Alright, so I somewhat understand broadhead tuning, and I've done it a little in the past with some success. However, I'm having a small issue right now. My old bow I had shooting dead on with my field tips. It was a Reflex Charger. My new bow is a 2010 Hoyt Turbohawk. I'm at a 29" draw, started at a 55lb draw weight. I'm shooting Easton Axis N-fused arrows cut to 30", tipped with a NAP Nitron. Also using a Ripcord Code Red. My broadheads originally started out way off from my FT's. Probably 18-24" difference. (BH's were low/left). I tweaked the rest up a couple times and got them on the same horizontal axis. I then tweaked my rest a few more times to the right to get them closer to my FT's. They were about 5" left of my FTs then, with no more room for adjustment. After I ran out of room for adjustment, I started slowly cranking up the DW, 1/2 turn of both bolts, then shot again. Not much of a difference, so I repeated. I repeated this until my bow was cranked all the way out, and my BHs and FTs are still about 3-4" apart. So what gives? Any suggestions? I went BACK to the left because by looking at my arrow once it was all the way to the right, it was crooked on the rest. It actually seemed to pull them a bit closer, but still not where I'm happy with them. I really don't want to buy new arrows, I JUST bought these. I really think the arrows aren't a problem anyways. I also don't THINK that I should need to go to 125gr heads. When I used OnTarget, it seemed like my arrow set up should be perfect.
What sort of tuning did you do with your bow/arrow setup while shooting field points? In my experiences my best luck with getting broadheads to fly true is to make sure I'm dead nuts on with my field points first. That includes walk-back tuning which usually takes care of any left/right issues. If I'm still experiencing up/down issues any moving my rest throws the arrow out of alignment (not crossing the middle of the berger button hole in the riser) then I move my nocking point. It's a PITA with tied-in loops, but usually works. Also, have you spin tested all of your arrows to verify the broadheads are spinning true?
Culprits in order of suspicion; -rest contact (make sure your rest is dropping before the fletchings get to it). -cam timing / cam lean (make sure your cam is in the proper rotation and that your limbs aren't twisting over during the draw cycle). -Nock pinch (be sure that your nock points aren't squeezing the arrow nock tightly at full draw.) - (I'm not going to list hand torque or arrow spine because it sounds like you know how to shoot and you've investigated the spine thoroughly.) When tuning the bow to the arrow spine (poundage adjustment) be sure to do it at the bow's center shot and look for your improvements there. The goal is to get the arrow to fly straight at center shot.
