Hello, I have been trying to broadhead tune recently with no success. Before I explain the situation I will explain my setup. I am shooting a Hoyt Defiant 30 with a draw length of 26.5" shooting (I believe 28") Maxima Red 350's at a chronographed 269 fps average. I am right in between 250-350 spine on the Carbon Express spine chart when using their calculated/adjusted draw weight I am using a Scott Exxus release shooting it as back tension. I have weighed all my arrows and there are no significant differences in weight. My broadheads have been weighed for consistency and I have spun them to check alignment, the broadheads I am shooting are QAD Exodus 100 grain, and NAP Killzones 100 grain. I paper tuned and I am getting bulletholes at 6ft and 15ft consistently with field points. I walkback tuned from 10-40 yards and centershot seems to be good and was even shooting at 98 yards with field points with perfect flight. I then put on the QAD's and shot through paper, knock right tear. They hit far left when shot at 20 yards, even my mechanical NAP killzones which I have had good results with prior setups with are flying high left and missing my rinehart 18-1 at 30 yards. My question is should I just go to a shop and have them reset my centershot and rest height? Does anyone have any ideas what may be causing this issue?
Whats your draw weight to be sure? if shooting 64 lbs or more the 350 should be fine on a 28 inch arrow. Also paper tune is a starting point and not always 100%. Broadhead tuning is when you adjust your setup so that your broadheads are hitting close to the field point. So shoot the broadhead then shoot the field point and adjust the rest accordingly to get the broadheads close to a field point. in this case you say you are hitting far left, move your rest in small increments to the right till your broadheads and field points are close. Try that and see if you can get them to line up. Whats your center shot now? On most hoyts 3/4 " was a good starting point.
i dont beleive in paper tune and never doing this with my bow....walk back to longer distance show you true center shot..first you make it with field point and then try broadheads...move slightly rest to correct broadheads to field point....but everithing on the bow must be tune before that...i usually shot my broadhead to 50 yards when i tune it.
Most likely your bow is out of tune.You can either spend time tuning it yourself or take it into a shop and have them reset your rest and nock height and give it a tuning. I like tuning my own stuff but if it's really bad I usually just take it to the shop and let them work they're magic.
Don't shoot your broad heads through paper. do your walk back tune then fine tune when actually shooting a field point or broad head. So walk back tune with field points then shoot a field point at 20 yards. leave it there then shoot a broad head or vice versa and then adjust the rest accordingly, but it's opposite so if you hit low move your rest slightly up little movements will go along ways. then shoot again and if they are both low now, but they are grouped together then move your sight if not keep doing the process until the arrows group together and then if they are off of the bulls eye then adjust the sight.
Broadheads hitting left is also a stiff spine indicator. Usually stiff spine isn't a problem with a compound bow and carbon arrows but anything is possible. If you make adjustments to the rest and both the field points and broadheads move equally and refuse to come together you could try a weaker spine shaft, same shaft cut a little longer or turn up your draw weight a few pounds. Try my suggestions only after a traditional broadhead tune fails to work.
This is kinda my method. I think I've paper tuned maybe twice. I bought a new bow in July and wound up paper tuning right off the bat. Started shooting darts with field tips. BHs still hit 6" right or left of FTs. Had a sharp string post in my cam and they sent new cams and strings so I had to change everything out 5 days before season opener. Never paper tuned. I got FTs where I wanted and then BH tuned in about 10-15 min. I figure if BHs and FTs hit the same I'm in pretty good tune. When I can get three different BHs to hit with FTs, it gives me the warm n fuzzies.
yes..this is also good method for tuning broadhead....trying couple diferent BH. and youl see where you are..
I ran into this with my Spyder 30 not to long ago. Had the limbs replaced & started my tuning process. I had the same issue as you. Be not real confident in the shop that replaced my limbs I took it to another shop & told them what was going on. He put it on the draw board & the lower cam hit about 1/4" before the top cam. Adjusted my the timing, shot through paper & had bullet holes. Came home started my broad head timing & had to move the rest 1/16". Now my fixed blades are stacking with my field point out to 65yrds. Take & have the bow looked over. Them same thing just happened with my Nitrium Turbo. Had the strings replaced & gave about 300 shots & the timing was off. Just got back with it & will start my timing process on it tomorrow.
Also if it's been papertuned. U don't need to move ur rest, from what I've been told by my proshoppers, for broadhead tuning, only way u have to move ur rest a little is if the bow hansnt been papertuned. If u move the rest to the left. As u draw ur bow back it's not straight all the way to where u draw. If u hit a game animal. The arrow is gonna hit the animal cricket instead of straight through. Id wait for a calm wind and shoot both the field point and ur broadhead at 10 yrs to see if they align. Most times it's the wind. Oh yes spin test ur arrows with broadheads and tips before shooting.
Paper tune you may have to move the rest after the paper tune a correctly tuned bow is when your broad heads and field tips group together and are sighted it not one or the other you will lose performance paper tune the bow then sight it in with field tips then go to 20 yards shoot the broad head then shoot the field tip change rest position according to opposite of the arrow of arrow is left move rest slightly very flighty right up and down are opposites also once the arrows group together then re sight in the bow without touching the rest this should solve your issue
It's pretty neat to see how people approach the tuning. I've always only paper tuned. After I paper tune, I do walk back, but don't recall ever having to make another adjustment.
I've almost stopped paper tuning and gone strictly to bare shaft tuning I've found it solves most problems almost instantly Dan
I never paper tune. I like to do a combo of walk back and bare shaft tuning. Usually after I bare shaft I don't have to make any adjustments when I screw a broadhead on. Often after paper tuning I would still have to broadhead tune. Some folks swear all they have to do is paper tune but it was always just a wasted step for me. So now I don't even bother.
So I have been trying to figure this out for a week or so. I can plug the Bullseye at 20 yards consistently. My broadheads are about 3" left and ½" higher. When I move my rest to the right (in very small increments) my broadheads are moving but my FPs are moving too. What am I missing?
Bareshaft tuning... will let you know if your shaft is the problem or your bow. A well made broadhead the same weight as your field point should fly the same if everything is right. But if you adjust your bow to cover a weak/stiff shaft you may upset the balance when you chance something on the shaft. That's one of the reasons so many people use mechanicals. If you can not group a bare shaft with a fletched shaft with field points at 20 yards then you have problems and moving your rest or sight pins to compensate is not the answer. Paper is good for wiping your butt, not for tuning a bow and shaft to each other. Just what I have learned in 40+ years flinging arrows with stick and string. The bow and shaft must be in balance with each other.
What this is telling you is that the nock end of your arrow is going to the right and low. That's how it would tear through paper and show as a bareshaft. First, set your rest back to centershot. Your hoyt needs to be yoke tuned to clean up the nock right condition (put twist in right yoke and out of left equally). Once you're hitting straight (maybe high or low), you should be able to adjust rest height to bring them to the same elevation. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
