I recently got new arrows so I decided to check everything by bare shaft tuning. Things went well becuase I decided to fix my my vertical adjustments which just required slightly raising the rest. Then I decided to tackle my left to right and here is where things went wrong. No matter how much I move my rest the bare shaft always hits to left. Is it possible I am over spined? Any help is greatly appreciated. Setup AR31 28 in draw set at 70 lbs with apache drop away Arrows Victory V3 HV cut to 28in with 3in vanes and 100 grain point. These are the factory specs on the shafts VForce HV 350 6.7 gpi 0.35spine 31" Thanks again
spine...or even the rest drop...if the string isnt right i think it may mess with the drop which might be hitting your arrow each time...mostlikly its spine...other guys will comment and give you a better run down on it
Which direction did you move your rest ? Did you start with the center-shot at the true center of the bow ? Are your finished arrows clearing properly ? As you moved the rest, did the arrows incrementally move in one direction ? To be honest, I center my rest as absolutely perfect as I can. Then, I use arrow length and, a little draw weight adjustment, if needed to get the bare shafts to impact CLOSE to the finished arrows. Apparently it's difficult to get bare shafts to smack perfectly together with modern bows and most rests....??? Have you tried a different rest ? If it was an elevation (up/down) issue, I'd say it could be a timing issue.
Thanks for the replies fellas, Yes I have checked for clearance issues and I have plenty of room. I just had the timing checked on the bow last week and all was good. I did start at true center when I decided to make adjustments left and right. When I would move to the right which is the correct adjustment according to what I have read it would move the impact of both arrows without moving them closing together, and it finally got to the point where it would move them farther apart. So went the other direction until it was past true center again both arrows moved but not any closer. I ended the day with rest pretty darn close to true center with arrows having the smallest distance apart of about two inches. Is two inches at twenty yards acceptable?
Is the arrow sticking straight out of the target, or, is it angled, at all ? Sounds like a spine issue. BUT... If your bareshafts and complete arrows are only 2" apart at 20yards, I'd leave it alone. With some modern bows, that's the best you're going to get. You could spend countless hours and money switching arrows, rests, cutting arrows, etc, etc..but, why ? It's a hunting bow. If you're that close at 20 and getting good arrow flight, I'd leave it. Have you shot past 20, at all ?
Rook, there is a chance that you're overspined but I don't think that's the issue. In my personal experience when I moved my rest and both the fletched arrow and the bare shaft moved in the same direction, it was because I moved the rest too much. And "too" much may mean a 1/16th of an inch instead of 1/32nd. I would try two things... 1. Start at center shot (spec'd for your bow) and move it a TINY bit at a time. Start at like 5 yards... 2. Throw on 125gr points on both arrows instead of 100's this will soften the spine a little bit.
Why is that? Why can you only get it close but not the same? Which modern bows are you talking about? What year?
Most modern bows and archery equipment. I will say, that if you're actually willing to keep trying different arrows and arrow configurations, it can be done, but, in the long run, who has time to do that, and, why ? These are hunting bows, not long range target bows. Get it as close as you can, and, call it a day.
The reason I asked is because I have modern archery equipment and I am able to bareshaft tune and get my arrows hitting together. Do you have any particular bows you have seen that haven't been able to bareshaft tune? I can bareshaft tune with any of the arrows I have used. Not sure what different configurations have to do with it. Bareshaft tuning can be done in less than 10 shots and you do it for the same reason you do any tuning, to make sure your bow is shooting the arrow as efficiently as it can. Or, you can stick a rage on the end of the arrow and call it a day . That's what most seem to do anyway. Hey, expand your killzone.
My Assassin isn't dead on. With my current set-up, I've gotten it close, but, my bare shafts are not hitting with my finished arrows, at 20 and 30yards. When I began to bare-shaft tune, they were impacting about 10inches apart. My rest is dead center with the true center line of the bow, and, I like to leave it there, and, adjust other things in order to tune. I gradually cut my arrows down, because the spine was apparently pretty weak. I've also elected not to shoot max weight with this bow(which I believe was about 71lbs on the scale), right now, I'm at 68.72. Now, I'm within 3-4" at 20 and 30yards, respectively. I stopped there because, arrow flight appears to be good, tearing a PERFECT hole through paper, and, I'm able to hold nice groups at long range. I played with tip-weight a bit. I can probably get my arrows a "touch" shorter, but, I dont think enough so that it will zero the gap between bareshafts and finished arrows. I shoot 3 different broadheads, Rocky Mountain Warriors(fixed head, similar to a Muzzy) which I shot for most of this past season with my other bow, Rocky Mountain Snypers or Rage 2 Blade, so, broadhead impact is the same as field points(with mechanicals, I've yet to shoot the Warriors with this bow) and, I only have these heads in 100g, so I stuck with that tip weight while tuning. Don't get me wrong, I would love to have my bareshafts flying the same as my complete arrows, and, be able to shoot whichever broadheads I want, but, I'm happy with how my bow is shooting, and, I really dont want to keep spending money on various arrows. The bow is more than huntable, and, I'm confident I'm getting more than most of the performance this bow can offer.
