i am currently shooting muzzy 100 grain 3 blades and i cant seem to get consistent groups. i know my bow is tuned well, i had it professionally done, so i dont think that is the issue. any advice?
What are the groups doing? Did you get your bow tuned at a store like Bass Pro, Cabelas, etc or a smaller archery shop? Give us the info on your bow and arrows.
good point. they seem to be grouping low. i had it tuned at a very reputable local proshop. i am shooting a fredbear trx, 60 lb draw, 29.5", beman ics hunter 400's with blazer vanes.
I assume you mean they are grouping lower then your field points? If so you should lower your knocking point. Its where I would start.
Moving the peep would really depend on how big of a knock adjustment you have to make. I'm not 100% sure on this one, but I believe you can also raise your rest. The problem is the arrow isn't coming off the bow level, so when you put a broadhead on the end it magnified this error. You can move your sight, but it won't fix the problem. If the arrow isn't coming off the string right then you are losing KE.
gotcha, i'll see what i can do, and i'll probably go to the proshop this weekend too and see if they can help me out. thanks for the info!
GABowhunter gave you some great advice. I'm going to throw out a few more variables to look at. A fixed blade broadhead is going to bring out any little problem with your shooting, your tuning and your arrows. This is actually good because you can't fix a problem until you know it exists. If you're getting groups consistently low, that's a fairly easy thing to work on. However, if you have trouble getting tight groups in any particular spot, that's likely to be your shooting form or your arrows may be funky. It's easy to check the arrows... mark your arrows so you know one from another. I have had certain arrows that otherwise appear to be fine... but they simply will not group with the others with a broadhead on it. Maybe it's a factory defect, or the insert is slightly off.. or who knows. I just keep them out of the hunting quiver. Shooting form is the tough one. Don't punch the release, open grip on the bow handle, blah.. blah.. blah. But often, this is the real culprit with poor groups. (trust me... I know!)
To really TUNE a bow, you need to have the bow in YOUR hand and YOU be shooting it. Probably the rest needs to come up just a tiny bit, adjust it UP just a very small bit, and retry. Just because SOMEONE else shot the bow don't mean that it's tuned, and paper-tuning doesn't necessarily mean "TUNED." I've seen and heard MANY guys who "thought" their bow was tuned because it was paper-tuned, but then it wouldn't put BH's and FP's on the same spot. That graph from Easton tuning guide is a GREAT visual for guys who don't know exactly what to do when trying to set a bow up. You really don't NEED a "professional" tuner, you CAN do it yourself, and it will turn out better because it will be tuned to your grip and release, not someone else's. If you find some inconsistency in the BH's themselves, 2 shoot well, but the 3rd doesn't, then you've found why MANY guys won't buy muzzy's anymore because their seem to be a bit inconsistent over the last 5 or so years.
All great advice. The first thing I would do is shoot mtg field points then shhot your broadheads make sure they are the same gr. If they are shooting different try a different braid headif you can. Or have a shop help you tune your bow to what you are using and you.
I had the same problem with Muzzy 100 grain 3 blades and Muzzy MX-3 100 grain 3 blades. They both gave me problems flying all over the place. I had Cabelas, a pro shop, and myself tune my bow. Still same problems. I switched to a G5 T3 broadhead and BAMB! Right on the money everytime! They fly perfectly just like my field points. I since have stopped using my Muzzy's and will be using G5's from now on. Hope that helps.
The Service Engine Soon light comes on in my truck. If I tip my steering wheel just so... I can't see it. It certainly doesn't fix the underlying problem... but I don't notice it as much. The problem is, sooner or later, if I pretend there's no problem, it's going to come back and bite me in the ass. Switching to a mechanical to because you're bow is poorly tuned or you have a shooting form problem is THE WORST REASON TO USE A MECHANICAL. I can't stress that enough. Seriously.
I tuned my crappy bow by myself for years and got those Muzzy's shooting just fine. If your arrows/broadheads are tuned to your bow those Muzzys will shoot like darts.
It would not fix your problem. It might hit with your field point, but your arrow would still be losing KE. Switching to a mechanical or moving your sight is just a band aide to the real problem. Christine uses a great analogy in her post.
X 2. Or really... X dozens of Muzzys I've shot over the last five years that I've tuned right with my field points.
That right there is never what it seems to be i have found. Moving your nock point will correct the problem, moving your sights will hide it, and it will rear its ugly head at different distances
As OHBowhunter alluded to; a shop can't tune your bow for you, you have to do it yourself. It's the entire broadhead / arrow / bow / archer system that has to be in tune. A shop can course tune your equipment and get it close but you have to be shooting it to fine tune the system. Paper tuning it is course or roughing it in. Broadhead tuning is fine tuning. Make the adjustments that GA suggested. A properly tuned bow will shoot any aligned broadhead as straight as a field point. It's just a matter of getting things properly tuned.
I'll reiterate what the others have said because it's been a minor pet peeve of mine in the archery world as well. Case in point: our church youth pastor brought his bow to my house last night after he'd had a new string put on... I broke out my laser and levels and I had his bow set up EXACTLY square and parellel as a STARTING POINT... it would have done me no good to go outside and tune the bow FOR HIM any further beyond that. I sent him home with the bow lasered and leveled, and a couple links to broadhead-tuning waiting for him in his e-mail inbox when he got home.
