Antler King Mini Max Plot

Discussion in 'Food Plots & Habitat Improvement' started by greatwhitehunter3, Aug 20, 2013.

  1. bgusty

    bgusty Weekend Warrior

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    How is that plot looking now? Any updates?
     
  2. jake_

    jake_ Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Ya got anything for us?
     
  3. greatwhitehunter3

    greatwhitehunter3 Grizzled Veteran

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  4. jake_

    jake_ Die Hard Bowhunter

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    looks good to me! thanks.
     
  5. KillerC

    KillerC Weekend Warrior

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    Anything munching on this yet?
     
  6. greatwhitehunter3

    greatwhitehunter3 Grizzled Veteran

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    I don't have a camera on it but there seems to be a little going on. I have a mineral site in the middle so they seem to be hitting that yet more than anything. However, the first row of corn, 75 yards away, has no ears left. Dang deer. Soon as more of the corn comes out it will get much better.
     
  7. greatwhitehunter3

    greatwhitehunter3 Grizzled Veteran

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    2014 Update:

    Here is the plot this late winter/early spring before touching it - 4/15/14
    [​IMG]

    This is after raking the plot - same day. 25lb of 0-0-60 was spread and Antler King Trophy Clover added
    [​IMG]

    Here is the plot on 5/17/14 - should have mowed here but had zero time with planting and spraying
    [​IMG]

    Here is the plot as of last night - 5/29/14 before mowing
    [​IMG]

    After mowing - this is just an experiment for me. I mowed all four edges and one path through the middle and left the rest.. for now
    [​IMG]

    Going back in time with my equipment
    [​IMG]

    This plot has turned into a ton of grass and weeds but there is also a lot of clover in there. As mentioned, this is an experiment for me more than anything. Trying different mowings (above, gas mower, trimmer), timing and etc.,. Not sure if i'll try any herbicide at any time or not.
     
  8. jake_

    jake_ Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Looks good. Thanks for the update.

    Keep in mind that there is 9% boost perennial rye grass in that Mini Max mix.

    But what you are doing is the exact thing I do to my clover plot mainly and recommend doing for years to come. Frost seed in the spring, hit it with some 0-0-60 and keep up with the mowings.

    I also mow mine different each time like a few strips one week and a few the other week and use a folair fertilizer. I broadcast about 40-80lbs of pelletized lime each year.

    Doing that method for a few years and on year 5(i think) I sprayed for grasses(grass beater by Bonide at Fleet Farm @ 2 oz per gallon) and this year I sprayed for broadleafs weeds(24-d-B at 2-3 oz per gallon) last weekend. Once in a great while I will spot spray round up on the bigger weeds. Thing is with spot spraying if you get some round up on the existing clover, it will knock it back and the stuff you frost seeded that spring fill it in.
     
  9. SharpEyeSam

    SharpEyeSam Legendary Woodsman

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    Looks good!
     
  10. greatwhitehunter3

    greatwhitehunter3 Grizzled Veteran

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    Decided to mow entire area this afternoon. I will now mow in different intervals, either two or three timings.
    [​IMG]

    Sent from my SCH-I200 using Tapatalk
     
  11. nutritionist

    nutritionist Weekend Warrior

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    A couple of tidbits..
    Plant foods you can't call fertilizers. Picky yes, but legally no.
    Glyphosate and most herbicides work well when weed growth is at early stages, so so at 12-24 " growth and nothing works well when seed heads are formed. All you can expect is to supress the weed growth.

    You don't want to clip anything very short as it supresses new growth. Rule of thumb is to always take only 1/2 the plant down if possible and never below 6-8 inches from ground.
     
  12. jake_

    jake_ Die Hard Bowhunter

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    I been cutting my clover plots with my zero turn mower set all the way up at like 5 inchs tall for 6 years now and no problems. Also for the last 40+ years the hay fields(close to 100 acres) here on our farm (basically the same stuff in clover/alfalfa mixes) has been getting cut from 2-3 feet tall down to 3-4 inchs with the haybine 2-3 times a year with no issues.

    So to say to "never" take these plants down below six to eight inches I dont believe.

    I say clip/cut/mow/push away with what ever equipment you got.
     
  13. Matt

    Matt Grizzled Veteran

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    Doesn't the 24D kill the clover?
     
  14. jake_

    jake_ Die Hard Bowhunter

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    24-d does kill clover yes, but 24-d "b" does not. Butyrac 200 is another name for 24-d-b.

