A few more questions on tuning

First off, I want to say thanks to everyone that helped me come to terms that my bow wasn't tuned properly.

Second, I may just to switch to new arrows. I'm going either tomorrow or the next day and possibly buying 3 400 spine arrows with the shaft ranging from 7.3gpi-8.6gpi, but no heavier than that.

Question #1- What grain broadhead would you recommend? I have plenty of 75grain muzzy, but would 100 be better or should I stick with the 75 grain?

Question #2- When it comes to paper tuning, should newspaper work? Someone on a youtube video mentioned that you arrow fletchings should all be perfectly straight, if they are not straight, what does that tell you?

Question #3- In the chart you guys gave me, it says "increase the tension in cushion plunger" if the spine is stiff and "decrease the tension in the cushion plunger" if the spine is weak. Maybe I'm just a newbie, but what exactly does that mean?

Question #4- It says make spine adjustments (increase draw weight) if the broadheads are going to the left, since my bow only goes up to #60, should I just stick this approach or purchase new arrows?

I'm going to spend this weekend paper tuning since here in West Virginia we have 10 days (as of now) until the start of bow season.

I appreciate all tips and suggestions. Thank you.

 

I wished you lived closer, my cousin could have you ripping bullet holes in a matter of minutes. What part of WV are you in?

 

Currently residing in Raleigh County, originally from McDowell County.

 

Your only about 2hr away, if you get desperate, let me know.

As far as your BH... I would go with a 100-125 grain, by doing this you increase your FOC.

 

Thanks. What is FOC? Also, I've been watching some vids, I've never tuned my bow before (besides just sight adjustments). Is there a difference between broadhead tuning and paper tuning? Which should you do first?

Also, I'm not sure if this is a joke or not, but I saw this as a comment on youtube:

"When you do this, is it required to wear sandals with socks?"

"Yes! The process will not work at all if you wear any other type of footwear. We should have pointed that out in the video and I'm sorry we did not do so. Thank you for pointing it out. Thanks for watching the video and I hope you enjoyed it."

Are these guys joking or? lol

 

I was taught to paper tune with a bare shaft, but it was 1984 things have changed it since then. Here's a link that may be helpful.
http://www.papertuning.com/

 

Def. a joke on youtube...lol.

FOC is Front of Center... you want all your weight focused on the front half of the arrow... it will fly better downrange this way... you can google a foc calculator.

If you paper tune right the first time, and your bow is in time.. you likely will not need to bh tune... you should already be there.

 

OK Thanks a lot man. I'll get to tuning this weekend and I'll give an update on how it went or if I have any more questions. Once again, greatly appreciated.

 

I've never had to paper tune any of my bows so I couldnt explain that to you to be honest but what I do know is that if you are shooting fixed blade broadheads, in order to broadhead tune your arrows, the vanes and the blades on the broadhead should line up if you are shooting a 3 blade like muzzys or something.... To do this you most likely have to re-fletch your arrows. If you shoot expandables they are supposed to shoot like field points so this is not necessary. I don't trust expandables so I can't tell you if this is 100 percent true. There may be more than one way to do this but that's the only way ive heard of and it's worked for me! Then again I'm only 16 and don't have like 30 years of experience like some on this site....... Anyways, hope I could help a little

 

My uncle mentioned something about this about a year ago to me and I kind of shrugged him off. Now that someone else has said it I guess it's probably true. I just remembered tonight that I only have 1 arrow left out of my arrows due to missing nocks and broken shafts, so I'm probably going to have to buy new arrows soon anyway. The inserts in my last one sucked due to I guess that epoxy glue not being what it was supposed to be.

Thanks for this mention. I will take this into consideration. I thought my uncle was just talking out of his rear.

 

Really makes no different... But it makes sense, if you want them to line up and your inserts are Hot epoxied, All you have to do is heat your insert up and rotate it to line up with your vanes... I like to do it myself, but I really don't think it makes a shooting difference either way.

 

I see. I'm probably going to buy new arrows this weekend, but here tonight I've spent a lot of time looking up proper grip placement, how to fall through your release, and studying that guide to broadhead tuning. Tomorrow we're going to broadhead tune my wife's bow. Here's the steps, tell me if I'm getting this...

Step 1- shoot from 15 yards with field tips, adjust the sights until she's hitting around the center consistently.
Step 2- shoot then with a broadhead from 15 yards, make tuning adjustments as necessary: nocking point, spine, etc.
Step 3- do the same from 25, 35, etc..

Now, my question is how do you adjust the knocking point if it needs adjusted? Also what is the "increase/decrease the tension in cushion plunger"?

 

Here are some answers for your questions:

Question #1: I would recommend going with a 100 gr BH and field tip. They are the most commonly found, and also have the greatest variety. MOST set-ups will tune perfectly with a 100 grain head.

Question #2: Yes newspaper will work for paper tuning, also wax paper wprks. (newspaper is cheaper). Second, the tears in the paper will tell you if your arrow is leaving the bow in a straight line or if it is not. This flight issue can be corrected by adjustments to the d-loop, and/or the rest. I prefer to make the adjustments to the rest.

Question #3: Don't worry about the plunger or cushion button. These were items used years ago for different style rests so you need not concern yourself with it.

Question #4: By going with the 400 spine arrows, you are applying the poundage of your bow with the arrows you will be using. There are various ways to apply the changes, weaker spine or you can also try going with a heavier field tip or broadhead. The heavier the tip, the "weaker" it will make the shaft and vice versa the lighter the tip, the stiffer the arrow.

I would get some 400 spine arrows, 100 gr heads, and if shooting fixed blade heads, you really don't need to line the fletching up with the BH's. If your bow is tuned and sighted in, you can make fine adjustments to the rest to get BH's and field tips to impact at the same point.

 

No no no, broadhead and vanes DO NOT need to be aligned.

 

I shoot fixed and my blades are not aligned with my vanes yet I have the same point of impact.
As far as paper tuning goes, shoot at 10 feet with the paper about 4 feet from YOU. you are looking at the arrow immediately after it leaves the bow, after that the fletching straightens it out. Close your eyes and focus on your form when you do shoot your form needs to be as close to perfect as possible otherwise you aren't helping yourself at all.