I am shooting a Diamond IE Pro, 27 DL around 60-62 DW arrows are GT warriors .400 spine 27 inches long. I have never bareshaft tuned before and didn't want to start until I was confident with my form. Waiting on the approval from the boss before I buy a broadhead target. So I'm wanting to get my fletched and bareshafts flying together the best that I can. The first pic is from 10 yards and I can get the bareshafts grouped with my fletched no problem, I already pulled the fletched arrows before I remembered to take the pic. The second picture is 20 yards and I get this pretty consistent. Any help on how I should proceed.
It is hard to bareshaft tune into bag targets because you cannot get a true indication of nock position, you should really bareshaft tune into foam or something like a compressed target so the arrow can't move when it hits. What bow do you have? Do you have yokes or are you tuning with the rest/nock point?
I'll have a foam target before too long, too many birthday parties for the kids and vacation to recover from first. It's a Diamond Infinite Edge Pro, and it has yokes. All I've done to it is set centershot, nock height, and get my string stops hitting as close to the same time as I can. I got the cam lean parallel with the string at brace as well. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
I think bareshaft tuning is more helpful determining proper spine especially with non centershot trad bows. I usually just french tune my field points and then broadhead tune. If my fieldpoints and broadheads are hitting in the same spot I don't care where a bareshaft hits. You have the correct spine for your setup so I would forego the bareshaft tuning. Good luck.
I paper tune with bareshafts to ensure center shot is on and it's shooting straight. Then start tuning with field points and then broad heads.
Bareshaft can be an excellent tuning tool more than just for spine. Once I bareshaft my broadheads are very close. I would put a 1/2 twist in the right yoke and take a 1/2 twist out of the left to keep timing the same. Once you fix the windage difference in your shafts, slightly raise your nock or d-loop (or lower rest) to fix the elevation. Always make one change at a time.
Thanks for the help Coop! Got it dialed in close enough until I can shoot some broadheads. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
