im going to be ordering a bear legion rth package here within the next week.i am completely ignorant to the world of bows.ive got alot of time in the field with everything else but the bows n equipment are foreign to me.black bear opens up in august here n then dear n elk.i plan on chasing them all.i have a 30 n half inch draw length n think i will have it set to 70 lbs unless that is a bad idea.i tested one at that and it was not all to difficult to draw.any and all suggestions,input on the matter would be appreciated.
First off I would have to say ditch the RTH package and go with some better components. You don't have to spend tons of money to get way better stuff. And to save you some extra scratch right off the bat you don't need a quiver right away unless your going hunting with broad heads right away so that $30+ you can put back toward good components and just wait till later for it. The whisker biscuit is fine for now but make sure you get the better version that has vertical as well as windage adjustments. Thats a great beginner rest. Drop-a-way rests are better but more expensive and take a more know how to set up. Lots of experienced good hunters use whisker biscuits too though. Make sure you get better sights. Ones made of metal. The plastic ones that come with the RTH package will break. Especially in the cold dragging it up a tree and it catches on something. Save yourself that headache. Trophy ridge has a line called HITMAN that are solid sights that don't cost much. There are others around too that make quality stuff for not much money. As far as arrows go you will need a .340 or .300 spine depending on which tip weight you go with and what length you trim to. Gold Tip makes great arrows for the money. Basically how it works is the more you spend the smaller the tolerances are in straightness GPI and spine. Spine probably being the most important. Most people can't shoot the difference between a .001 straightness and a .006 straightness but you get into arrows with erratic spine and your in for a headache. Here is a good read on choosing arrows. http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arrows/hunting_arrows_selection_guide_chapter_3.htm For a release don't skimp. Get a good, reliable, consistent release. You can't go wrong with Scott. I got a Little goose and love it. But there are other good manufactures out there. Tru-ball, Tru-fire, and thats where my mind just went blank. I'm sure some other people will chime in. For a broad head I would go with a good fixed blade. Anything NAP makes is great (Hellrazor, Thunderhead Edge are my personal favorites). Slick Tricks are awesome, Muzzies are solid as well. Only reason I say a fixed blade is because thats just one less thing to deal with as newbie. Its just easier. That many less moving parts to worry about. Anyway I rambled some but hopefully this gives you a starting point and something to think about. I the know the RTH route is easier especially with everything on the market now to woo you in different directions but upgrading those right off the bat is really the way to go. Good luck.
thank you friend.that sheds a little light on things for sure.the issue im runnin into with the rth package is that ive now found a reputable e bay dealer that is selling the rth for 399 new.that 100 bucks cheaper than anywhere else.he doesnt have the bare bow option.everywhere ive found sells the legion without anything for 399 so its the same price.if i can find it bare for cheaper or anyone has suggestions on where to look for a bare bow thats less than 400 so much so it makes it cost effective to outfir it myself i like the idea.we run into the same issues in the pellet rifle world with packages.they make it real cheap but the problem is the accessories that you get are for one,generic so as not of personal preference,n for 2 they are most always of the cheapest quality n seems a good way for companies to get off of less desirable products by fitting them onto a higher end rifle.i do like the idea of the whisker biscut n am glad to know there is more adjustable versions.ive got a couple months before i will be hitting the field so you are right on the money about the quiver.these new carbon arrows seem to be the business.my thoughts are i want an arrow that will pack the biggest broadheads available.i have to stick with the fixed blade cuz here in washington the mechanicals are not legal,i see all the ones you recommend at my local general store.my main question on broadheads now is,i see that muzzy n the g5s that they have at my local store have a little tip at the front,which i assume to be a screw on befor the cutting edges start.my mind leads me to believe that this must be done for durability.am i correct?i really like the looks of the ones i see online that have cutting surface right to the tip.if you or anyone has anymore insight on this subject id be very grateful.bn i have almost 3 months the way i read it of blackbear season b4 deer opens up i def. want a broadhead that will do the most damage possible,of course though durability is up there in priority also due to the high cost of those suckers.now one other question that has came to mind is,it seems that theres dif. lengths of what i believe are call fletchings>the feather thing on the rear,soory as stated b4 i am completely new to all this.now i also see something called a flu flu.this seems to be more of a traditional style fletching.is this something i need to consider?im sure i will not be a dead eye overnight but id just as soon get the best projectiles i can afford so as to cut out as many variiables besides the shooter as possible.ive also come to notice that sights can get awful spendy when going to the higher end.i guess this is something to do with thinner pins and more fiber optic material?i dont know what else to look for really.i noticed while shooting the rth package at cabelas that the peep sight on my string was quite large.now ive shot a few firearms with peep sights so this is not completely new to me but i have worries as to such a large peep sight.is this something that can be procured,as far as a smaller diameter?and is that something that is sought after by experienced bow hunters?soory,i too get long winded.i get awful excited about all the prospects of this new found sport.i cant believe i have not payed it more mind in the past.well again thanks for any advice.
