Gonna take a crack at tuning my first broadheads this coming week. Any tips / suggestions? Bow; G5 Primal @ 65 lbs QAD ultra rest Hitman 5 sight W/peep Little bitty goose release / loop attached Arrows; Carbon Express Maxima Hunter, 350 The sharp, stabby thing on the end, (wife definition) G5 Striker 100 gr. Thanks
Start close, 20 yards or less. Shoot 2-3 times each range to verify it is the arrow and not the shooter that is off/on Make small adjustments when an adjustment is needed. Check out to 50 yards if possible.
Bruce pretty much summed it up. Be picky. Small adjustments. If you find yourself getting tired, stop and take a little break and go at it again later.
Dont' forget to spin your broadheads to ensure they're not wobbling. Be extremely picky with your arrows. If a head doesn't spin true on one arrow, take it off and put a different head on it until you find one that does. Or, as I do, use an arrow squaring device to true your inserts and get your broadheads right. If you're shooting heads that are wobbling, all the tuning in the world won't help. Fixed heads must be darn close to perfect.
Yes, but you would use it on the shaft before putting the insert in and then use it on the insert also.
How do you spin test? With a jig or point a flat surface? If ya use the point to flat surface method, where do you spin the arrow from, middle of shaft, the nock, or where? Heard some guys talking about doing this in the palm of their hand, seems that spinning razor blades in the palm of your hand might lead to a large loss of body fluid, once when ya cut yourself and again when ya pee your pants.
If your shooting fixed blade watch out when shooting groups... easy way to cut up fletching. Found that out the hard way!
Something new shooters should be shown immediately... http://www.eastonarchery.com/img/downloads/software/tuning_guide.pdf
I saved this file from earlier advice, guess I'd best sit my but* down and read it. You can lead a horse to water . . . Thanks for the reminder.
When I shoot "groups" while broadhead tuning, I don't shoot at the same spot. I shoot three arrows at three different spots... I can still tell what kind of "group" I have without fear of splitting an expensive arrow shaft or other component.
You can spin them on your hand to get an idea.. Just put the point in the palm of one hand and let the shaft rest on your thumb and ring finger fingernail (making a smooth "V" surface") and blow on the fletchings.. My arrows will spin very fast when blown on... OR .... Place the broadhead on a table fletchings in the air.. Spin the arrow like spinning a penny on a table.. Watch the arrow and broadhead for wobble... OR ... Use an arrow saw balancer. I have an arrow saw and on the back are 2 sliding brackets with bearings on top.. Place the arrow on these bearings (one at both ends) and spin with your hand.. Works like an arrow straightening tool..
Like this? Brand new arrow and cut the fletching in half.... im just happy they group well. This was at 50 yards
This is a well overlooked mistake for all shooters. New shooters tend to get excited and want to get all their shooting/tuning done at one time. You will find if after a few warm up shots, you shoot a few tuning shots and then take a break. Do this about 3-4 times in one afternoon and call it a day. You will eliminate a lot of frustrations and waisted time chasing around arrows. Remember in bow hunting, it's the first shot that counts. If your shooting form changes after 30 shots and you are still tuning, you are waisting your time.
