Any Advice on Elk Hunting Montana/Colorado

Also, we both may be able to get away with smaller packs in general by splitting the load on a lot of things in the packs. The things we only need one set of.

I love the thought of a small light pack on my back. I hate the thought of trying to lug out 300lbs of meat without a good pack. You may have to bury me somewhere on top of a mountain.

I forgot to tell you, I'm swallowing the car keys on Day 1. That way you can't just leave me out there. LOL

 

Maybe one of these more experienced guys can tell us about their packs..Do they have a meat compartment? If not, how do they pack meat out?

Do you just throw it on the back of the pack, strap it down, and hope for the best?

 

Someone explain this point system. I get that you have to draw for certain big game species but what I don't get is what regions do you select.
Is there regions that are superior and others that are a waste?
How much does a draw cost?
Do you only get one point for each submitted draw?
Is there a minimum number of points you have to have to draw certain species?
Do you find out if you got the tag at a reasonable time so you can plan a hunt?

 

IMO, you are making a wise decision not going to CO. Nothing like having a muzzleloader season right in the middle of the rut and 11,000 other OTC hunters in your area. :D

Here are my $.02 as an outfitter. As for a 30% success rate, that is, well... decent at best for hunting with an outfitter. What is the opportunity rate, hopefully it's higher than the success rate. The outfitter can't control if guys miss, don't shoot, or if the bull makes it to range but doesn't present a shot etc. So more important to me (if I was the hunter) is how many hunters had opportunities? The Non-resident average for success in Colorado, Wyoming and Montana hovers around 15%. If it were me, I would try to find an area that isn't loaded with wolves (at least for your first hunt), which correlates to higher elk populations.

As for the price of $4,200, that's definitely a decent price, but most archery hunts are 6 full days of hunting. The 2-on-1 thing is pretty standard for rifle hunts, but a little different for archery hunts. If I'm guiding hunters, I will only do 2-on-1 hunts with guys that know each other. It can be a miserable experience if you are stuck with a guy that is out of shape, or just an overall PITA... it can seriously ruin your hunt. 9/10 hunters that go on an elk hunt are physically unprepared when they arrive, even if they think they are prepared. Another thing that I would ask, is that if you are on a 2 on 1 hunt and the other guy kills a bull, do they have packers to come get the animal or does that cut into your hunting time because your guide has to go to camp, get pack animals and then take the animal out? Also, have you asked them for references? I would ask them for both successful and non-successful references and call them.

Please don't take this the wrong way, I'm not trying to talk you out of anything, but by the time it's all said and done with the hunt fee, flight, tags, tips and random purchases you'll be close to $6,500 or more for the hunt. There are lots of outfitters with higher success rates, offer 1-on-1, 6-day hunts, etc. Before you drop that kind of coin, make sure you are giving yourself the best opportunity.

 

As far as a purpose built elk pack I would not get anything that did not have an internal frame that I can bring meat out with. Strapping meat to a pack like this generally consists of a wing system and external straps or internal pockets that will allow the meat to sit closer to your back. Badlands, Tenzing, and Eberlestock are all good medium range pack companies to check out. For a higher end pack I would look at Mystery Ranch, Kifaru, or Stone Glacier (as OK/Sooner mentioned). The Sitka pack that I had was a fantastic pack but was, unfortunately, not built for meat hauling.

 

There are two types of point systems, bonus points and preference points. The most common type is preference points. Limited quota tags are distributed to the individuals with the most preference points. Typically you get one point per year, either by applying for a license/tag and being unsuccessful or by simply purchasing a point in the correct time of the year. Most of these points are good in the entire state and not for a specific region/unit/area of that state. Obviously, certain parts of each state are better, whether it is for bigger animals, more animals, public access or ease of hunting. The more highly sought after areas typically require more points to draw the tag because they are more desirable.

Most states announce their draw results in the Spring or Summer so you should have time to plan your hunt.

 

Meat Plan:
In the bottom of the main compartment of my pack.
Butcher Lite Set
Zip Lock Bag with Heavy Rubber Gloves / 2 pairs
Folded Tarp
Alaska Game Bags
Para Cord
One Large Pillow Case (custom made) Style Tarp with Draw String Top. (This is to minimize blood mess for loads)
Debone in the Field
Bag & Hang in Shade / Para Cord
Bag Meat into Tarp Slip Cover Bag
Load Pack for Trip #1

 

Thanks for the input Dubbya, we did decide on going to Colorado. The distance and the price is right. We'll do an early season hunt and be back in Michigan before anyone picks up a Muzzleloader,(Sept. 14). So, we might not get them in the rut, but before every knucklehead with a smoke stick hits the woods, we'll be out of the state.

