Arrow builds (light versus heavy arrows)

Hey, I’m new to this forum and new to archery hunting, just wrapped up my second season of bow hunting in northern AB. Ended up not filling any tags again with my bow but the trusty 308 filled my whitetail tag.

Although not putting any of these arrow to the test on animals I’m always trying to get the best possible set up for success. I primarily hunt elk and whitetail. But will be possibly going on a moose hunt next year.im currently shooting a HOYT torrex at 70ft pounds (as much as the bow will let me) and a 30inch draw.

my first year I ran gold tip hunter xts 300 spine with 125 g5 montecs up front bring it to a 435gr total arrow. I was running into some issue with how they flew at that time I was only shooting 60 ft pounds and my foc was around 15%. I revisited them in the off season to do some testing. Putting a 100 gr montec on them bringing the foc to 11% but also bringing the weight down to 410 gr total arrow weight. They flew better but still noticed quite a-bit of drift to the right with the fixed blade. They fly at 269fps which is nice. My problem is I think they would be great for deer hunting if I could get them sighted in properly, but I think they may be too light for elk hunting.

this year I switched to a heavy arrow as I told my local bow tech the problems I was having and he suggested a carnage outdoors hades 300 spine, weighing 515 total arrow weight. Sighting in these arrows was a cake walk as they fly pretty similar to my field points up to 50 (with a 100gr g5 montec) the foc on the arrow was 10% which I find they fly super flat. My only problem was the speed. They’re flying at 243 fps, I think that may be to slow especially if I’m stretching shots to 50 yards it takes awhile to get out there.

let me know what you guys think, I’m a advocate for heavier arrows but I think 243 fps is way to slow. I think I need to find an arrow somewhere in the 450-475 total arrow weight to be at a happy medium. Any suggestions would help. I’ve been thinking of switching to a mechanical for deer season with the lighter arrows, but ideally I would like to find a arrow set up that’s good for both and don’t have to resight my bow in the middle of the season.
Thank you in advance!

 

I currently live in Peace river and hunt all around the peace region.

I definitely like the heavier arrow set up but I think I would like to be at that 255-260fps rather than 243fps. Especially for deer I had a miss on a whitetail at 55 yards as it jumped the string pretty heavily.

 

Welcome to the forum. It's a great time to join as the contest is winding down. I personally love this topic. I think every rig has a sweet spot. You need to ensure your rig is tuned and shafts are perfect end products for what you set your bow at. It's not a straight formula. Each variable adjusts the needs of the others. I run right around 525gr with a 250 spine and my bow tuned right in. Fully field ready I try to stay about 260fps but let's face it at short distances like one should stay at it's not too crazy if you have to dip below that.

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55 on a whitetail is pushing it. Too much can go wrong and we bow hunt to enjoy the hunt up close no?

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280 fps-ish ... 430 gr arrow..... 57 lbs Bowtech SR350/30"draw .... Goldtip Velocity XT's 340's cut to 28" ... I'm at 7.5 grs per lb draw weight .... its been over 30 yrs since I shot an arrow that weighed over 450grs ..... I'd go 450-475gr if I was after elk, but 'heavy' arrows are a waste for me and deer .... NEVER lost a deer due to lack of penetration ... NEVER !! (other reasons yes) ....... go mid weight, not 'heavy' .....

 

Lemme start with, lights out heavy, either can and have killed deer and elk.

I think many of us have dabbled here, so I defer to the broader brain trust…but my 2 cents.

I standardized on heavy- elk seem to jump the string less than deer. For deer I want best odds for a full passthru, despite a placement error I may make, a tick of a branch, wind, yardage err…etc. I care less about speed (I’ll take a shorter shot on deer in calm, but in some wind I think the greater mass helps stabilize and deer seem less edgy).

I don’t want 2 different weights or to have to make changes to my setup as I jump from elk season straight to deer.

You mentioned drift out steering issues with fixed pts, foc and tw - you didn’t mention what you have on the back to help steer - I went with a 4 fletch aae max stealth.

My TW is like 515 (125s magnus 4 blades) up front with 1/2 outs, a healthy supply of CX mayhems (no longer made, but had a relatively high GPI), and an old Elite Synergy…I also keep 1 expandable in the quiver if I need to take a longish (for me) follow up, and a judo pt or 2 if I’m out west (cause grouse are good eats). I try to keep all arrows within 1-2 TW pt weight when assembling.

YMMV but welcome.

 

Thank you this was helpful, I have yet to play with different different fletching as the bow shop recommended me with an arrow set up out of the box. So would just be 3 vanes that come standard.

also I have wondered about keeping one mechanical in the quiver for like you said longer shots. I’ve heard others do this but also wondered how you would do it. Do you have your furthest pin sighted in specifically for a mechanical? Also do you notice any difference in your left and right?

 

Welcome to the forum!

I don’t think you should worry about the heavy arrow flying too slow for 50 yards. If you do the math then you’ll see that the light arrow at 269fps takes .55 seconds to hit the target. While the heavy arrow at 243fps takes .61 seconds to hit the target. Personally I don’t think .06 seconds will make much of a difference. Especially since the heavy arrow will be more stable in winds and penetrate much better

I shoot a 65lb prime bow with a 29” draw. I have the warhead tomohawk arrows in 300 spine with G5 deadmeats on the tip. Total arrow weight is 580 and they shoot around 250fps. I’ve killed deer from 7 to 42 yards with that set up and havnt seen a problem. I hope to test them out on a PA elk if I ever get drawn!

 

I shoot with a slider. L or R aren’t an a particular issue, if all is setup properly, other than of there is a cross breeze.

Practicing at distance also clutch, though I’m not doing this as much past 60yds anymore as my vision continues to degrade each year. I may resume shooting to 80-100, once I’ve built my new place and had cataract surgery.