Lately I have been looking at the classifieds for used arrows. Just about every used arrow I see for sale is less than 28" (nock throat to insert). It got me to wondering about what a "common" arrow length is. My shortest arrow is 29" (shaft length) and longest is 30". My DL is 29" and I like my arrows a bit on the long side so that I can facilitate the tuning by lowering DW. What arrow length do you use with your DL? Why do you use that particular arrow length?
I use a 30" arrow with my DL just under 28"...... The reason I have my arrows long is for the added weight!
28" DL, 27.5 inch arrow...not a preferrence, just how they were sold to me...and tune well out my bow.
Bruce: If I remember correctly, my compound DL on most bows was 28.5"...and 29" on a couple others (all within the same Mfr.....go figure). I shot 27.5" arrows. No legitimate answer as to why...other than....that's just the length I shot (idiot to tuning bows, then...I was!).
I have a 29" DL, and shoot 29" hunting arrows, and 30" target arrows. I can shoot as short as a 27" arrow, but never have, sense what i have works just fine. As for why...when i bought my first set of arrows, i thought, 29" DL ment 29"arrows.
DL= 29" My arrows are 28 1/2" I'm right on the border in arrow stiffness, so I got the weaker spined one and shortened it a bit to make it perform a bit stiffer.... ... I think that makes sense???
Makes a lot of sense . That is one of the reasons I asked these questions, to see how many folks have an arrow length related to the tuning of the bow and arrow or an arrow length "just because".
My arrow length varies so I can get that perfectly spined arrow for the set up I am using. I have used arrows from 25" to uncut full lenght. My current arrows are full lenght GT's 3555 traditionals. My DL is 27" on Trad and 28" on the training wheel bows:p
DL 29" but I think my arrows are 27.5". I wanted more weight up front so I stayed with a shorter arrow to make the spine match work better.
It really depends on shaft material IMHO. Pure aluminun and carbon aluminum shafts have always tuned best for me when I could get the front node to be directly on top of the rest launcher. Pure carbon seems to react differently on the shot though and node tuning doesn't seem to matter as much in my testing. With pure carbon I tend to have best accuracy cut 1/4"-1/2" in front of the blade/launcher/biscuit. That is where I cut my carbons to now right out of the gate. If I need to tune for spine, I really don't want to do this by changing draw weight. Especially on my target bows where I'm used to and want a specific holding weight. Also changing draw weight can and will change draw length on most bows, and a 1/4" tweak in DL by dropping/adding weight is usually the difference between a great holding pattern/sight picture, and not holding well at all. Because of this, I choose to fine tune spine of the arrow using add on point weights. To be honest, I won't shoot an arrow unless there are components available to adjust point weight. I'll use my point weight wrench, and have a stash of hundreds of 10, 20, and 50 grain weights and I'll dial things in with those if need be. If I can't get the spine figured out with the weights, then I'm using the wrong shaft. JMHO. And if you are looking for some used shafts, shoot me a PM. I've got a TON and will likely be cleaning most of them out pretty soon.
My draw length is 26". My hunting arrows are 29"-29.25" long. My bowfishing arrows are 32". Big heavy, long shafts are where it's at. :D Seriously, I keep the length to add weight and also if I put a heavier tip on (125 grain) it seems to noodle up the spine a bit for me. Otherwise the shafts are overspined for the wuss poundage I'm pulling.
My draw length is 29" and my arrows are 27 7/8" to the throat. All the arrow rests that I've used in the past 8 years have the launcher/containment device behind the arrow shelf... i.e. Hostage Pro, Ripcord, Trophy Taker, Drop Zone. At full draw the tip of my broadhead sits in front of the riser. The only arrows that I have longer are the arrows I use when I shoot Magnus Bullheads for turkeys... this is so that the broadhead sits well beyond the riser at full draw.
29.5" draw and 29" arrow but I will tweak the length for each bow/rest setup that I have and depending on where the spine comes out for the combination. If it's a little on the weak side (lower half of the spine range for a given combination) I'll keep the arrow as short as possible right up to the rest (with the bow backed as hard as possible into the wall to make sure the arrow can't be drawn past the rest). Otherwise I'll just keep them 1/2" to 1" in front of the rest. I'm like RJ in that I don't like to tweak the holding weight once I get a good balance of holding weight and draw length to provide a solid aim. Few people realize what a little tweak in your draw length can do to your holding pattern.
