Justin, How are you establishing center shot? How far from the riser are you for center shot? I found that Elite's tend to push center shot out away from the riser more than most bows... I wonder if it's something to do with the twin track binary cam?
Using an EZ Center Laser tool to establish the centershot. Should I be using some other method? Looks like around 3/4" or just a hair under from the riser. Tried a 125 gr point with basically the same results. Bare shafts are hitting about 2" left at 20 yards, which isn't terrible, but I'm getting a pretty good tail right both on the bare shaft and through paper. Not quite sure if it's a rest/centershot issue, or arrow spine. Might try some walk-back tuning after work to see how things look.
When I use the laser I run it up and down the string to the cam track and then run it down the length of the arrow. Just to see what happens, slide your rest about 1/16 to the left and use the 125gr point. If that brought your impacts together I would call it done.
If you have a draw board try running the laser on the cam track as the draw gets to the break over point and see where that is for center shot in comparison to the not drawn (static) position. The cam lean on my BowTechs taught me to set center shot with the cam at peak load and I find I get better results with all my bows there. I think Elite says 3/4 to 7/8 is what you should be at. Also check your cam timing at the same point in the draw cycle. I believe the timing marks on Elite cams are still set for comparison at full draw which is better than static but not as good as at the peak energy transfer.
I would move the rest to the left chasing the bare shaft with my fletched arrows. For 2", it won't take much, like 1/16" or so. That will get them hitting with them. Then you could move to 30yards and verify your still hitting with the bareshafts. Then, throw some BH's one and move back to 30-50 yards, and see if the results coorelate.
I know... I'm long winded but... The whole purpose of going through the bare shaft planing test is to verify how your arrows are leaving your bow. The way they protrude from the target can be viewed as a “meter” of sorts. Eyeballing is a good place to start; however, true center shot is not necessarily the centerline of your riser or even of the cams or string. Even using a fancy lazar will not give you what you are really after. It is a good place to start for those not comfortable using the eyeball method. The ultimate proof is in the target. Speaking of targets (poor memory), a bag target is not reliable for bare shaft testing. You want a good, foam target with consistent density. True “center shot” is probably NOT the centerline of the bow. It is the center of force being applied to your shaft. Raising or lowering nock position or raising or lowering your rest position will change the vertical line of pressure. Moving the rest towards the riser or away from the riser changes the horizontal line of pressure. NO BOW HAS PERFECT CENTER SHOT REGARDLESS OF BRAND NAME! You are trying to get the best performance from your archery “system”. That is why starting with a properly spined shaft (the relative resistance to deflection or bending) is so important. I believe we have established (for the time being) your shafts are of the correct spine. Start by adjusting the vertical position of either the nock point or of the height of the rest until the arrows are striking as level as possible. The Berger button hole, once again, is only a reference point and not the Holy Grail of where the arrow should be traveling. Many folks will start with the arrow passing through the center of the hole (optically speaking) when viewing the riser from the side. There is no rule set in stone the arrow must be there when finished. After you are shooting well, record the measurement of how high your nock wound up being for future reference. Do not freak out over the dimesions, just record them. Then, adjust your rest in or out to change the way in which the arrows stick out of the target until they are as straight as they can be. Then mark your rest so you can see when and if anything moves in the future. Once you get your shafts protruding straight from the target, then compare fletched to unfletched groups. Don’t be surprised if they group together as I think your arrow shafts are going to be OK Would you rather please some dude on the range because your arrow/Berger button hole relationship is “good” or wax his score? My (and most folks’) major problem is not equipment but correct, consistent technique; starting with, but by no means limited to the twisting of the riser by the archer’s hand. Inconsistent interface between the bow and archer produces most of the archery headaches in the world. If archer interface is inconsistent, all bets are off. A properly tuned bow minimizes operator error. Too bad it doesn’t fix it!
