Have you been messing with the poundage setting because if you turn one a little more than the other it will throw the arrow all over the place.
I was able to take my tip to tip length to be 75 inches meaning my draw length should be which it is. I have tried to lock in my anchor point at the same spot everytime and also have my grip changed to two fingers and relax the rest. This is helping more and more. I have to get the feel and build the muscle memory. Thanks a bunch friends!!!!
Did you watch any of the videos? Allistair is an actual coach that knows what he is talking about and you don't have to weed through forum posts trying to figure out who knows and who doesn't know what they are talking about. The wingspand method is just a guess. Pin float dictates where your draw length will end up. Form will dictate what is repeatable. Do yourself a favor and give the videos a look. He has a bunch of them. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
TFOX, I did watch the videos but I thought I would take the advise one by one and shot 30 arrows each time. Remember, this is my second season getting back into bowhunting. I gotta build the muscle memory and with all this coaching, I will become a Rockstar bowhunter. I really enjoyed Allistair's videos. He is good!
Muscle memory is fine but correct form is easily repeatable and takes less muscle memory and utilizes more bone to bone alignment. You are correct to work in 1 thing at a time. Posture is a good place to start. Point the front shoulder at the target and stay vertical. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
I was able to see some more of the videos that wouldn't play for me earlier. Your bow arm needs alot of work and this will fix the problems you are seeing on the back end with your anchor and probably make the draw length feel much better. Here is another video that addresses what I am seeing in the bow arm. Pay attention to what he is saying about grip but also pay special attention to the bone to bone alignment and the T form. You are purposely bending it out of the way. This is not good and very hard to repeat as you are seeing with your anchor. The video shows the correct hand, arm and grip position. http://www.bowtube.com/media/6/get_a_grip/ Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
I broke my own rule and commented on draw length without having all the info. Don't touch the draw length until you have the posture, grip and bow arm corrected. Then let the pin float and results tell you if you need to be a little shorter or longer. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
If your going to listen to someone listen to tfox I've read some other form shooting issue threads he's commented on an he gives great suggestions that will lead you in the right direction
TFOX, I just watched this video from Allistar. So it doesn't matter whether I move my head in or not but alignment is most important. Is this correct? PerformanceArchery | Episode 9 | Reference - YouTube
Kinda Moving the head vertically for your anchors is ok but moving your head forward is not ok. Right now, concentrate on the bow arm and grip. Don't worry about shooting or your peep at this point. Once you get the bow arm and grip correct, your anchors will fall into place. Then you can adjust your peep, if you even use one. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
Awesome TFOX! I will record some more videos on the weekend and see how I am doing. I really appreciate it!
Try this http://youtu.be/rNGJo77OAs8 And this http://youtu.be/rV2SP7PkpME Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
You may have noticed he talks about the string across the side of the nose. Most will say end of the nose, which is what I do and most do but some of the very best do go across the opposite side of their nose. Even my son does it along the side and I haven't seen the need to change it. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
tfox, I too watched the videos. I have been shooting for 13 years (mostly self taught) and must say the instruction is spot on. I was able to make consistent 1" groups at 30 yards after following the advice on grip and drawing. I have a follow up question I hope you will answer. Creating a cup by reaching deeper into the grip allows you to avoid putting pressure on the fleshy portion below the thumb, but it also brings the bow arm closer to a position conducive to string slap. I'm worried that my could weather gear will lead to string slap. Is there a compromise position?
The grip should not cross the life line on your palm toward your fingers. It should stay in the split between the thumb and fingers. Like this http://www.bowtube.com/media/6/get_a_grip/ This turns the forearm out of the string path and should prevent clothing slap if the clothing is made for bow hunting. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks for the quick response. I can't get the video to work, but will keep trying. Will be offline for a few days, but will let you know how it works out
