It's my first bow so I really don't know much. I brought it to a pro shop and he said that I needed to use expandables because the arrow is so close to the bow. Tomorrow I'll post a pic of a knocked target arrow. Maybe then you can see it better.
Nothing about this makes sense from the info provided IMO. Perhaps a longer arrow would get the BH away from the bow? If anything I would presume the opposite of what that guy told you would be true. Older bow typically is slower which would mean a fixed blade very well could be better to increase the chance of pass throughs. .
Where's the smiley slapping his forehead? Exactly why most "pro" shops aren't... if you know what I mean. If I were to lean ANY way in the age of a bow being a determining factor in shooting a fixed or a mech (which it has NOTHING to do with anything...), I'd lean AGAINST shooting a mech out of it -- simply because if it's REALLY "older" it may not produce a requisite amount of kinetic energy to deploy properly and produce a pass-through... There's too many idiots working in bow shops.
Sorry Brad... didn't read your response before I went off on my tirade; I just immediately shook my head and started venting.
Same old 100 grain Wal-Mart broadheads. I'm not sure what the name is, but they're blue with a black tip. Maybe someone else uses them or knows the name of them? Anyway, that's about all I've ever used, but I do expect to start using 100 grain muzzy broadheads next season.
NAP Nitron. I got to witness first hand what these little dudes were capable of last year, and I was sold. I want to shoot an animal with the Spitfire Maxx as well. Also, a spear.
I shot a 2-blade Rage two years ago and last year was impressed with the Rocket Meat Seeker 2-blade. I think I will be sticking with the Meat Seeker, but am interested in taking a look at the NAP line as well.
Yeah, you don't have to shoot expandables. If its an older slower bow you should probably shoot a cut on contact head. Unless you are shooting a heavy arrow a lot of the energy is used up on expanding the head instead of cutting and that even has its limitations. A cut on contact does just what it says. It starts cutting on contact and the less blades you have the less resistance so you get deeper penitration. As far as a fixxed blade not clearing it sounds like the rest and knocking point need to be moved up. My first bow was last season and it was a 1991 Bear Black panther. I moved my rest and knocking point up and it held fixed blad with 1-1/4" cutting diameter just fine. One more thing, You should probably find you a different pro shop.
Sounds like the Real Tree brand. It looks like a good head in the pack hanging on the peg. I think thats what my brother had screwed in when he took his first archery deer last season. It left a decent blood trail and he droped about 75yd out. It was a marginal shot at best.
going to try out the G5 T3 this year. so far the practice tips (just blades) are going very well with my set up that i had to hardly make any adjustment at all.