Pet peeve rant... Why do archery companies sell $1000 pieces of equipment then cheap out and put regular steel screws on it that rust over after one week in the field? Seems like an easy way for sight/bow/rest/etc companies to set themselves apart from the competition by making stainless/titanium parts standard. I've replaced all bolts with stainless counterparts on my last two rigs, but it was time consuming to match them all up exactly, and anytime I replace an accessory I have to repeat the process. 7 days on a coastal bear hunt and your bow looks like a 1950s truck. My Scott release seized up completely on that trip.
You must be bouncing between the other forum and here. I'm bored too Towards the topic: I agree 100%. Nothing pisses me off more to drop $300 on a sight and rest combo and have it totally rust out after one trip. I wish I had the capital and resources to build my own archery gear.
The companies answer: We can get 10,000 steel screws for X amount and 10,000 stainless for Y amount. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Yeah but they could easily make it an upgradable feature... Hell I'd pay $50 extra up front to not have to fool with it myself. It's an eyesore on non moving parts but it's a big time deal on moving parts like a release. Mine completely seized/locked up on day 4 due to the saltwater atmosphere... I'd have been screwed if I didn't have a backup.
Actually, what they should do is to NOT make it an upgradeable feature. They should make it a standard feature. THEN, they've set themselves apart from their competition. Yes, the product costs a little more, but it lasts and doesn't rust. All of these companies IMO, need to take a cue from Steve Jobs and Apple. He insisted that the minor details in all of their products be perfect. Hence, they've got a hundred billion in the bank because of it. Most companies are just too stupid, greedy, and don't care about the product or the consumer. Turn and burn.
Well ideally yes... But baby steps get you there. Within 3 years of one company making it an add on feature, another will make it standard to one up them.
I got to replace all of mine with stainless the year before last. 36 hours of Rain in CO and my brand new rig looked like something I got from a junk store.
Plain and simple, the grade 8 bolts that are used now are stronger than stainless bolts. Are they sufficient, probably,but I would a$$/u/me due to liability reasons, they stay with the stronger bolts. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
I found this on a jeepsunlimited.com forum and was quoted from ebay This is from ebay Reviews & Guides "Stainless steel bolts are not stronger than ordinary steel boltsThis is clearly true for the majority of stainless steel bolts. Stainless steel in general has very little carbon, and because of that, most grades of stainless steel cannot be hardened by heat treatment. Stainless steel bolts are, in most cases, just slightly stronger than Grade 2 hardware store junk bolts, and in nearly all cases, significantly less than Grade 5. You do NOT want to use common-grade stainless fasteners in any application that would call for a hardened (Grade 5 or Grade 8, or stronger) fastener. ARP makes a fine line of stainless bolts that have a tensile strength of approximately 170,000 lbs per square inch. This is greater tensile strength than a typical Grade 8 fastener, but keep in mind that tensile strength is not the only measure of bolt quality/strength. Common grades of stainless steel may have reasonable tensile strength, but significantly less yield strength than a "regular" steel bolt--the stainless bolts are more "stretchy". Those ARP-made bolts are the ONLY stainless fasteners I'm aware of that are suitable for general useAnother issue with common grades of stainless steel is that the threads often seize ("gall") between the bolt and the nut. I suggest the use of an anti-seize compound, coupled to CAREFUL USE OF THE TORQUE WRENCH when tightening stainless steel. You MUST use a torque setting on the wrench suitable for the mechanical limits of the fastener, as adjusted for the reduced thread friction inherent when using a thread lubricant like anti-sieze compounds. As a rule of thumb, and unless the manufacturer says otherwise: Consider a stainless steel fastener to be capable of Grade 2 torque loads, and then adjust the torque DOWNWARD by 20% because of the lubricant properties of the anti-sieze.Example: A common 304 (A2) 3/8-16 stainless bolt should accept the same torque as a 3/8-16 Grade 2 bolt--only about 20 ft/lbs. But since you've lubricated the threads with anti-seize compound, you'd reduce the torque by 20%, for a torque-wrench-setting of 16 ft/lbs. That is NOT VERY MUCH for a 3/8 bolt!!! There are stronger stainless bolts--some but not all 316 alloy bolts will take almost but not quite Grade 5 torque specs, but again you must adjust downward when you use anti-sieze. If you're used to working with hardened fasteners (Grade 5 and Grade 8) you won't believe how little torque is the maximum acceptable amount." Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
The issue is torque. You may be fine with a sight but I wouldn't use them on anything else archery related. I would also highly reccomend if going with stainless, go with the black oxide ones from mcmaster carr and use ant sieze since you're fastening into aluminum. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Or one could just use a little squirt of oil on the screws if it really bothers them.:p Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
If you hunt camped on a saltwater beach for a week you'd understand how futile oil is against that environment... I oiled my release daily and it STILL locked up in 4 days. Scott replaced it and apologized but that wouldn't have helped me mid trip. I'm prepping for a two week float hunt this fall and am already going over my equipment worrying about what will rust up. And I just don't see bolts on bows receiving that much torque... Heck 90+% of them are just used to fasten accessories. I've never had an issue with the little screws around/on my cams rusting, and I haven't replaced them either... Actually come to think of it, my gripe is with the accessory companies more than the bow itself. They have far more screws and are far quicker to rust. I just want to complain mostly haha
Most of my gripe from from sight and rest screws.... No issues with the amount of torque that would or could be applied... A stainless or semi stainless would work just fine. HHA is one of the worst offenders
I wouldn't put a stainless bolt on the bolt that fastens the rest to the bow. That's a high torque bolt. The others not so much. A bow itself goes through alot of stress and considering the seize factor, I wouldn't do it there either. Like I said, a sight I don't see much issue with except for if you make alot of adjustments, it might be an issue.(constantly tightening and loostening would be an issue) As for the release, get a better one. My carters haven't rusted. My rx1 appears to be all stainless parts with an aluminum body. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Stainless is just fine on all bow applications. If there really was a high torque application, you'd rip out the aluminum threads. Stainless on Aluminum won't seize any more than carbon steel on aluminum. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A bow goes through much more stress than one might think. Stainless might work fine but stainless bolts is not an upgrade, its a downgrade. The only advantage is they won't rust. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
People think they have issues now stripping bolt heads out. The issue will triple with stainless. That was the main issue I was referring too. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Firenock is now selling Titanium bolt upgrade kits for a lot of bows. I saw them at the Harrisburg show this year and was very intrigued. I just couldn't bring myself to dismantle every screw on my entire rig to try it out. Lighter, stronger and won't rust. Firenock: TI Upgrade kit Someone else be the guinea pig and let me know how it goes.