Yes, the odds are definitely against us, we're going into a state that we've never set foot in, climbing a hill that we've only seen on Google Maps and we're hoping to walk out with an animal the size of a Buick. :p

We may not get a chance to harvest one, but then again, we just might. Either way, it'll be a trip of a lifetime for me.

 

You definitely have the right mindset, I wish you guys all the best. Going before the muzzleloader season is huge and... the moon may be in your favor this year (it's on the 8th). At least where we are, the 10-14 days surrounding the full moon have been fantastic in the past few years. From my own experience in Colorado, it was the same.

Good luck!!

 

When packing weight (any weight whether it is meat or not) you want to think high and tight. You want it closer to your back rather than strapped to the outside of the back of the pack. You also want it as high in the main compartment as you can get it. (from mid back to up between shoulder blades is perfect). This optimizes the suspension of your pack. Too low and the load suspender straps become useless, too far away from your back and it makes you lean forward too far to compensate.

Everyone prefers different things out of packs. I prefer a hybrid external frame (not the big gaudy ones like offered by Barneys). I chose the Bikini frame from Kifaru. This allows amazing weight carrying capacity, but also gives you the option to switch out bags for different hunts or as new ones hit the market.

 

You have the right mindset - I have no doubt you'll enjoy every bit of this trip - Good Luck!
I will add that 3 of the 4 years I have been to CO I have overlapped the Muzzleloader season...and have yet to see a muzzleloader hunter or hear a shot fire (not even a discharge fire). One season there was an early season rifle cow in...I did see 2 hunters very close to the road, but all the others were in orange driving roads in their trucks...that seems to be the preferred method for resident rifle hunters. I'm sure every unit is different as you do hear horror stories about Muzzleloaders, but our OTC unit is Steep/Rugged and heavily timbered...not what most gun hunters want...but the Elk sure seem to like it Again, that 1-1.5 mile mark from roads seems to really limit 90+% of the hunters(bowhunters and all). I also see the appeal of muzzleloader as I have had multiple opportunities each of my 4 seasons at easy muzzleloader ranges (all 70yds or less).

For your online scouting - just a couple of my own observations in Elk country...I use both areal and topo to look for these:
-Northern facing slopes (especially with you going early, south facing can get scorching hot in sun)
-water source (even the smallest springs can be dynamite as they run down an entire mountainside, these can be harder to find on Google earth, but often times are the small lines in timber you can see - much like the pic? you posted earlier)
-Dense timber that is not easily accessed (distance from road, but also surrounded by some steep topography)

Two more thoughts - for me anyway:
-Elk hunting has been nothing like you see on TV or videos. Most likely you are not going to call a bull across a wide open meadow from your perfect hiding spot. Have bow in hand - very good chance you have only seconds to make it happen - if I was making a TV show this year I would have gotten maybe 15 seconds of footage on my kill...if your bow or arrows are on your back, no chance.
-I used to start high in morning to see and hear better, but have much better luck starting low and coming from side or below elk...morning thermals flow heavy down the steep slopes late into the morning, took me a few busted elk to catch on to that

The only problem I see with going the first week - is that if you return home with an un-punched elk tag - you'll have 3 more weeks of staring at it knowing you could jet back out for one more crack at them before season ends

 

Thats another thing I was going to ask was about thermals. Around here its all flat really so in the morning thermals rise no problem. But your saying they flow down the hills pretty good? For me my thought would be to start high in the mornings then work down using the rising thermals to your advantage. But then again im just a flat lander so im not sure how they work in the mountains.

 

If you start high then all of your early morning thermals are pulling down hill. Its a tight line to walk, I like to be up high so I can hear and send out location bugles but generally an uphill approach is best early in the morning.

 

I'm assuming you guys all shoot quiver on?

I used to while whitetail hunting, but got away from it a few years ago. Shouldn't be a major issue once I get the bow zoned back in.

 

I leave mine on. If I were set up on a wallow or something I may take it off. From what I have experienced while elk hunting is they come out of no where and you shoot. It's about that fast

 

My limited experience is this - for north facing slopes:
-if sunny day, it's 10:00am or later before notice any upward thermal
-if overcast, it's into the afternoon before thermals heading up

 

My first year I had quiver attached to pack as that is what I had been doing for years with whitetail...and I practiced all summer with it, so I could pull an arrow out very fast - BUT, the big issue was I would do this 10's of times a day, and essentially had to take pack off if I wanted to get broadhead and arrow put back into quiver properly/securely. That next year I got new bow and went back to my early days of bolt on 2 piece quiver that cannot be removed...have grown to love it.

I even feel the extra movement to get arrow off back this year could have cost me my bull - with quiver on bow I was able to get arrow and load all in front of me and concealed by my own outline.

All options can work though - high confidence is all that matters.

 

Alright I will keep that in mind, could of screwed up a few chances trying that approach.