Hi everyone, Im not completely new to traditional archery but I am in need of a refresher. I grew up in MT and rifle hunted all through high school. (Never bow hunted big game, just squirrels and varmints) I got into traditional archery for a few years before I joined the Navy. Now Im active duty stationed out in VA. I really miss hunting, (been about 8 years) so I figured I'd dig out my old recurve and give it a try this year. My bow is a Ben Pearson Golden Knight, 45# 60''. I don't have any arrows or any gear anymore, my brother brought it to me when he drove out to visit a while back. Almost everyone I know around here shoots a compound. I know recurves are a lot slower, but Im pretty sure it can kill the baby deer around here. I just need to get pointed in the right direction with a few things: Can anyone suggest a good setup i.e. broad heads and arrows? Could I use carbon arrows if I had the right spine and grain worked out? Good gear and maybe tactics? In MT I had always moved around and never stand hunted, like is common out here. Finally, I have heard rumor there are elk here in VA. Does anyone know the deal with that? I would love a chance to chase down an elk this fall. Any pointers at all are welcomed. Thanks guys I know thats a lot to ask coming from a new guy. LFE
Welcome to the site! I have never shot a Recurve, but some guys here have. Hope you have a good season!
looking for someone who has the TAP program Im new to this sight and I like everything so far. Im looking for someone who may have the TAP program. Ive been shooting for three years and would like to see if Im shooting the right arrow. I don't see that I have any major problems just looking to improve my shooting. I don't have anyone to talk bow with, people think I take it too serious, like im a freak. I just love it. Anyway Im shooting a Techunter Exterminator Pro 60# 29" draw. My arrows are carbon express mayhem 250 with blazers cut at 27 1/8 to bottom of nock. I forget the GPI. Could someone run this through TAP. I just discovered the program but not ready to invest.
I'd go with a .500 carbon..plenty to choose from. Carbon Express Heritage 150, GoldTip 3555, Beman 500's. Leave full-length and cut to tune. A 125gr Magnus Stinger or other 2 blade head on the tip would work fine
Thanks for the help! I checked out the heritage series. According the sizing chart Im right on the edge between a Heritage 90 (28'' 45#) and 150 (29"45# or 28'' 46#). Im about 5'10'' and my draw used to be about 28''. Would it be better to go with the heavier or lighter arrow? Also Ill be picking up some Magnus Stinger four blades for hunting.
Took the words right out of mouth, Magnus Stingers are great broadheads. I would go with the heavier arrow 100% of the time. Speed is the sexy thing in archery right now, but you will get more penetration and more kinetic energy from a heavier, slower arrow with all other things being equal. I think faster, lighter arrows have their place in 3D competitions and when having to take long shots, but with you shooting a recurve I doubt you will be shooting past 20 or so yards so the heavier arrow is the way to go.
How far from DC are you? I'm moving to Maryland in a few months a will only be about 30 min. away and would more than happy to help you out. Take a look at Gold Tip Traditional carbons. They are fairly heavy and extremely durable. I would recommend those in 35/55 and around 150gr broad head like the Magnus Stinger. This is the same setup I shoot.
There are plenty of choices for carbon arrows to use with trad gear. I used Easton full metal jackets with a Black Widow recurve. Approx 650 gr. using a 200gr. VPA broadhead and a 50 gr. insert. 60# @ 30".
Sounds like a real good starting point. Leave the arrows full length to begin with and see how they work for you.. Some of the carbons that I have tested tend to be stiffer than stated and everyone is a little different in their shooting style. If you can find someone living close by you may be able to try some different arrows before investing money in the wrong ones. woodsman
Personally four blade straight. The bleeder blades are small enough that they won't hinder penetration and yet they will help make a better wound channel. As for straight vs serrated it all up to you. I don't feel either one has any advantage over the other. I like straight simply because I've cut myself enough times to know how bad a clean cut is and how hard it is to close up. Aside from that it's all personal preference and speculation. What I do know is that Magnus makes a quality product and that all variations of the stinger head will kill deer.
I shoot 50#@28". Gold Tip 35/55 with a 100 grain brass insert and 125 gr broadhead(mostly for hogs). Generally, if two spines should work with your set-up go with the lighter spine. Start with a full length arrow and see how that flies before having it cut. I wouldn't worry too much about total arrow weight unless you are hunting truly big game(elk, big bears,etc). Good arrow flight is the most important thing (besides a sharp broadhead).
Ok so shoot them full length, I think like 31''. What would indicate I need to shorten them? I was planning on trying to shoot without fletchings at first and get them flying decent. Then fletch with 5'' turkey feathers. I will be trying different grain field points, then once I know which flys the best using that same grain in a broad head for hunting. Sound like a plan?
I would recommend just cutting them an inch longer than your draw from the start. Then shoot some different weight tips to see what you like. Definitely use the same weight broadhead and you should be good to go!
Victoryhunter, I was wrong, my arrows are 33''. After watching some youtube videos I took some bare shaft shots at 6'. My arrows were pointing left, indicating too weak of spine. I used 100 and 125 grain tips, which is what I'd like to hunt with. I think Ill just get them cut down to about 29''-30'' and try to use the same weight tips again. What length arrows do you shoot?
I would start with the arrows full length for a number of reasons and you can't put it back on once it's cut off. Your arrows "pointing to the left" does not automatically mean your spine is weak. You need to find YOUR draw length. My arrows are longer than they need to be due to my shooting style.. When tuning my bow I use an un-fletched arrow and a fletched arrow. I don't care which way they "point" the material you're shooting into will have a major effect on that. When both arrows impact at the same place both left/right and up/down I'm very happy.. This is the method I've used for over 40 years and it's worked very well for a hunting bow set-up. woodsman
Good thread, I still have a few 2117s left over from the stone ages but need to upgrade to carbon, what about the beman ICS hunters 400 for a recurve at 50lb draw weight.
