I was wondering how backed out limb bolts affect a bow's performance? Example, I want to hunt with a 74#-75# bow so i will have to buy an 80# bow and back out the bolts some. How does this technically affect the strings and cables? Also, is there any way to get more speed out of this set-up if I tinkered with the strings/cables? (Shortening/Twisting??) If so, how is that done??
Backing out limbs shouldn't affect the performance or the strings or cables. You can increase poundage by adjusting the cables and you may have to adjust the string. You will need a bow press for that.
Press the bow until there is slack in the string and cables, take the cables off of the cam, add a 1/2 twist or more, put back on the cam, unpress the bow, remeasure to make sure your axle to axle and brace height are very close and check the draw weight. You probably only want to get 1 to 2 lbs above max DW. What do you need 74-75lbs DW for?
I'm with bruce on the "What do you need 74-75lbs DW for?" question. The answer to your question on how backing the limb bolts out effects the bow is dependent on how the limbs are attached to the bow. Old fixed limb pockets gave the limb more room to move in them as the limb was backed out. Newer, more expensive floating limb pockets show very little effect on the limb's stability throughout their adjustment range. If you really want/feel you need 75#'s the best way is to get a quality 80# bow with floating limb pockets and back it down. I've killed the biggest and most dangerous critters on the continent with clean pass throughs at 70#'s and my next bow will be 60. Today's bows are just so efficient that you don't need that much draw force.
Thanks for the advice! I just want to have the best results when going into the woods and I figured the couple extra pounds could help me. I shoot a 29 1/4" Beman ICS Hunter 340 with 100g heads and 3 4" feather fletching. Im not sure of the total arrow wieght, i'm actually very curious, i'll find out soon. The maximum poundage rated for arrow setup is around 75. I'm going for speed and hunting practicality here. I'll be buying my new bow this summer and I just want to have it "Perfect"! I have other bows that are "average", but I want this new one to be really fast but still huntable. My ideal ideal set up will be 6" BH, 34" Axle to Axel, Dual Cams, and about 74#. This should get me close to the 315fps mark with a lot of energy. Im right on the cusp of buying a 70# and maxing it or an 80# and dropping it down.......thoughts?? (I should probably buy the new bowtech that comes in 75# huh!!)
I'm going to go out on a lime and ask why 75#'s too. If your shooting for 315 fps, you can actually surpass that with lesser poundage with the same arrow. For example with your draw length, the new Air Raid you cited above will most likely do that. Another example is my 82nd Airborne. I can get 327 fps at 63 lbs, I shot a 465 grain arrow at 280 fps at 63 lbs producing just shy of 84 fplbs of KE. WAY overkill for a whitetail setup but hey, it did it and did it smooth and quietly. Oh and this is a 70 lb bow backed out to 63 lbs. If your dying for a 75lb bow, your right, grabbing the 75 lb Air Raid I believe will shock ya.
I have a 70# bow that acually maxes out at 73#. I have grown to like the extra poundage and i dont want to sacrifice that on my next purchase.
I think that this is gonna be a "special" bow for a few people. I ordered the 65 lb max limbs as I love to hunt at 63-65 lbs. You just don't need the extra KE at the sacrifice of the ease of getting that bow back under pressure or in the cold. I can't wait.
The question is can you pull 75# without straining? If so then go as high as you are comfortable shooting, I shoot an 80# Katera maxed at 82.2# and have no problems shooting the weight and appreciate what gaining the lost speed from having a 28" draw. It still baffles me how many people knock or question why someone wants to shoot above 70# and claim overkill or excessive force etc.
You'll appreciate the "why's" when you get older and start to feel it. I wish I hadn't shot all those 3D tourney's in my youth at 80#'s. It takes its toll. I can still draw 80+ without issue but I can draw 60 a lot smoother, in more adverse conditions and hold it longer. To each their own. I only ask because I want to make sure that people are making an educated decision and aren't caught up in the bigger and badder is better hype.
I think i have to go with the 80# because this is going to be my "nasty" bow. I still have other great bows that are average BC and speed. Question: What poundage do you think an 80# bow can be turned down to, safely?
Here is what I will never understand. Are you saying that shooting 80# in the past caused you to have issues today? This by all means makes no sense. If one has the strength and shoots with proper form they will only continue to keep their muscles working efficiently with repeated shooting and should strengthen their muscles. There is a huge benefit to shooting heavier when you factor heavier arrows and KE.