    One use of 24-d is for your lawn as it kill broadleafs like clover and dandelions but dont harm the grasses. I just used it on a few acres of lawn here and the 24-d knocked out my dandelions and clover in my lawn.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2014
  15. greatwhitehunter3

    greatwhitehunter3 Grizzled Veteran

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    Yup we just did that to my brother in law's lawn.

    And I personally don't think cutting at this height will hurt it at all bit time will tell.

    Sent from my SCH-I200 using Tapatalk
     
  16. jake_

    jake_ Die Hard Bowhunter

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    ^ i agree.

    I should get some pictures of one of my friends small plot in front of his house. Basically his septic drain field area about 25 yards by 30 yards he planted some Trophy Clover on it and I have never seen it get over 6 inchs tall the last 4 years. It is right next to his father in laws hay fields so it gets fertilized and limed and sprayed like the big time farmers and plus he takes care of it.
     
  17. nutritionist

    nutritionist Weekend Warrior

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    Well, if one chooses to take to the ground, it does affect regrowth. I'll save people my background but let's say i've been involved with research and consulted for many of the early grazers. If one thinks they are successful taking any plants to the ground, so be it. But there are many articles that will refute that practice. I'll defer to simple sound agronomic practices and how plants actually grow.

    I'm happy to share 100's of articles that will support my recommendations. There is zero reason to ever take any plants to the ground or near the ground. No matter if we are taking corn, soybeans, clovers, grasses....
     
  18. greatwhitehunter3

    greatwhitehunter3 Grizzled Veteran

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    I actually work on an ag experiment station where we do just that, experiment. We do all kinds of studies with everything imaginable that grows in MN from every cover crop to weeds to cash crops. I've seen zero negative effect from cutting low. Will it hinder it some? Maybe. But are the results still acceptable, absolutely.

    Like I mentioned above, this is an experiment of my own. All I am here to do is show what I am doing so others can see why or why not to do it.
     
  19. jake_

    jake_ Die Hard Bowhunter

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    Please share some of your background/articles so we get to know you more. I am just saying what I seen/heard about with farming practices that I never seen people leave hay/corn/soybean fields at 6-8 inchs above the ground ever. I am not claiming to know much, but questioning you that is all. So if you want to prove me wrong and every farm field in Wisconsin that I drive by then prove me wrong.

    Thing is some people try to make plotting more complicated then it has to be and compare it to full scale farmers, when actually 95% of the guys out there are scratching up a 1/2 acre or less and will get by with general practices.
     
  20. nutritionist

    nutritionist Weekend Warrior

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    Basic simple all species plant info:

    Carbohydrate storage patterns:
    Plants get the energy needed for growth from the sun through photo-synthesis which occurs in green leaves. The plant immediately converts this energy to carbohydrates which can either be used right away for growth or stored in the roots for
    future use. In the fall most of these carbohydrates are stored as plants ready themselves for winter. In spring these carbohydrates are used to provide energy for early regrowth. At some point (usually at about 6 to 8 inches tall) plants are large enough and photosynthesizing enough to provide energy for growth plus have additional carbohydrates for storage.
    After grazing, these stored carbohy-drates provide energy for regrowth until the plant is once again large enough to provide for itself through photosynthesis. This cycle repeats with each grazing until growth ceases in fall. Managing these carbohydrate
    cycles is the key to vigorous, long lasting stands. Grazing too frequently does not allow for replenishment of
    root reserves which weakens plants,slows recovery, and lowers yields.

    Clipping too short and the age old rule of thumb in the grazing community basically is based on how plants growth, trying to maximize tonnage per acre. This is especially true to food plot people who typically have small plots and many deer per square mile. When doing experiments for ruminants I look for milk per acre for dairy and for deer i want to grown the most crude protein, digestible energy, and maximum amount of minerals per acre as possible and do it as economically as can be.

    We aren't talking about corn and bean fields as they are annuals that we are not clipping/grazing typically. Hay fields are another story. The smart managers leave more stubble as they understand regrowth but also your looking for invitro digestion caused by lower lignins. All plant lignins are higher as one gets closer to the ground (9the undigestible fiber portion of any plant)

    I consulted with many of the early graziers, one of which was the first discovery farm in Wisconsin. My research, was various and many of the things people plant for deer, was dabbled with on the dairy farm level way before the deer people got involved with it. I planted puna chicory, turnips and kura clover about 23 years ago and many of the clovers were all experimented with back then. Many of the concepts the grazing community has looked at for many many years can be applied and should be applied to deer plot management. Sward density i don't believe many use.

    On this site and other, i've been posting some of the stuff i've been working on and have applied over the years. I think it's time more of it crosses over to the deer community. My past mistakes lead to many of my recommendations.
     

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