticed there was alot of tail wobble during flight, what do you guys think. I shot great last year with the rage heads but i got these for free and wanted to try them out. I may go back to them........
i am left handed and i am shooting 2" blazer vanes. i have a matthews switch back maxed out at 29" arrow 65/70 and 100 grain head.
The short vanes might be your problem, but there are too many variables that come into play to say for sure. Fixed blade broadheads have a tendency to fly a little more erratic than field points or expandables. Longer fletching, 4 or 5", will give enough friction or "resistance" to make the arrow flight more stable. Of course, as always, you will need to sacrifice. In this instance you will be losing speed, but will be more accurate. Personally, I go for accuracy over speed any day. Just my $.02!
Your vanes aren't the problem and neither is the broadhead. The arrow is not spined correctly for your setup field tips and mechanicals will mask this problem. You can decrease your draw weight or buy different arrows.
Not necessarily. Assuming his field tips were 100 gr., then the only changing factor in his setup would be changing to a fixed blade. If he was dead on with 100 gr. field tips and then began shooting to the left with the 100 gr. broadheads with a lot of tail wobble, then something is making the flight of the arrow askew. Spine has nothing to do with it at this point, as dynamic spine will be the same whether being shot with 100 gr. field points or 100 gr. broadheads. Basically Newton's Law of Motion applies to this: "An object at rest tends to stay at rest until acted upon by a force". Take this same theory to an arrow on a bow. The broadhead or field tip are the object at rest, and the string is the force. The arrow itself is the compression point. If he has the same spine on all arrows used during practice with the field tips and then puts the broadheads on the same arrows, then the compression on the arrow will remain the same and the spine will not have a factor as you are still trying to move the same "resting" weight. I'm not trying to argue you with you at all, so please don't take it that way. You could be right and I could more than likely be wrong. But I just wanted to get my point across that IF he is using the same grain on both field tip and broadhead, then the spine wouldn't play a factor as he was already dead on with the field tips. Just my thoughts, don't throw me under the bus.
Don't do that, its just a band-aid. You need to TUNE your setup, regardless of what heads you choose to use. A poorly tuned bow is just that, regardless of what head you are shooting. Once you are tuned, then you can decide which bh to shoot and you will get the most out of it. First thing would be to see if your arrows are spined correctly for your setup, then if they are...you can begin to tune. Post up some more detailed info, I'm sure you can get the help you need.
Does your bow shoot "bullet holes" through paper at 2, 5, and 10 yards? When I achieve that with my bow...100 gr. muzzy's fly same as field points...if not shooting through paper correctly...BH's do not group with field points (obviously)
it shoots paper very well dead on out to 40 yds. its just a issue with these broadheads. it puts bullet holes at 5 and 10 yds. every shot....
As others have said, it sure seems like a spine issue. A properly tuned bow should be able to shoot any broadhead out there as far as i'm concerned. But you seem dead set on Rage, so good luck with that.
I'm not trying to argue with you on this issue but if an arrow isn't correctly spined then a field point and a broadhead will not hit in the same spot.
I agree with the above. You shoot left handed and your BH tipped arrows are impacting left. You have a weak spine. Try decreasing your draw weight one full turn out with the limb bolts on each limb and see where you POI is then. Shoot a BH and a field tip and see if the aren't hitting together or at least much closer.
I recently had to move my arrow rest to the right a little as my Strikers were hitting left of my field tips. Now they are shooting great.
When you add "steerage" to the front of the arrow, if there is a spine issue, it will be revealed at that time.
Richie, Why did you wait so long to practice with your BH's? You could've took care of this a month ago. Deer season Is almost here.
Bruce is exactly right. Many people are shooting bows that aren't in tune or setups that don't match and have no idea until they screw on a fixed-blade head; that's why I always broadhead tune a new bow setup even when planning to shoot a mech. It's also the very reason you see so many "I got poor penetration with my Rage heads", et al.
I know and agree 100%. Unfortunately, the mechanicals are used because they can't get fixed blades to fly correctly, as may be the case here. Then we get the post's Greg/MO is referring too.
This is the correct initial assessment one should consider based on your results. But it may or may not fix your problem. I am not sure what speed you are getting out of your set up but I would assume it would be 275fps or higher. It is strictly opinion as I don't pretend to be an "archer" as much as a"bowhunter" , but based on my first hand experience of switching to a "faster" bow this year, that all fixed BH's are not created equal. I had trouble BH tuning my new bow even though it was FP "tuned" based on paper tuning, arrow flight, and Easton's arrow chart, proper nock point and center shot,etc.. I was trying to shoot a 125gr 3 blade muzzy and could not get any constistency as well as noticeable erratic arrow flight with the BH as opposed to the FP. These same arrows/BH's shoot perfectly out of my old bow so I knew it wasnt the arrows/BH's by themselves. I switched arrows from 340's to 400's to adjust spine, changed the poundage on my bow and everything else i could think of and still couldn't get the groupings to come even close to my FP's. I went to pro shop and we verified all of the tuning aspects. Everything checked out, I shot the Muzzy again and same inconsistent results. My shop guy then suggested I try some other BH's. I tried 3 other brands and remarkably they all grouped perfect with my FP's. I am now of the opinion that the Muzzy is too high profile at the faster speed, I dunno. A friend of mine was going through the exact same thing with the Muzzy 125 and his new "faster" bow and he took of his 2" blazers and went back with conventional fletching and it fixed his problem. The purpose of mentioning this is that there may be more than one way to fix your problem, but you need to stay persistent in working towards resolving the issue before hunting. I am sure there will be some that say if your bow is "perfectly" tuned it shouldn't matter whay fixed BH you use and maybe they are right.....maybe by bow isn't "perfectly" tuned but I know it is at a minimum "near perfect" and is as good as myself and local bow shop guy can muster. I couldn't get this particular BH to fly anywhere near what I am able to do with lower profile BH's, so I am of the opinion that this was the wrong BH for my set up even though the overall set up is in tune. Regardless of all this, I can't agree more with the comments about BH tuning with a fixed even if you ultimately use the Rage. The Rage is a more difficult tip to get a pass thru with even from a well tuned bow and you certainly don't want to compromise the amount of available KE at impact when using this BH because your bow is not properly tuned even though the Rage groups with FP's.
