I'm currently shooting 29.5 inch FMJs 340s with right offset 4 inch feathers. For broadheads I use 125gr Steelforce single-bevel broadheads. I think this comes out to just under 500gr and about 13.5% FOC. Shooting these out of a Mathews Z7x, 29inch draw, set at 62ish pounds. If I go heavier on arrows I don't mind bumping that up to 70. I turned it down to 62 to prevent wear and tear on my shoulder and to keep the bow as quiet as possible. Anyway, looking for arrow build suggestions. I was thinking of going even heavier with my arrows but maybe it's overkill. I don't care about speed. I'd rather keep my bow as quiet as possible and have high momentum than shoot blazing fast arrows. Would I be okay to shoot FMJ 300s? If so, how can I keep my FOC up without switching broadheads? Any advice is appreciated.
I was kind of leaning towards the following: 30 inch FMJ 300s Right helical 4 inch feathers 175gr Steelforce single-bevel broadheads I think these would come in at 570gr and 16% FOC. I was kind of hoping to hit the 600gr mark though. Would those even work for my bow set-up? Are they overkill?
I shoot an original model Z7. I shot FMJ's, various Carbon Express arrows, Easton ST Axis arrows, basically all the expensive higher end arrows. I had good luck and bad luck with them. For the past two years I've been using Beman ICS Hunters, and have had fewer breaks or cracks than any expensive carbon arrow. Maybe give them a look. I was a bit skeptical given their inexpensive price tag, but they have been a good arrow. I'll continue to use them for sure.
Are you having troubles? If it's working why change it? 340 is probably right with a 125 grain head. If you increase to 70 pounds, you'll probably need to go .300s, especially with that long of an arrow.
No troubles. I lost my quiver and am down to 2 arrows, so I figured if I was going to make a change, now would be a good time since I have to pick up new arrows anyways. I would agree that I could move to 300s if I bump my draw weight. And that's what I'm leaning towards since I like shooting a heavy arrow. But I figured there are guys on here that know a heck of a lot more than me so I figured I'd throw the question out there.
If your shafts were 28 you should be in the 400 spine. Many people go with arrows shorter than their draw length. Why do you use a longer shaft? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You can easily get away with shooting a shorter arrow. AMO draw length is measure from the nock to the deepest point in the grip then you add 1 3/4 inches. So to have an arrow that sits over the deepest part if the grip (in front of the rest) for a 29 inch bow would be 27.25. Bow that's a little to close to the rest for some so add another .75-1 inch and you still have good rest clearance. So if you shoot a 28 inch arrow you should be Able to shoot the 340 spine at 70, and the 400 at 62. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the explanation. I may be shooting a 29.5 inch draw, I didn't check. Was going from memory but it's been a few years since I bought the bow so I was probably wrong. As for the arrows, I just measured from the groove of the nock to the end of the shaft and they were a little over 29.5 inches. I had them cut at an archery shop so I'm not exactly sure how/why they chose that length, but they did measure me at full draw and that's what they gave me. I'd like to draw my bow now and see where my arrow is in relation to the deepest part of the grip.
Yeah, you could easily getaway with a 28 inch shaft. Maybe even 27.5 if you're okay with a short shaft and it won't interfere with the rest. Then you could shoot the 340s at 70. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I checked and I'm shooting a 29.5 inch draw. Here's a pic of my bow at full draw so you can see where my arrow sits.
Maybe not with the heavy head. For sure not over spined when he cranks it to 70. I guess it depends on arrow length too. I think it is hard to be over spined in today's world unless you shoot fingers. I shoot Axis and FMJ 300 with 75gr brass inserts, 125 gr BH from both of my 70/28 bows with no issues. Get the free trail of the shaft calculator from pinwheel and put in all your specs and determine the correct length. This has works great for me.
