http://discussions.texasbowhunter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87104 There is a link on the above forum to download a .pdf format of the Easton Bow Tuning Guide. I think anyone who shoots a bow should download / print the Easton Bow Tuning Guide and read it completely from cover to cover (it's really not that long). I keep a copy in a binder at home and refer to it often. Even if you end up taking it to a pro shop to have them tune your bow, it will give you a greater understanding of what adjustments will affect what. If you're confident enough to do the fine tuning yourself (maybe during the off season). You will learn exponentially. If you run into any problems you could always ask the very knowledgeable guys on here or other forums as well, but reading the guide should be a prerequisite first. Hope this helps... Good Luck!
Really Greg, in all honesty, the lasers really aren't even needed. I'll take a bow, eyeball it, and go from there, quick walk-back, then screw on the BH's and "fine tune" it to put 'em both on the mark.
I have a quick question for you all. After doing the walk back tuning my field points were dead on. I screwed a broadhead on and I was about 4 -6 inches to the right. At this point I am supposed to move my rest out away from the bow in small increments until it is hitting consistently, correct? By moving the rest should my field points still shoot accurately or will they be hitting left now? The desired result is for both the field points and broadheads to be hitting the same place. Just curious.
4-6" right at 20yds??? Shouldn't be quite that much, but it can be, move the rest a little, and shoot again, and yes when finished, you may have to re-sight your bow, but what you'll find out is that when finished you'll shoot BOTH FP's and BH's better than before.
OH if he is hitting that far right could it not be a spine issue with his arrow instead of a rest issue?
I've never ever shot a Muzzy but to say that's the problem here Is funny. It's definitely a minor adjustment elsewhere. It just takes some tinkering and hands on learning to figure It out. Good advice given here and once you figure It out It will make sense why your arrows were doing what they did. Experiences like this are good If you get the problem fixed. You learn something from It and can help the next person.
just an update if anyone cares... went to the proshop on friday and got some help with paper tuning. i was drilling bullet holes consistently. dialed her in at 20 yards with field points at the proshop. went to the outdoor range today and sighted her in with field points to 60 yards, shot great. then went to the broadhead target with my muzzies. made gang rig adjustments to the sight and was hitting a target the size of a coffee cup out to 60 yards. i can probably fine tune each individual pin a touch more, but i started getting very fatigued and called it a day. im pretty excited to hunt this weekend now that i have much more confidence in my bow. i did have one question. when i switched to broadheads, i started at 20 yards and adjusted the whole sight until i was on. then i moved back to 30-dead on, then 40-dead on, then 50-high left. adjusted it more until i was on, 60-dead on, then re-shot 20-40 and she seemed to be on. how come i was on out to 40 then 50 was so different?
No argument there....I'm just thinking if he can't get it to come together, we'll cross that bridge when we get to it.....
not all broad heads shoot like field tips, the RAGE i'm using though. Shot 3 arrows 2 with field tips and one with the practice tip. Shot the fletching right off of one of them..
The farther you shoot the more It will show If your bow/arrow marriage Is on. That's why It's Important to shoot at longer ranges when tuning your bow and arrows. Sounds as though your real close but something still might be a bit off. Good to hear though your getting It figured out.
Here is a thread on another site that OHbowhntr showed me you have to become a member of this website its free like Bowhunting.com but gives a great visual of moving the rest hope this helps http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=539460
With proper TUNING bow and arrow to head tuning (do a search on spin testing and proper spine), it CAN be achieved. I've shot many Robinhoods with FP's, but I won't DARE shoot two BH's at the same spot, when setting up for BH's, I shoot 2 shots at a time at 2 different spots. The only BH's I've broken in the last few years was showing a buddy how well the BH's would shoot after setting the bow up, and I busted on of the blades as well as cut half a blazer off the arrow when arrow 2 hit arrow one, incidentally, one of the BH's was still usable.... As to the RED, so are you saying the Rage opened up in flight and CUT a fletch off or the arrow hit and the fletch was knocked off when that happened???
