Discussion in 'Bowhunting Talk' started by Freeburn6, Apr 21, 2015.
Thank you kurveball18 that helped me understand a lot better
If you can go and try some pse bows and compare them to what you have aleady tried.
There's only 2 models of pse at the one shop I go to and the other shop doesn't carry them at all. But I will definitely check out what they have, people on here seem to really keep their bow company's close to their heart it seems !
the charger is a great bow, the accessories that come in the package aren't the best but not the worst also
I see you have a Hoyt charger ! Can you tell me about to like your personal likes and dislikes !? And yes I understand the accessories won't be the best but I feel the package would be easier to help me get started in shooting a bow.
Very smooth drawing bow (about as smooth as the z5 cam and smoother than turbo), it is faster than most at the price point (325 fps), has a smaller brace height but is still forgiving, a negative for you might be the adjustability because it is like most high end bows where the limbs are adjustable for 10 pounds and the cams only a couple inches. The accessory package isn't bad and it performs as good as bows twice its price
I was thinking about the 50-60 pound draw weight likely for deer hunting , what's bad about the 10 pound adjustability for me?!
I agree with bigfootcali I started with a PSE Brute my son uses it now it was very solid almost no creep the one thing I can offer as advice most of your PSE ready to hunt packages come fully set up just add Arrows and Broadheads and have the shop fit it to you. I'm not sure of you strength level so i can't accurately guess your draw weight, but i would get a 60 lb you can adjust back to 50 that way you can build into it if you want. You are in the right place for help on this forum lts full of knowledgable folks. Welcome to the brotherhood!!!
Yes I will for surely be looking at what PSE has to offer the next time I'm by the shop ! A few people I know also told me to check out bear archery packages for my first bow. They said they were good and won't break the bank and as I'm young the Hoyt's and bowtech bows are pushing it for me having no experience, should I buy a cheaper but still good bow and just get better accessories ?! Sorry for all the questions ! Thanks
Bear PSE and Hoyt all usually set their bows up with quality accessories maybe not to of the line but it will do until you decide whether you want to upgrade
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have the Charger also.... great little bow... shot it and a bunch of others... best draw and backwall came down to 3 bows, the Charger, the Nitrum, and a Prime bow... they all three felt the same draw to me... then came price... same draw feel, only a few fps slower, and half the price... took the Charger ... dislikes??? none so far but only owned it for 2 months so far
For starting out like would recommend the stinger x it's got a wide range of adjustability it will grow with you and the whole package won't break the bank and you'll be pretty impressed with the bow. If you want more info on pse bows go to there web site and check em out. Before I got my second pse the drive I looked at everything from Matthews, prime, bear, hoyt and so on tried quite a few but nothing felt as good as pse jusy my opinion and I really was looking into bear but couldn't get over the feel of pse.
There's so many options out there, thanks for all the help guys. My cousin is letting me borrow his bear now package that he started out with a few years ago to start shooting a bow and to get some practise so I don't look like a goof going to the shops testing out bows, my cousin said I should go with a whisker biscuit instead of a drop away rest for ease of use does that sound about right ?
Do you guys have any suggestions on Arrows or sites or anything for a a beginner ?!
first off im not a bow expert, im just getting into it like you so im sure some of my assumptions could be wrong but heres how i understand things so far..(gotta do some research bud...) theres a site, i dont know off the top of my head, similar to archery university or something, that has countless tools and definitions and explanations about everything archery that probably wont answer person specific things but will help you understand all the terms and definitions of what you're bound to hear, here and other places...
good to learn...
back wall is where the cam(s) stop rotating, the point from where they opperate the most efficiently, set to where your anchor point is, which will be determined by what your proper draw length is, and keeps you consistent. (which is a major factor in accuracy) a proper draw length keeps you from being over extended, so its not how far you CAN draw, its where you SHOULD draw to maintain proper form and control also taking into account releases (use them or dont, it can change your draw length) sloppy back wall lets you minutely change your anchor point and ruin your consistency, thus accuracy.
the valley is how much room you get to enjoy that 80% let off. pull hard and your against 'the back wall' ... relax to much and the cams engage, and wanna take off...
how 'smooth' or 'agressive' a bow is, or how 'hard' it is to draw is determined by a lot of things (one 60lb bow can be harder to draw or harsher than another) like cam profile, brace height, axle to axle length... all tuned from model to model to provide the most speed, the smoothest draw, or some combination of the two. a smooth bow with a tall brace height (the distance from the arrow shelf to the string, undrawn) is 'easier' to draw based on (A) your arms starting position and (B)a less agressive cam that spreads the power stroke out... to understand (A) you have to understand leverage, think about holding a 10lb weight at arms length and then near your chest.. having a 7.5inch brace hieght puts your arm/shoulder an inch and a half further into your BODY's power curve than a 6 inch bow...understanding (B) is a little trickier than i want to explain but a rough analogy would be a steep hill and a shallow hill, the steep one (aggressive cam)provides faster acceleration over a given distance than the shallow hill (smooth cam) thus a faster speed off the string.... but the steep hill is harder to climb... this also usually translates to valley width and how hard it is to recover from creeping past it too far... its complicated, research, research, research...
WHOOPS! didnt realize there were three pages... sorry if it was answered already... looks like youve been making progress in the right direction...
Thanks flip665 this helped me get a better understanding of the terms ! A lot better ! I'll be sure to check out that site too !
If you want to increase your draw weight beyond 60 you will have to buy new limbs
For arrows, basically any easton, beman, carbon express, deer crossing archery, etc arrow will do just make sure you get something that is properly fitted for you. I like a heavy arrow for more momentum. I shoot an Easton FMJ which is 11.3 gpi and a 125 grain tip. IT weights in around 455. Read up on some articles on the internet about speed vs. momentum and kinetic energy.
For a sight a decent 4 pin would be a good one to start out on. More expensive sights with micro adjustability are really great but not really necessary for beginners unless you plan on keeping onto your next bow. You can find a pro shop that will let you test a bunch out which is great because i ended up with a sight i wasnt even considering buying going in. I have an Apex nitrus 6 pin.
How old are you? That will help answer some more questions as well.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Separate names with a comma.