For those that have done both.... When doing a walk back BH tune to get the rest zeroed in just right, have you found it necessary to paper tube before or after? I'm driving back to KY this weekend to get the bow dialed in and am not certain where I have stored away my frame for paper tuning. Don't want to go on a treasure hunt or build a new one if walk back tuning kind of replaces the need for it anyway.
To me, and this is just me. Its all about the end game. So for bow hunting it's broad heads. And personally I don't paper tune anymore.
That's kind of what I figured... Just wondered if paper tuning got it so close that BH tuning was a faster process w minor tweaks. My rest is on from last year but I moved it slightly for better clearance on the drop away part meaning ill prob have to tweak it somewhat.
Walkback/BH tune will be fine. It's all I've done for years. Paper will pick up on other items as well (cam lean, spine issues, contact, knock height, etc), but imho, if you're in a pinch and you know you're BH tuned and you have verified center shot with walk back, you shouldn't worry. I've been talking to Tfox about this a lot recently, and I'm still going to give paper a go to verify a few things, and while I can make adjustments to draw weight, spine, etc., if you don't have a yoke system, you can't really do much for cam lean (which would be my main concern at this point in my tuning). Give modified french tuning a try in place of walk back. It's quicker and requires less space.
Paper tuning is usually the beginning part of the process for me. Just to confirm that everything I've eyeballed is correct. Once I walkback tune and/or bareshaft tune I'm done.
I paper tune every bow I set up to see initial arrow flight. Then it's a walk back tune and if needed, BH tuning. At that point, very little needs to be done. SCFox
I was going to paper tune soon also, then once my new BH's come in shoot and see how they fly. If I need to I will BH tune, but just out of curiosity at what distances do most of you do this at?
If you set the rest via french or walk back correctly and the spine is correct, broadheads should be with field points. You should not have to adjust the rest once the correct center is set. Some can't shoot well enough to dial it in perfectly without a broadhead screwed on. If your paper isn't good after center is set, you need to adjust the yokes to clean up the tear. I would be happy to look at it for you but I'm going to louisville and won't be back until Sunday.
Thanks for the advice fellas. I'm going to go ahead and throw this out there, I am NOT a target archer. At all lol. I make up for it by somehow never getting rattled when it comes time for a shot while hunting. I come unglued afterwards, but leading up to a shot it's like i'm just staring at a target still. If I'm throwing decent BH groups out to 50-60 I am perfectly content. I've always been one to focus WAY more on the hunting aspect than the archery aspect, but having tweaked my rest ( had clearance issues on the dropper arm so I centered it in the "cage" then moved the cage back over to compensate... It SHOULD be fine, but switching back to fixed blades for the first time in like 5 years... I feel like a fish out of water. I'll walk back tune it and go from there, but again if I'm hitting a cantaloupe at 50-60 with a Slick Trick on the front, I could care less about cam lean and all the other topics I don't know much about. I'll follow up next week with results. Hopefully good ones.
Paper is important with fixed blade heads..... cleaner arrow flight means less chance for the broadhead to take over and steer the arrow instead of the fletching. (When you happen to torque the bow or the wind is heavier) In most cases broadhead tuning is sufficient but there are times when things get out of sync that you develop an arrow kick which can cause issues at that critical time. Paper is much more critical for low energy setups to achieve a passthrough. The key is to get a properly tuned bow that shoots good through paper, not to detune a bow to get a clean tear in paper.
