So I took my bow to gander mountain to shoot. I was getting bad groupings, and I could tell something was off. I went to ask about a bow tune up. The guy( who I trust) took one look and said the timing was not even close, I desperately needed new strings and a few other things. I decided to do the best tune up they had for 60 bucks, and new vapor trail strings. Costs about160 total. My question is, will I be able to feel a big difference? How much would my timing being that far off effect the feel of my bow? I know accuracy will be back but I was wondering about if it will be smoother, quieter? Anything like that? I have a 70# Hoyt superhawk.
Depends what you had for old strings. If they were old Fuse strings that Hoyt used to supply a few years ago then you're going to see less creep, less peep rotation and maybe a touch more speed (but not enough that you'll notice). By the "timing being off" it depends if he was talking about the actual timing between the cams (which a cam +1/2 doesn't really have) or if he was talking about the cam rotation. Getting the rotation back in spec will make a large difference in how efficiently the bow transfers energy and how easily it tunes. Don't expect huge differences. Expect it to be like it was when it was new though.
Great words from Rob. I would also suggest looking up the specs on your bow and measuring ATA and Brace height. I see so many shops anymore throw strings on a bow and say "here you go!". At our shop bows are always assembled, spec'd, shot 20 times, spec'd, and then shot by customer. With a follow up tuning after another 100 arrows. 2009 Hoyt Super Hawk ATA: 32" Brace Height: 7.5"
That is some good advice BC! I hadn't really thought to check my specs after getting new strings and such. Thanks!
Thanks guys, I know my question sounded like a newb but I was really curious about it because I didn't get this bow new so I never got to feel it when it was in spec. I traded my Pse Stinger for this Hoyt Super Hawk. Great trade, the guy couldn't draw back a 70# and my stinger's draw was at 60# and I wanted more lol. Anyway, so I dont know what it feels like and I was curious how having it tuned would effect how it feels. Thanks. And btw I think he was referring to the the cams not being synced and also the string was touching the string stopper when not drawn. So everything was out of whack. Btw, when I bought the bow I took it to gander to get a sight and new peep and rest and had the guy adjust draw length. The guy who did it didn't seem to know what he was doing. He didnt get something in the cam tightened back up all the way and it came loose and was making a loud noise when I was shooting, I had him fix it but I dont think he realized he had messed up the timing when he did it. So I think that guy got it messed up, I told gander this when I took my bow yesterday and they said that guy was just fired because he didn't know what he was doing and they said they were sorry for the inconvienience but they couldnt give me any discount even though it was their fault. Oh well, I needed new strings anyway so they would have had to service the bow anyway. With the bow tune package I got that was 60$ they take everything apart, grease it up, check everything, put it back together, get it to spec, check everything again, then when they have the bow all back together and adjusted everything they take it and chrono it, and paper tune it for you. This package costs 10$ more than the tune that just checks everything so I thought I got a good deal.
Very true. What should I look at to make sure? I trust the guy thats doing the tune up, he knows a lot and I know he won't be finished until its perfect.
Sorry for the late update, I got the bow back. It's incredible how much better it is. I have my great groupings back! Shoots smooth and quiet.
Its amazing how a tuned and set to spec bow shoots isnt it .....:D......I set them up for customers all the time and they walk away with a smile on there face .
Paper tuning is something that needs to be done with the hands that will shoot the bow. Irregardless, shoot the bow, zero a pin at 20yds, and then walk it back shooting again at 25, 30, 35, and 40 using the same pin, see with way you trend as you drop, if you trend left, move the rest to the right about 1/16, if you trend right, move the rest to the left about 1/16" and repeat. Once you drop in a straight line, put on some broadheads, spin test the arrows to make sure they spin true, and broadhead tune the bow. Here's a GREAT LINK on BH tuning... http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=539460 The link has well of 100K views and for VERY GOOD REASON!!! Also, after BH tuning your bow, you'll find that you'll shoot FP's a little better as well.
