ballistic coefficient Arrows & Bolts

Forget his name, but I think that might be the young fellow from way back who's responsible for most of my 104 dislikes.

 

Yeah another legend in their own mind.

 

Would be a shame to waste that level of talent on deer.

 

News to me. Perhaps I missed my calling? I have never been involved in competitive archery. I should look into that. But I do not have the time nor the interest.

 

Tonight I am vac sealing deer pieces. This is not a waste. This is the outcome of preparation and fine tuning. But I am on break right now and will not finish before bedtime. I'll get back at it tomorrow. Earlier this year I discovered 'Sous vide'

I decided to thick cut my loins and steaks this go around. Last night I did some sous vide on thick cuts and pan fried them up in beef tallow and avocado oil today. Point being to not over fry them since the SV already rendered them done at low T. Ultra rare yet fully cooked red meat. Melt in your mouth. Yummy as can be. What the pretech folks used to eat, only safe. So many talents, eh?

 

Show us what you shoot, show us a few trophy pics. Educate us please. Seeing that you are 70, I'm sure you have lots of knowledge to share

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I think everyone here is thinking of a vertical bow.
Consistent dime size groups at 30 and 420 fps...not a vertical bow.
I don't think it'd be that hard to stack arrows at 30 yards with a crossbow, likely with a scope, rested on something.

 

I have a vice rest for my cross bow, even on a bad day when I am twitchy I can hit dead center at 30.

 

I'm glad you think so.

 

My serious bow days started in the 90's when I upgraded from stick to compound. I learned everything I could about it.

My first compound was a Golden Eagle Predator. Not fancy. Not much let off: record book eligible. [As an aside, it my belief that any reasonably well made bow can be well tuned - the limitations reside in the inherent original specs, like poundage and velocity. ]

To maximize velocity I went with Easton XX78 Camohunter Advantage Superlite, and after consulting the vast knowledge base at Easton decided to cut them shorter and use an overdraw to further reduce weight and maximize velocity. I never again shot without an overdraw. For proper spine I went with 2314. To keep FOC reasonable ( flight stability) I used 100 grain broad-heads and attached longer feathers.

Tuning: Cam timing, Limb torque/poundage adjustment, ( max is not usually the best stability) Tiller adjust, bare shaft planning testing, Shooting through paper, horizontal spring pressure adjustment on flipper rest, Stabilizer weight adjusted, blah blah blah.

This was the birthplace of dime size groups and having to make multiple target dots to save on arrow costs. But true, that GEP did not have modern velocities. I did hunt with it very successfully for for decades. Since then I have made equipment upgrades, and things get faster, and everything can be tuned to reduce group size. Velocity plays a big role in that because when it increases the trajectory is flatter and the vertical variability is less, tightening up the vertical component of the group. I always go with the lightest possible arrow set up to maximize velocity.

People argue about mass and 'momentum penetration' (=MV) but I respond with kinetic energy (=MV^2) and hitting nearer what I aim at as being more important.

If you are not shooting consistent tight groups then probably there is room for more/better tuning. Or less likely the equipment is faulty/substandard.

Meanwhile, back at the OP ... any one have good numbers on Arrow BC's?

 

Why? So you can poke fun? You already insulted me without cause. I owe you nothing. You owe me an apology.

 

Sorry buddy I tried to engage. I just don't see your point. All that math and tuning talk is wonderful but I promise you form is the problem in 99 % of loose groups.

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I always found exact repetition and consistant anchor point to be most crucial in accuracy.

 

Good lord, what was all that? An attempt to intimidate me with your vast experience and knowledge?
I, too, have been shooting a vertical compound bow since the early 90's. I remember needing an overdraw to get a lighter aluminum arrow before the reflex riser came to be.
I shoot some decent groups if I do say so myself. Not sure why my comment made you go that direction, perhaps a superiority complex?
I'm a fairly OCD person and I enjoy getting pretty darn geeky when it comes to bow setup, bow tuning, and arrow "builds". But it makes me also get a bit long winded and I'm sure some of the folks here have found some of my posts a bit annoying.

I do not shoot groups at the same spot when shooting 30 yards or less, for a long time now, or else I'll definitely end up with some broken nocks and/or ruined arrows. But that certainly doesn't make me jump on the internet and claim I shoot dime sized groups as if it is my common, every day average group.
Not sure what any of that has to do with my comment though. I assume your meaning is you ARE talking about shooting consistent, dime sized groups with a vertical bow that does 420 fps? I can think of only one bow that might be capable of that...well...more than once anyway ha ha.

Best of luck in finding a BC chart for arrows my man. You're asking for something that even the top shooters in the world do not worry about.

 

hmmm, never needed a program to sight in my Tetra..... I know some use programs for sight tapes, I just use a blank tape, mark as needed in pencil and then match it up to a tape that comes with the sights ...

 

One of the points is that once you know your initial velocity and BC the program maps out the entire trajectory curve. Then you can choose where to put your far zero, depending on your tolerance for deviation high/low off sight line which dictates your Point-blank range. Then you can sight in at any distance knowing where it should be hitting @ that distance.

Notice on the hyper image that I zeroed at 32 yards, one inch high ( matter of convenience for where my target is ). After I decided to not go over 2 inches high along the way. Of course you check it at couple other distances and it always works out perfect because math is like that assuming you start with good data in a good model.

So much wear, tear, time and what not saved. I haven't felt the need to practice much after I learned about tuning, way back in the day. I think the practice like crazy folks need to tune up then magically discover that they don't really need to practice much. Just check it at the start of the season. My muscle memory exercise is to draw, hold and let down with a higher poundage bow. And do physical stuff year round. Couch slouches don't seem to make good bow hunters.

Now, If you check the 2 threads I started you might notice I was asking for information from the community. I didn't come here to argue or brag. I answered the questions which arose in an accurate explanatory manner which seemed to irritate for reasons unknown to me. Apparently of the currently active folks here no one has BC information or even gives a hoot. So be it

Ditto for the cam thread, seems that no one here has those models or cares to comment about them. So be that as well.

You might also notice I haven't jumped all over anybody else or their threads.

Pick a spot & Sling straight!

 

Yes. Anchor point establishes the sight line. Gotta have that.