I got a new Bow tec destroyer 340 and was having arrow flight issues at the bow shop. We paper tuned it at 10 yards and thought we had the problem solved brought it home and started to shot it at 20 to 40 yards and still having erratic arrow flight. Arrow cork screws to the target then the tail of the arrow goes to the right the straighens up and hits target. I'm shooting 60 lbs at 30 1/2 inches with a ultra rest LD and carbon express maxima hunter in a 350 with 2 inch fusion vanes with a slight helical. Can anybody give any suggestions on what the problem might be and how to fix it.
my bow seams to do that to when i push the string to hard onto my nose or when i pull it pack farther then i should, and if i yank my trigger. i shoot the bear charger at 60 lb 340 grain carbon arrow 2 in vains with 100 grain tips
I agree with GABowhunter. Make sure your wrist sling is adjusted properly and focus on not gripping the bow and letting the bow fall from your hand after the release.
When I paper tune it is usually at distances of 6, 10 and maybe 15 feet. I think once you get past 15 feet or so, then you are not seeing the true reaction off of the bow and could possibly lead to misdiagnosing a problem.
Bruce is right. There could be many things causing this, including but not limited to arrow spine, fletching contact, cam lean, cam timing, improper centershot, hand torque, improper tiller settings, or nock pinch.
Thanks for the replies. I talked to a local bow shop and he was telling me that poor arrow flight was a common problem with the destroyers despite all tuning effort there still is arrow flight problems.Any of you destroyer guys have this problem.
My Destroyer 340 is absolutely driving tacks and I'm getting fantastic arrow flight. My best buds Destroyer 350 is doing the same, and I personally setup and tuned both bows. I suspect that if there are "tuning" issues with a Destroyer, it may be the person tuning the bow and the process they are using. A traditional Binary cam bow can shoot fairly well even if it's in a terrible state of tune, the OverDrive Binary system requires a bit of additional tuning similar to a regular dual cam. With that said, once tuned.......the OverDrive system functions exactly like a Binary. Look at the video below, from .48 to .58 into the video.........I wouldn't suggest you do this but if you were to try this drawing procedure with a regular dual cam you would have an issue on your hands. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzG8SXQ9H8A&feature=player_embedded They do tune a bit more like a dual cam bow than traditional Binary cams, which isn't a bad thing if the person doing the tuning knows how to work on them. Basically they need to be creep tuned for cam timing, and the cable yokes need to be tuned to eliminate cam lean.......other than this they are the same to tune as any other Binary cam bow on the market. I'll outline my setup process for how I tuned my Destroyer below: I started using OnTarget2 to select an arrow setup for my bow that would get me high front of center, and 275-285fps out of my bow at 64ish lbs. I ended up selecting a Victory VForce V1 300 cut at 27.75" with a 100 gr Muzzy brass insert, and a 100gr broadhead along with 4" feathers and wraps. According to OnTarget2 they should spine perfectly. After selecting the arrow, I started setting up the bow. I set centershot at roughly 13/16", and then I check true centershot using a Golden Key Tru Center Shot gauge. I set nock neight exactly square using an HTM dual axis string and arrow leveling kit. I tie in nock points so they are not too snug, don't want nock pinch. Then I tie in my loop. I bottom both bow limbs out, then take equal turns out of both limbs till I get the desired draw weight. I will often mark the limb bolt and the limb pocket with a sharpie while bottomed out so it's easy for me to monitor this and that it hasn't moved at all. I place an arrow along side both sides of both cams to see if there is any cam lean while at static (not drawn). I will adjust the cable yokes to make sure that these are laser straight. You will need a press for this, either an EZ Press or a X press. I set the cam modules for what the charts say should equal my draw length. I draw the bow on a draw board and measure true draw to determine if it's drawing correct (AMO published draw length equals true draw + 1.75"). I will set the bow so that I'm getting the draw length I need. Next I'll work with the bow on the draw board to see if both top and bottom draw stops hit the cables at the same time. I'll press the bow and adjust cable length as needed until both are hitting the same. If I need tiny adjustments (smaller than a half twist of cable will give you) I'll adjust the cable yokes by twisting them individually. Once I have the thing timed perfect on the draw board I check cam lean again. I bolt on the rest of my accessories, and then head outside........ I'll sight the bow in for 20 yards. Then I'll check my centershot to see if it walkback tunes based on my centershot adjustment. If I need to move the rest anymore than a hair......I likely have a spine issue.......but both my bow and the other Destroyer 350 I've tuned personally have been spot on using the spine tools in OnTarget2. I'll then creep tune the bow. I'll put a horizontal 12" or so piece of tape on the target at 30 yards after sighting in at 30 yards. Then I'll shoot an arrow from the front of the valley at that piece of tape. I'll then shoot another arrow while pulling hard into the back wall at that piece of tape. Make sure both were good shots, if not rule them out and try again. If the two from front and back of the valley hit in different places vertically, I'll adjust the cables accordingly. If the shot from the front of the valley hits high, add a half twist to the cable that attaches to the bottom cam. Then start over. You may find you need to add a couple of twists, this is OK, just make sure when your done the draw length still fits you and the draw weight hasn't changed too much. Adjust DL and DW accordingly and then recheck the creep tune. Then I'll shoot the bow through paper at roughly 10 foot to make sure nothing terrible is happening. Both times I've done this I got a bullet hole from both of the Destroyers I've tuned personally. Then I'll broadhead tune the arrows. I got lucky and my bow is shooting Slick Trick Grizz Tricks, Rage's, and field points to the same point of impact. If the fixed blades were hitting off, I'll move the rest a hair in the direction of where the field points are hitting. Example.....if my field points are hitting dead center, and fixed heads are hitting 4" high and 4" left, I'll move the rest a hair down, and a hair right, then reshoot. This can be like herding cats, but if you start with a good baseline using the tuning tools and processes I've outlined above you shouldn't be too far off assuming you have a properly spined arrow. I hope this helps, and if you need additional help please feel free to reach out to me.
Excellent post Matt. I have never tuned a destroyer but I can't believe it is all that difficult. I agree with Matt when he says it may be the person tuning the bow and their process. A big hint is paper tuning at 10 yards. To me that is worse than useless because it will likely indicate things are correct with bullet holes when that is not the case.
I agree with this statement. Most bowhunters including myself would think there is something went wrong with the bow do to there arrows not hitting the target were they want. Pete Sheply, Randy Ulmber, Mike Slinkard, along with a few others preach proper shooting form. As of............ When the bow is drawn, the sight level and bow level must be aligned properly to achieve maximum accuracy. Poor alignment could occur due to fatigue or possibly bad habit or habits in practice. Draw and Aim A. Set bow hold B. Set release on loop or string C. Raise bow and draw D. Anchor E. Align sight and level bow F. Establish sight picture G. Focus, steady, and aim Release and Follow Through A. Tighten back muscles B. Relax draw hand to release C. Keep bow arm up and steady My wife hated when I harp on her about form, bad habits are picked up and groups are poor do to this. But with practice & going back to the basic's now she has good form and her groups are great, her magical sweet spot in yardage is 30 yards. Her groups are the size of a tennis balls, and may I say she does this always. I for one had bad form , my shot were inconstistant and some were tight, most were loose. It was pointed out to me years, & years ago by a old timer that shot constistant and always. One word he told me "F O R M!" Drop the bad habits and start at the basics, follow simple but basic archery princables and keep with it until they become natural. I've done this and achieved good form for years now. Sometimes we think the problems lay in the equipment we use, when all reality the problem lies within us. Just a suggestion
I went through a rough patch of my arrows kicking out and then realized I had fletching contact on my rest. I had been shooting the cock feather out and then switched to cock feather up and have had no issues.
the guy at your bow shop doesnt know what hes talkin about. its not the bow it has never been the bow and never will be the bow that is givin bad arrow flight. paper tuning should be done no farther than five yards from paper. you need to check to make sure you viens arent hitting your cables. bow techs cables have always been close to the arrow and i had this problem with blazer veins took me a long time to figure it out but the viens were hitting the cables because the shorter veins like the blazers or the fusions are taller off the arrow shaft. try shooting an arrow with the three in viens they dont stand as tall off the arrow and wont hit. make sure your string surpressor is lined up and centerd on the string to.what rest are you shooting?
Thanks for the replies. Im shooting the ultra rest ld.I took the bow to a different bow shop because i dont have a bow press to work on it my self. The guy set the timing he said it was of a little bit and checked the center shot he clams the bow is tuned. Thanks RICK JAMES for the information I printed It out and took it two the bow shop with me but even though he said the destroyers he tuned didnt have good arrow flight he didnt read all of your post because he said he didnt like useing the draw board method.I brought the bow home with the same poor arrow flight. I tried four in. vanes and it didnt help. Im open two suggestions I am getting disgusted.
