Ok, so I am brand new to bow hunting, so I'm full of questions, and full of I don't knows, which will probably turn into questions, lol. Soooo, I got screwed over and tricked into buying a Hoyt UltraMag. Long story short, I was told it was a 2009 from an online seller, bought it, found out it's a 2005. It is supposedly a pretty descent bow though, so it will work for me to get into the sport. Anyway, so the bow came with a quiver, sight, look, peep, and whisker biscuit...my questions is, the sight has a crack in the base of it...on the edge. Not near the level, or optics, just on the circle around it. Is this detrimental to the sights?? The other thing is, IF I have to buy a new sight, do they come in left and right hand, or are they all universal? Btw, I'm a lefty. I have to get a release. My father-in-law says to get a goose....any of them. So, does a release really matter for hunting? I mean, are they all the same?? What type of arrows should I go with? Which broad heads? I'm sure there are 10million things I don't know and have no idea to ask, but I'm sure they will come along lol. Thanks
Your sight should be fine if the optics havent been ruined, and yes there are left and right handed sights. No not ever release is the same different trigger travels in them and just the overall feel of them can be different, i would recommend trying a bunch of different releases at your shop if you can. If you dont mind telling me did he just rape you on the price of the bow too? And welcome to the sight and sport!
A release is better because it spreads the let-off weight over a bigger area than just a few fingers, IMO. And releases are the same as far the idea, but not the same in the actual action. As far as arrows, what's your draw weight and draw length?
The draw length is in the correct range. Depending on the limbs you have the draw weight is correct. Most xt2000 limbs included with on your bow were 60-70# limbs. (don't quote me on that) To make sure that you have the exact length in mind, cross-reference the letter marked on your cams with this: http://www.hoyt.com/assets/tune_charts/UltraMagXT2000_2005_New.pdf To see exactly where the markings will be and if you don't have a general manual already, here: http://www.hoyt.com/assets/downloads/manuals/2005_Compound_Manual.pdf
wow, thanks for the links. however, I have no clue what all that means, lol. I only know my DL and DW because the guy at the local archery shop here told me that...
Oh! Well then...that makes it easier for you as far as picking arrows. I have these (see below), but check with the guy at your LBS as far as suggestions. And try not to get "sold" on the best arrows if he/she tries to, It's always best to do research and find value or what works for your money. http://www.cabelas.com/product/Hunting/Archery/Arrows-Shafts/Carbon%7C/pc/104791680/c/104693580/sc/104192280/i/103856580/Cabelas-Stalker-Extreme-Shafts/1354186.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Fhunting-archery-arrows-shafts-carbon%2F_%2FN-1100022%2FNs-CATEGORY_SEQ_103856580%3FWTz_l%3DSBC%253BMMcat104791680%253Bcat104693580%253Bcat104192280&WTz_l=SBC%3BMMcat104791680%3Bcat104693580%3Bcat104192280%3Bcat103856580
Lefty, if you bowl or always wondered why people with custom bowling balls roll so well, then you will understand the importance of custom fitted equipment and practice. You may save a few bucks at a big box store, but you should use a pro shop for selecting something as important as a release. A good pro will watch you draw and ensure the bow is set up to match your your body. From there, you should find a range and ask questions from guys who know what they are doing.
Thanks for the help guys. Going this weekend to get some things. Probably going to get the Goose release, since my father-in-law lives by them, lol. Gonna just ask the guys at the shop to show me a few arrows, and I will probably get fixed broadheads...I'll learn by trial and error for the most part...
I just thought of something else too...my bow doesn't have a stabilizer. I have heard that I don't need one for it, and heard that I do....I just want your opinions as well....what do you guys think?
Stabilizers more or less reduce shock from the shot, but can also help balance the for/aft weight of the bow. As for a release, try some of the tru-fires out.
And please make sure ur trial and errors are on the practice range or block. Please don't feel pressured to go in the woods hunting until ur confident and sure ur ready.
definitely, I have been shooting. I wasn't referring to "trial and error" in a safety manner...was referring to when to grunt, blow, move, sit still, draw, don't draw etc....just the "art" of hunting more or less, lol
Ahhh...another question. I have an older side-by-side, or a UTV, Kawi Mule. Thinking about getting a 4wheeler, and just been looking. Looked at the Polaris Sportsman, Honda Rancher/Ricon/ Yamaha Grizzly/Big Bear...you get the picture. I have looked at everything, lol. Question is, what do you guys ride, and suggest IF I decide to get one. I have a buddy that is a sales manager at a dealership here, and told me that a 2wheel drive 250 is all I would need....said he hasn't ever been anywhere hunting that he needed anything bigger than that, and said it has pulled everything he has ever shot out of the woods...I'm not so sure about that. He said he would gladly sale me a 400/500/600 4wheel drive, or whatever I wanted if I wanted one from them, but just said it would be a waste of money. Would a little 250 2wheel drive really be enough???
I had an old Yamaha two wheel drive 250, and I never NEEDED something bigger. I definitely needed 4x4 though, especially in the snow. Now I have a 2009 Polaris Sportsman 800, and I love that thing. I can honestly say it has more power than I use hunting, but I will use it hauling a trailer loaded with wood, too. That thing is fast too, I have done 65 on it
Yea, I mean I will ride it out of season of course, but I won't be finding as many mud holes as possible to run through. Won't be doing any mudriding, lol
Well im sure a 250 would do good for you then, but from my experience we do have a Honda Rubicon, Polaris Sportman 850 XP, they are nice to have since i use them quiet a bit for hauling stuff on are property. The polaris is perfect just because cutting trees down and dragging them out it doesnt have an issue at all, that thing is pretty much a tank. It has plenty of HP and the hand warmers, power steering, and winch are nice to have. You say you wont find any mud holes but im sure you will its a little to hard to resist haha. I would rather have more power than not enough because when you need the power its there and if you have one that doesnt have the power its a little harder to do the job then. Not saying you need a 850 at all because im sure a 500 would do good for you, are rubicon has yet to let us down. So if you dont want to go to big a 500 would be perfect but you can never have to much power!
lol...oh I assure you...I have had my share of finding mudholes and tearing a lot of equipment up...including a Toyota 4Runner, lol...haven't been in a mudhole since. As I have gotten older, I have realized, money spends a lot faster fixing 4wheelers, and replacing engines, lol
and told me that a 2wheel drive 250 is all I would need....said he hasn't ever been anywhere hunting that he needed anything bigger than that, and said it has pulled everything he has ever shot out of the woods...I'm not so sure about that. *He said he would gladly sale me a 400/500/600 4wheel drive well if you are in any area with mountains, hills, mud or plan on pulling anything significant than 250 2wd is not for you. I rode a honda 250cc when i was 12yrs old they are little and bigginer like. My father just sold his Polaris Sportsman for a Yamaha Grizzley because of the non belt driven. brand wize personal preffrence but size at lease a 500cc for segnificant power and capabilitys. sorry about spelling but hey.