i shoot heavy arrows anyways, but at 32 inches with 125 grain points, those 300s should shoot well at 70#s in general.
also, just for extra reading, i found this pretty interesting on your subject. Finding The Perfect Arrow | Bowhunting Knowledge | Bowhunting.Com
Sounds good here. I have a test pack of FMJ to try coming from three rivers to try with some different tips. I figured I was gonna try them and the reds would be a possible later option for a lighter arrow but I'm thinking I'll be set with the FMJ and won't have to spend any more money after that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So then the 5 grains per pound rule of thumb counts your fletching, inserts, nocks, and tips count in? Not just the shaft weight? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Your over thinking everything. This lower the number in spine the stiffer the arrow. First, you need to decide what grain head you want then select an arrow accordingly. Your draw length can be tough to build arrows too.
I would use Axis 300 with 50 grain brass inserts, Flex-Fletch FFP-360 (or SK-300) vanes. Go get the free trial of pinwheel shaft selector. You can use the stuff I listed (or what you will be using for insert/vanes/etc.) and determine the best length to cut your arrows. It has worked great for me the last 4 bows I made arrows for. FWIW - In the last few years, I have tried several other shafts, over a dozen different vanes and it seems I always got back to the Axis w/ Flex-Fletch (or Trueflight 4" feathers). I had poor luck w/ CX. Note: Easton (as do most companies) uses the spine deflection on their arrows (300/340/400). CX uses a model number not the spine (250/350/450). So the lower the Easton number the stiffer the spine (less deflection). With CX the higher the number the stiffer the spine. CX has the spine (deflection) of their arrows on the website. OR if you want to do it easy and very good, contact Jerry at south shore archery and order what he says......you will be happy. I hope this helps.
I think you may be getting spine and weight confused. Spine is the amount and arrow will flex over a standard length of shaft and standard weight. So the smaller the number, the less an arrow will flex / bend. For your bow, you want at minimum a .340 spine. If you go to .400 that means your arrow is flexing too much and can break. You could go to a .300 depending on your shaft length and tip weight, but not having enough flex is also bad (can be hard to tune). Weight: The minimum weight you can shoot from a bow is 5 grains per draw weight pound. This is the finished weight of the arrow that includes nock, insert, fletching, and tip. Since you are shooting 70 pounds, you will need a 350 grain arrow minimum. Going under will be similar to dry firing. Most "professionals" claim that a 6 to 8 grain per pound is perfect for whitetails, and really most North American game. You may want a little more for something larger like an elk, but I live in Indiana and we don't have those here. My opinion based on your setup: use a 30.5" or 31" arrow from throat of the nock to the end of the shaft. Secondly, I would shoot an arrow around 430ish grains (finished weight). That will be one heck of a punch. The easton axis will be a very fitting arrow. Full metal jackets are very good arrows but heavier than I like.
Thanks for the comments, i was getting those confused. Your post really cleared things up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Gold Tip Pro Hunters are nice. Gold Tip Velocity XT is a good strong arrow also. It's a lighter shaft but that is a good thing in my opinion, because you can add more weight up to the front of the arrow with the FACT system screw in weights. This creates a higher FOC and the added weight at the front makes for better penetration due to kinetic energy.
