All you shoulf realy be looking at is the spine of the arrow (this is the stiffness of the shaft) you need a stiffer shaft for higher poundage bows than for lower poundage bows. Longer draw length will also require stiffer spined arrows than short DL. The number on Easton arrows are the spine (450, 400, 340, 300, 250) some other brands numbers are not the spine so jusy make sure you compare apples with apples. And then the weight per inch (Gpi) is the only other number to worry about. Make sure your arrow weighs more than 5 grains per pound draw weight of your bow and you are safe. But heavier arrows make a bow silent and have more momentum so rather go heavy. Hoyt Maxxis 31 DG 82# 28,5" DL FMJ DG 250 @ 713gr @ 240ft/s
Thanks! My DL is 29" and my bow is set to 60 lbs. The arrows I currently have are 340 stiffness. Is that a good arrow for my set up or do I need a different one?
340's should work but depending on your setup you may want to look at 400's when it's time to get new arrows. 60X Custom Strings
There are charts out there that go off of the type of bow, draw length, and poundage to tell you a spine stiffness. I think Easton has one on their website Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is what I thought but the 'pro shop dude' where I bought the bow said it would be way to stiff. Having lost faith in his skills, I went ahead and got the 300s and I put 155 gr insert/arrowhead. It flies straight, sticks in the target straight, and at 455 gr I am getting crazy good penetration. This Sunday I was shooting at the aforementioned range in Plano, tx and the guy next to me was shooting a Bear Method 65# and 355 gr arrows going at somewhere around 320 fps (he had a 26.5" draw length). My arrows going at somewhere around 240 where getting 3-4" more penetration in the Block backstop. It was amazing the difference between momentum and ke. Any other suggestions when shooting an arrow (outside of paper tuning, which I have heard is not needed for compounds, but correct me if I am wrong) to determine if the spine is right?
Paper tune will show you a lot about the arrow spine and some of the tune of the bow ... It's always a good starting point. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I never Papertune, I go straight to broadhead tuning. If broadheads flies with field points then you know the arrow leaves the bow straight. Rather have too stiff spined arrows than too weak spined arrows. Hoyt Maxxis 31 DG 82# 28,5" DL FMJ DG 250 @ 713gr @ 240ft/s
So is it lower or higher the number, the more the stiffness is? Sorry for having so many questions. Mission X3 28" DL 53 LBS DW
The answer is yes, the smaller the number (in general, but some manufactures are different) the stiffer the arrow. Here is the deal with the spine number. It is the measurement of arrow shaft deflection and stated in thousandths of an inch. The standard method all arrow manufactures use is to support the arrow shaft in two places (I think it is 24 inches apart) and apply a force at the mid-point of the shaft supports. I forget the weight of the applied force, but it is in pounds. The "SPINE" is the amount of deflection (or bend) caused by the applied force. The deflection is measured in thousands of an inch. So now you can see that the smaller number is a stiffer shaft, because the deflection is less, making it a stiffer shaft. I hope my explanation is clear. The only way to actually know the spine of the arrow is to read the fine print. I have noticed recently for manufacturers who specify arrow with numbers such as "4565, or 5070" are not actually specifying the Spine. Rather they are specifying the bow poundage range. The actual Spine measurement is not present. This usually is the case with mid to low cost-point arrows. To be safe and actually know what you are buying, I recommend purchasing what you can afford first, but place a real high priority on purchasing shafts that you know what the spine is, and not purchase shafts based solely upon a poundage designation. The poundage designation gets really confusing because you have to take into consideration the type of bow and cams that you have. At best, these are a slightly educated purchase with still to many variables to firmly decide upon a shaft. Stick with purchasing a known Spine, and your shot groupings will be noticeably tighter, if all other tuning aspects are correct. It is always best to error on the stiffer side. For the most part, the grains per inch will take care of itself when the spine is correct.
