Ok so. I have absolutely no clue on arrow weight/speed. So the not knowing has inspired me to do some math. And I'm not extra sure what I am looking at. I shoot beman ics hunters cut to 26 inches. 8.4 GPI overall my arrow weight should be around 371.4? I shoot an elite Hunter, 323 fps the calculator I found online shows my KE around 85.95xxx and the momentum being 0.532xxx. is this average? Do I need to be lighter/heavier? 400spine arrow. Thanks sorry this is so jumbled. My brains a little scrambled after the math
Here is what you need to provide to get an answer that worth anything .... Bow : Elite Hunter Bow draw weight :? Arrow: Bemen ICS Arrow length: 26” Point weight : ? Insert weight : ?
Assuming your numbers aren't wrong you're on the light side for sure. Look at arrow weight in terms of grains per pound of draw. At 70 anything under 6gpp is light if we forget the decimal points you're at 5. That's minimum recommend by the manufacturer. Weight is one of the biggest factors in producing penetrating force which is key in a hunting arrow. Mainstream is about 7 or 8 gpp. So for you that's a 500grain arrow. Problem is you'll need to change that shaft inorder to get the right spine. So if you just bought them and don't want to spend more focus on a really efficient broadhead with solid swept back blades and a really good tune. Change it up when you can. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Draw weight is roughly 63# I believe 100 grain feildtips/broadhead. Honestly couldn't tell you insert weight I went off the Google average.
As far as tune goes I feel like I'm in good shape. Bow shoots extremely well in my opinion. My choice of broadhead is the "knock off" rage
Ok your fine in so far as arrow spine for your set up, the hunter cams where/are soft as butter tuned nicely with weak spined shafts. The gentleman above gave you good advise. Follow it.
Oh man. Now why would you shoot knockoffs? Aside from that, the worst thing you can do to the force of your arrow is put a wide cutting head with bendy blades (breaking is better than bending). That combination in a bad situation will rob you of what you need to get the kill. You don't have to spend allot to have an efficient broadhead. Look at Magnus stingers or zwickey Eskimo. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
They where a gift from my brother in law. I have some older 100 grain fixed blades. Unsure the brand or name I think a couple are thunderheads? I'm just unsure on the whole tuning it for fixed blades. If I tune it for the fixed blades will it throw my feild points off? I'm so sorry for all the ignorant questions boys. I'm in my second year of bow hunting and still trying to learn. Thanks for your patience
That's actually a very good question. Done properly your fields points and broadheads will shoot the same within typical hunting range. Getting there isn't always easy but I'll tell you that what you will learn in achieving that goal will never need to be relearnt for as long as you hunt because it's the right way. It all starts with setting your bow in factory spec then choosing the right spine of arrow. Choosing the right arrow comes from setting specific goals. Not sure if my signature works on this site but there's a link to a flowchart that outlines how to get you there. (If not PM me). Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
I sent you a pm. As far as arrow manufacturer specs, I am withen the correct spine arrow. Actually just double checked that today at my local shop. I just want to be as correct as I can in my gear. And the not knowing makes me want to learn it all lol
Yes the spine is okay for the point weight you chose but I'd recommend increasing that when you can. For now avoiding those knockoff rage's would be good. Take a look at the flowchart and the rest of the information in that folder. I think you'll find more than enough to guide you into he right direction. Reach out whenever you have questions. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
I tried those (knock off) and they suck. You should not be shooting too many more that 3-6 broadheads a season and straight from the package and Sharp is the best. Lots of great styles and brands out there. I shot rage for years but didn't like the rubber keeping them tight.
Ok 28 X 8.4 = 218.4 + 100 (point) = 318.4 + 21 (standard insert) = 339.4 + 18 (6 grains if blazer for vanes) = 357.4 + 13 (nock) = 370.4 That should be close may need to add some more if you have wraps or lighted nocks. At 63# IBO standards of 5 grains per lb would be 315 so you are good there. 370 is not horrible but these days I shoot for around 425 to 450 grains. You are however fine with 370 if you hit the vitals and have a decent broadhead. In regards to tuning. Look up walk back tuning on YouTube. Lots of videos that explain how to do that. That should get you close. Next you want to do broadhead tuning. You should expect for your broadheads to group within an inch or less of your field points unless you have some other issues once tuned. John Dudley explains walk back tuning here: Broadhead tuning Hope this helps.
Also be advised when broadhead tuning just focus on a good shot and grouping the arrows. Once they group to your satisfaction then you can go back and fine tune and set your sights.
Choose a good broadhead that's reputable and fixed blade and don't worry about the the other, your arrow setup is fine.
Ok so I lucked into a set of G5 montecs and man they fly great! That you guys so much! Any one else on this thread shoot them?
So I had my bow adjusted and tuned up a little better and man! What a difference! I've also decided to go with a different broadhead! G5 montec. Fly's true picture is at 20 yards thanks so much guys! I appreciate it!! picture is from 20 yards
Make sure you really sharpen those well. Not to discourage you but those are know to not hold an edge very well. Should be fine on small and medium sized deer. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
Small or medium sized deer? This seems like an average deer to me? This is my #1 hit Lister lol I don't wanna shoot to wound will this broadhead do the trick? Any recommendations on sharping them?
The problem with lower quality steel is edge retention. What I mean by that is the blades, any blade, starts to lose sharpness on impact and dulls itself as it makes its way through. What you need to ensure is that you've got enough edge left to make a sharp cut all the way till the arrow stops (or goes out the other end). Now, there a few things to consider here. 1) what is not often talked about regarding sharpness is that blood coagulates faster on a jagged cut from a full blade. Coagulation is bad. It allows the animal to survive longer. 2) the duller the blade gets the quicker the arrow stops. The one thing I like about the montec is the design. But just like the downside of the edge retention, the lower grade steel tends to allow it to break which also hugely affects penetration and efficiency thereof. So all that adds up and means as you hit hide, ribs, flesh the blade will dull quickly (unlike a higher quality steel) giving you a full cut by the time you get to where it counts the most; the vitals. And if you hit bone it'll break. If you want a really good three blade with high quality steel that won't break the bank VPA is #1 in my books. Tooth of the arrow is machined from a single piece of high-enough quality steel. I'd also pick that over the montec. Only issue with tooth is I don't like the super steep blade angle. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
