I have had a Jennings Buckmasters for about 12 years that I have never been able to get to shoot well. It has been into 3 bow shops over the years with no success. This weekend, I took another stab at paper tuning it (3rd or 4th time). The bow is now shooting much better, but my dilemma is that when the string is at rest and the arrow is in the rest, the tip of the arrow is at least 2 inches left of center, and 1" below horizontal. What gives? Here is some additional info: My bow is a RH, split limb, single cam set at 68#, 30" draw with a WB rest. The arrows are Carbon Express Terminator Hunters, 6075, 31" long with 4" vanes, 125 gr field points. I shoot with a release, and open bow hand with a sling. I tuned using the same method outlined by this site and others. I noticed somewhere that recommended that if you are not seeing a positive change with your rest moves, move way out in the other direction. That is what I ended up doing and it worked. My groups tightened right up after the tuning, and I had a "Robin Hood" with my 5th and 6th shots. I like how it is shooting now, but I am nervous about how far off center the arrows are. Should I be concerned about this? Thanks!
Yes, but more like 6 and 15 feet. Both showed the vanes high by about 1/8" to1/4", perfectly right to left.
My advice is if that is what you have to do to get it to paper,then walk back or french tune for centershot.I have never had much luck getting a proper vertical tear with a WB with the vertical nock point set right(unless using feathers) so take that for what it is worth. That being said,looks like you might have a weak spine issue. You say your hand is open,but is it RELAXED.It doesn't matter if the hand is open if it is stiff,you will still be inducing torque on the grip. Plus you need to check your cams for lean at full draw. You say it is shooting great but is it hitting in the same left and right at all distances.In my personal experience,when a rest is pointing way in or out,it becomes much harder to shoot the bow.In short,it becomes much less forgiving.What happens is you are having to contort your upper body left or right to compensate for the bow basically shooting off at an angle. There are some way more technical issues as well with arrow nodes and such but that gets real technical.
"You say your hand is open,but is it RELAXED.It doesn't matter if the hand is open if it is stiff,you will still be inducing torque on the grip. Plus you need to check your cams for lean at full draw." I am pretty sure it is not my form. I have owned 6 or 7 bows and have never had these issues. I shoot high power regularly, and I am well aware of how muscle tension can effect shots. I checked my cams tonight, and they appeared to stay true at full draw. However, I took a close look at my string (single cable/string) and I have some serving issues. Some is cut up where it hits the cam, some is pulled apart like a slinky, then bunched up. I am very suspicious as some of the bunched up areas are riding into the cam. I did not check this earlier as I only have about 1K shots on the string. I am a bit ticked off by this to say the least! I am not going to invest the money into this bow to get it re-strung, but I AM curious if this would cause my tuning to be so far off. Definitely the last year on this bow.
As TFox said above, I'd be suspicious of a weak spine. If that bow hasn't had NEW strings/cables in a long time, it may have timing issues etc. as well.
I think that I found the problem tonight. The whole riser is warped. I see a Z7 in the very new future.
I'd hold out on the Z7 if possible. A little birdy told me of some new stuff coming just around the corner from Mathews, but if you need something now...GET IT! The Safari is only a glimpse...
