So after purchasing my Rampage XT and having it set up by the bowshop I purchased it at, I could not get the groups I was shooting with my previous bow and my POI was very inconsistent. I believed it was a contact issue and took it back to the proshop a few times to address this. The owner didn't believe I was having contact issues despite fletching being torn from arrows and sold me more arrows. Long story short, I ended up taking it to another shop and they tuned it for me. Bam! First day shooting after retuned I busted a couple nocks and had to shoot spots instead of groups. Only one problem, the arrows were tailing right pretty bad in flight. My POI was right where I was holding the pin, though, all the way out to 65 yds. Well, I decided I didn't like the way the arrows were flying and would strip an arrow and try some bare shaft tuning. Attached is a picture of how this turned out. I only had one bare shaft arrow so I couldn't shoot a bare shaft group, but it was hitting basically the same spot each shot and the angle of impact was the same every shot. I was wondering if you guys could take a look at this photo and tell me what my problem could be. I know that it looks like my knocking point is too low based on how the bare shafts impacting higher than the fletched arrows, but what could cause the angle? Would my rest being severely to one side cause this? Thanks in advance!
Do a google search for the easton archery tuning guide. It's a pdf file and goes through a few different tuning methods. I suggest you no longer take your bow back to a shop for tuning issues. YOU can do this and should be proficient at it. This can be a little imtimidating if you've never done it, but just read that guide a few times and understand it. I have a printed copy and even use it when I tune for pointers, clarity, and so i'm not relying totally on memory. If you have any questions just ask. There are some extremely good and helpful people on here.
try putting twists into the control cable to bring bare shaft down to fletched shaft. if bs hit left of fs then put 1 twist in right yolk and 1 twist out of left yolk. you will need a bow vice to do this.
Indynotch....I did find the easton tuning guide and used the bare shaft tuning section to bring my bare shaft arrows closer to the fletched ones. Also, my arrows fly much straighter now as well. I will be back out tomorrow to walk back tune. I had to move my rest quite a bit to achieve this result, though. I also think I may still be getting some contact with the riser (actually soft rubber on the riser shelf) so I might try raising both the rest and nocking point up tomorrow. kc1...It's funny you mention twisting the yokes, because I was wondering if they were supposed to be the way they are. The left yoke currently appears to have no twist in it, the strands are running pretty much straight up and down. I'd have to look at it again but it MIGHT have 1/2 twist in it. The right side is definitely twisted, more so than my string it seems. I do not have a bow vise, so I will need to head to the bow shop for that.
Thats the way they come from the factory. If you can get your shop to do some yoke tuning and use the control cable to move the vertical poi of bareshafts your bow should tune with centershot around 3/16 to 3/4 and the shaft thru the berger hole. Nock point should be level to slightly above. That should solve your clearance issue.