Well, if you feel you need to go through the ebay dealer I would say buy that one strip it, sell the accessories and replace them all, partially funded by what you made back. May as well keep the quiver it comes with at this point and the Stabilizer may not be bad. In a hunting rig they are mainly just for vibration anyway. I'm not going to tell you what to do but going to a pro shop is really the way to go when buying a bow. The support is there and often times if you have a problem you can go in and they will just fix it and send you on your way. If you have a problem and bought the bow off ebay you will be on you will have no support system in place to get you back on track. Yes carbon arrows are definitely the way to go. Pretty much any arrow will accommodate any broad head its just a matter of how you want your set up. I go with a 125 grain weight because that puts my front of center balance where I want it and with me being on the line between two different spines it pushes me more into the heavier spine. I am not sure of the G5 construction never used them. From looking at pictures most look to have a solid steel or aluminum ferrule so doesn't look like the tips screw on. There are broadheads that have those features though. The broadheads you are talking about that have the cutting edges all the way to the tip are called cut on contact (COC) heads. COC will give you the greatest penetration and in many instances the most durability because they often have less parts and are 1 piece broad heads. I love a good COC head. Really nothing not to love about them. Check out the NAP Hellrazor. Probably right up your ally. As far as looking for doing tons of damage I guess just look at the cutting diameter. For the most part the bigger the diameter the bigger the hole. I don't really have much to say on the fletchings. I have used several different types and have never noticed a difference. I have used 2"Blazers, 4"Vanetec, 2"fusions, and another one that the name escapes me right now. I ended up sticking with the 4" Vanetecs because they are cheap and durable. As you get into the higher end sights you basically hit the nail on the head. Plus some have aids to help make sure you are anchoring the same way every time. Also, higher end sights will be made of stronger and lighter material. I think its important not to over think sights. Yes they are important but if it comes down to it you can mount a toothpick on your bow and use it too aim. Thats why I say just go with a solid, affordable sight such as the Trophy Ridge Hitman. On the peep I would try to get one that at full draw the peep outlines the ring around the sights. If you have one that is too big you can move your anchor point around and still be able to see the all the sights, too small you can't see what your aiming at. That is something you can get aftermarket. If I were you I would definitely make a trip to a local pro shop. They can show you everything we are talking about and it will make a lot more sense. Hopefully you have a good one that the employees there will let you pick their brain. I strongly encourage you to do this and hopefully buy from a local shop. Not only can they show you what you need they can also really help in a pinch if your bow is damaged or an accessory or string breaks. I was originally going to buy a bow online but after reading so many bad stories on here I decided to go the local shop route. It is so nice to be able to walk in hand the guy your bow and tell him what its doing then he takes it fixes the problem or sometimes tells me to shoot it and tells me what I'm doing wrong then I'm on my way with no charge. Also, just for future reference you may want to ask a little more direct questions about things when you start a thread. For instance just ask about releases, or just arrows. You will probably get more responses. And most guys on here are way more knowledgeable than I am. If you ask more pointed questions they will be more likely to answer. Also, the search function is your friend.
thank you again.im def going to hit the closest thing we got to a pro shop 2morrow.i got my funds coming in in the mornin n want to make the most educated purchase possible.
As a newer guy myself. im loving my Hoyt CRX 32 which is kinda pricey but not terrible. a lot of guys here use matthews. I WAS going to buy a bear bow and quickly scratched that idea. the Hoyt feels much better and when i let an arrow go (even up to 25 yards so far) ive been nailing the center ring and keeping my shots within inches of each other. IF you can pull 70 lbs numerous times without getting tired, go for it. I on the other hand am smaller and dont have those back muscles tuned yet. so my practice poundage for now is at 45/50. Aside from all the labels n logos. if you can hit your target well at 35 yards with over 60 lbs, then id say run with it as long as your arrows arent slow and your bow is quiet.
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