So, it doesn't seem that you can't get the bow to bareshaft, you just can't get it to bareshaft with it setup incorrectly . Instead of cutting the arrows any shorter why not just drop the DW. That will "stiffen" the spine right up and FPS you will lose will be unnoticeable unless you shoot through a chrono. What bugs me about this is that you made an extremely broad statement "most modern bows won't bareshaft tune" but the only example you give is your bow. Other people read these threads and they may go away with the incorrect thought that most modern bows won't bareshaft tune which is a total crock. A few days ago you thought BH tuning could be done with a mechanical (rage) BH and now your making statements about tuning most modern bows. Sometimes no advice is much better than very bad advice. I put a muzzy phantom BH on my bareshaft and it hit with my FP's at 20 yards and that was using a modern bow and arrow. I am not about to make the claim that all modern bows can shoot a BH on a bareshaft and it should hit with their FP's just because I could do it .
I did lower my DW. I went from maxed out, down to where I currently am now. I was going to incrementally lower my DW, but, ended up stopped where I'm at, now. I actually planned this set-up in an attempt to be in near 80lbs of KE, and, that's exactly where I'm at. I'm not overly concerned with speed, although, I like to know where I'm at, and, with my current set-up, I'm shooting 290fps. I'm pleased with where my bow is at; how it's performing. I'm confident taking long range shots, confident shooting X's at 20, thus, no reason to spend any more time fine tuning it. I'm getting much more performance out of it than I was when I first bought it, by far. See private message. No I didn't. What I said was, that, in theory, broadhead tuning means getting your BH tipped arrows to impact in the same spot and your FP tipped arrows; with my mechanicals, this is happening, so, in theory, I'm "BH tuned"
This is what you said: I don't see any theorizing going on. BH tuning is done with fixed blade BH's. That is fact, not theory. When someone says they are BH tuning they are using fixed blade BH's. Now, you can make up any kind of BS you want to justify what you want to do but that doesn't make it true or fact and to try and pass that BS off as fact onto people that are visiting these forums and that don't know any better is just plain wrong.
Exactly. Seems like more of a question to me, than me saying what can or can't be done. I didn't make up anything. Most of the time I'm simply stating my own personal experiences or methods, and, apparently, they work ! Additionally, given the accomplishments of the people who I learn from, I don't think anything they are telling me, is BS.
I flat out stink at bareshaft tuning. I do it every year, but I have yet to get good results from it like many do. I usually paper tune to get my vertical tear cleaned up, then its off to walk back and group tuning. I can get my BH's and fieldpoints to hit the same spot, so I'm happy. I just wish I knew what I was doing incorrectly with bare shafts.
You don't HAVE to bareshaft tune. If you're grouping well and achieving decent arrow flight, you can hunt like that. Many people do. Make sure you've got a solid hole through paper, not just vertical. Start with your rest as dead center to the true center of the bow. This makes a good starting point if you need to refer back, during your tuning. Also, a steady, controlled release and proper grip is going to help keep things consistent. Always do oyur own bow, yourself, obviously, because each shooter torques the bow, differently. If you've chosen an arrow that, on paper, is spined correctly for your set-up, and, you're getting a good hole through paper, grouping well, rest is installed properly and your finished arrows are not making contact with anything, but, you're still not able to get your bareshafts to hit with your finished arrows, you've likely got a little bit of a spine issue that can be solved through a few methods. I'm not a huge fan of Eastons shooting chart, because, I've been told that it's the same info it contained 20years ago. However, it's a good starting point for someone that isn't overly familiar with the tuning process. Depending on the where your bareshafts are hitting, and, what hand bow you're shooting, the chart gives you possible remedies. You can play with arrow length, tip weight, draw weight, etc...Just remember, when you bareshaft tune, dont limit yourself to just 20 yards. I like to start at 10yards, and, move back in 10yard increments. You could be very surprised at the contradicting results from even 20-25 yards, let alone 30. Again, if you're striving for optimal arrow flight, go for it. Have fun tuning, but, dont exhaust or frustrate yourself, because, it's not necessary in order to have a huntable bow. As long as you're getting good arrow flight, braodhead tipped arrows are flying true, and, you're sighted in properly...You're good.
I wouldn't say that 2" at 20 yards is acceptable. I go for 0" at 30 yards. My first thought from your example is rest contact. Spray the rest with some kind of powder and ensure that your fletchings aren't hitting anywhere during the shot. Check for cable contact and rest control cable contact as well. There is only one bow I haven't been able to get bareshaft tuned and I was having a similar result as you. It ended up being a two-fold issue. 1.) Cam lean on this bow was excessive; the cam deflection was 1/4" from at rest to full draw! 2.) For some reason YTBD this particular bow did not like a drop away control cable attached to the down cable no matter how it was adjusted (I set up the same rest on several other bows of the same model without issue but not this particular bow.) It was weird but when I put a WB on it instead, I was able to get it good enough for expandables. I never could get that bow to perform up to snuff though, even after replacing the limbs and flipping them around. Come to think of it, I did have another bow with similar tuning issues but I corrected the problem by flipping the limbs (bottom to top) and properly shimming the cams and it is now the best shooting bow I've ever owned.
