should a bow sight pins line up with the string and rest for center shot? I have a bolt on laser alinement tool when attached it lines up with the string and rest but not with the sights. What are they suppose to do? Any help Rick
None of my six bows have the sight pins aligned with the string. All six have the sight pins just left of the string when looking at the bow from the rear. Most of the bows I set up for guys, all makes and models this is usually the case as well. Where do your pins line up bowhunter027?
Mine's to the right of the string... but then I'm left handed. Kendall's are to the right of the string and he's right handed. Then again, neither of us are using a peep so it probably doesn't matter.
I shoot a 2004 Reflex Timberwolf. I just got it out, after 2 years off. first 3 shoots wint to the left, so I looked over the bow to see what has changed. 1. the string streched enough to rotate my peep half out, my bow timming is at it's limit line on both cams. So I was thinking the bow went out of tune and or time because of string stretch. But when I turn the lazer to the sights the pins 1/8 to the left of the string, it's a righthanded bow. This could also be do to the fact that my 2 yrs off that I lost most of my forum, and I'm twisting my handle, or droping my bow hand. Rick
We still don't have the perfect bow. There is cam lean that could be caused from imperfect axle location or twisting of the limbs or twisting of the riser at full draw from limb/cam torque or torque caused by the cable guard or the fact that your buss cable(s) and the string doesn't run perfectly centered over the cam(s) or twisting of the grip in your hand at full draw. Even crossbows have the same issues and they are much more stable dimensionally (because of the shorter distances i.e. length of limbs and stoutness of the "riser"). My Truth is shooting bullet holes and the Stinger broadheads I use hit in exactly the same hole as the combo-points...and my sights are a tad left of the string at rest (right-handed bow). When you come up with the answers to all of these questions, I'll buy stock in your archery company. It's a sure bet you'll be a millionare!
Center shot is the power path of the string. It doesn't have anything to do with the sight. I set up centershot without the sight on the bow. Then I shoot through paper to check things so, even at that point, I am not aiming with my sight yet. After paper I start adjusting my sight to arrow impact. I don't know which side of the string my pins are or whether they are in line with it. Doesn't matter. What matters is having my arrow leave my bow correctly. They do that.
I can't answer that LOL. Like I said, in the whole scheme of things it doesn't matter to me, that is why I couldn't tell you if my pins are left, right or aligned. I don't check that.
O.K. GMMAT, I put my lazer alignment tool on where my sights screw on to the riser I adjusted it to follow the string cam to cam. Then I turned the lazer to the limb pockets, what I found out is that my string is not in the center of the limbs or riser. The string is just to the right of center. So that might explaine why my sights are just to the left of the string? Rick
Is there a bow made that the string is in true CL so the string, rest and arrow are in true center shot? If so then the sights should be also..Any string variance left or right will have to be off set with the sights.
Maybe I should restate my question. "If the cl of the string is my starting point, and center my rest off the cl of the string, then fine adjust the rest so the cl of the arrow stays in the cl of the string." Should my sifgts be in cl of the string?
have you heard of the "bow lab" http://scientificarchery.com/ I found this yesterday. Could this is be the new way to set up a bow?
I don't understand "why" it is, but it is. Honestly, I was actually a little shocked that it was, once I got done fine tuning. My 2 backup bows are older (2001 & 2002), and on both of them my pins line up with the string directly. I know my bow is very well tuned (it shoots bare shafts, fp's, and bh's in the same spot), and my arrows are correctly spined. (340's - 29/65 - 28.5" arrow). A couple of my buddies have the same situation, and all seem to be on bows around 2007 or newer. I don't have an answer, but I'm not complaining - it shoots better than I can.
Okay Jeff, I'll bite. Explain why you think that the majority of right handed shooters with the pins just left of the string are all using incorrect spined arrows according to Jeff. Also, explain your theory of the archers paradox as it pertains to release shooters and shoot through or drop away rests.
If a compound bow shot with a release through a shoot through rest or drop away, has absolute true center shot, do you think the archers paradox comes into play? It cannot, an arrow shot from this bow occelates up and down, NOT left and right as your traditional bow does or any finger bow shot from shelf. Your "theory" has all six of my bows set up incorrectly for spine with several different arrows spec'd specifically for my needs by RJ.
I have a theory .... a human cannot hold a bow perfectly square ....between your hand and the grib, both of which are not prefectly square, are put under tension on the draw and the tension is released ... I am guessing that is why ....also consider your release arm and the release ...does it let go "perfectly" .....i think not ,,,, the only way to test my theory would be with a machine that held, pulled, and released the bow perfectly square .... another thought .... does it matter?:D I know you need to know ... its all good
Jeff - It all boils down to horizontal nock travel. This can be induced by several things, including torque on the bow based on how a right handed shooter holds it while under load, torque induced by a cable guard, or roller guard, cam lean/limb twist, etc, etc. In addition to this, by design not all bows have the string path/center of riser on the same plane. In theory, to completely 100% avoid this you would need some sort of shoot through cable system to eliminate the cable/roller guard, dial out all cam lean/limb twist at static and full draw, most likely a shoot through type riser (like the Ultra/Pro/Vantage elite Hoyt's), and a machine to shoot it out of like a Hooter Shooter to eliminate the torque induced by how one holds the bow being a righty/lefty shooter. In other words.......you would have to use a very impractical setup and a machine shooting to completely eliminate it. Just MHO.
