New to this site and had a question about tuning. First off my setup. Hoyt CRX 32 at 67lbs with 29" draw, with trophyridge whisker biscuit. Shooting 28" cabelas stalker extreme carbon arrows. 65-80 shaft. and 100 gr three blade broadheads. I cant seem to get the broadheads and fieldpoints to group together. I had it paper tuned and then tried again. I know to move the rest toward the riser because my bh's are to the left of my fp's. It just moves both of them. They stay about 8 inches apart. shooting 10 and 20 yards. I called all the bow shops and seem to think all my arrow and setup is ok. my form isnt perfect but its fine. i dont get it. any help please. Feel free to ask questions.
I'm fairly new to bowhunting, but I had a similar issue. I simply tuned my bow to shoot field tips in the off season, then tune my bow to my specific broadheads. Thunderhead 100 grn. When the season comes in. After I set up my broadheads for the season I practice with two and hunt with four, in order to keep up with my practice and not to dull my hunting blades. I don't think you will get fixed blades and field tips to shoot the same, cause you just put 3 "wings" on the front of your arrow. Hope this helps and I'll be keeping up to see if anyone has more ideas. Just keep an eye on your form and practice at longer ranges, It has helped me a ton. Good luck and welcome to the site.
get rid of your fixed blade heads and get a mechanical. ive never shoot a mechanical that didnt shoot like a field tip.
Your arrow are too stiff for that set-up, thus the LEFT trend. I shoot those same arrows, but I kept them 1/2" longer than my DL, and tipped them out with 125gr tips. Those arrows actually are a touch stiffer than Beman ICS 340's, and having them cut and inch shorter than your DL will make a difference in the spine. Paper tuning is actually a "rough" tuning in comparison to BH's and if a bow is paper tuned but won't throw BH's worth a damn then the paper tune is essentially worthless. If you can get some inserts to put about 50gr up front on those arrows, that BH tuning will turn out a little better I'd bet. If you TUNE your bow to shoot BH's, in the end you'll find that you'll shoot FP's better as well. Mechanical BH's are a bit of a bandaid fix, to poor tuning in all honesty. If you've got enough energy and place the arrow where it needs to be, shouldn't be too much or a problem, but if you're shooting 27" and pulling 48#, and hit a shoulder blade, you just made that deer an ANTENNA, and not a good one!!! Learn how to BH tune your bow, and you'll elevate yourself to a higher level of archery....
Since your bow is set at 29" and your arrows are 28" don't you think that maybe your BH could be touching the table? Perhaps?
Poor tuning is no excuse to shoot expandables. If anything they should be better tuned in order to maximize energy efficiently on impact. Doug is spot on in his post. Those shafts are too stiff for that outfit. Put a heavier head on and/or increase the poundage and see what happens.
In a round about way you did say it, if your fixed heads don't hit exactly with your field tips your setup is not tuned perfectly. By saying shoot mechanicals or sight in for your fixed heads your saying close is good enough. They should have you on the right track, they both know there stuff and helped me with the same issue, good luck and don't give up!
Doug and Rob are right on. I can shoot my field point, fixed blade, and mechanical and they all group together. If you have your bow tuned to your field points and you change to BHs and they are way off, then I'm sorry but your tune isn't quite right. Don't take any of it personally, we've all been in your shoes. Take the advice of Doug and Rob.
If you stick around a while, you'll be bound to learn something EVEN WITH YOUR HEAD stuck all the way inside there!!! :D
Thanks for the advice. I am having the same issue. I was starting to think it was me. I'm gonna try adding weight to the front of my arrows and see how that works. Once again thanks for the advice.
Like Rob said. I'd be willing to bet if you bumped up your poundage a bit, you'd see them pull closer together.
If it were me, and you can handle the added draw weight, I'd try bumping up your poundage first. It's free, you don't have to mess with your arrows, and it can be easily reversed if you don't like the results. But by all means, don't over-bow yourself.
It's good that you know that! I usually try to buy my arrows a little longer than what I "think" I need. Just by like an inch or 2. It adds weight to the front and in my experience it seems a little easier to tune. It's also easier to cut an arrow down than it is to make it longer, lol
