When I got my first bow, it was real short. This winter when I ordered my new one, I added an inch. Still a touch short, but it fells comfortable to me that way. I don't mind because of the temps I sometimes hunt in. All those layers and I don't have to worry about getting my sleeves caught up in the string.
I have to disagree. I read an article by Robert Ulmer, at least I think that's his name, but his whole method of shooting ( world compound shooter, USA champion compound shooter) is form. correct form= consistency= accuracy. I myself have put to practice what he said and my form is more consistent and my groups are alot better. If you change your form each time you shoot your arrow will land in a different spot each time, and then your grouping is much wider.
the guy also showed a demo with a person from the audience. he had him stand as if he were drawn back, but with his elbow in towards his back. He had another guy come up and push on his "bow hand while the speaker pushed on his "trigger hand". the participant was unable to hold his form. he then had him "line up his elbow and bow arm and the participant could withstand both guys push on his arms and maintain his form. The speaker explained that the idea of Push/pull while drawing a bow is some what out of date. He is a mathematician and used trig/physics to determine maximum stance with minimal effort.
I didn't say anything about changing form for each shot. I shoot a recurve differently than I shoot a compound just like anyone does, because you can't pull a recurve back like you do a compound. I'm sure there is something to what these shooting professionals have to say, but if it ain't broke don't fix it. It's all personal preference in my opinion. Some people use a release and others use a tab, some people people like a longer pull and some like a shorter pull, etc etc. Accuracy is accuracy, it's all routine and practice regardless.
Since 90 % of us will never hire a shooting coach... we need a starting point. Unless you can come up with something better then what you said above... the wing span method isn't a waste of time. Yes we will tweak it as I am shooting a little longer draw, but not much. I could honestly say the same thing about a shooting coach as being a waste of time just for the simple fact most of us will never use one. Paper tuning is also a waste of time to me. Yet some guys think it is a most. I also don't go by the manufacture specs and measure it myself. Course the IBO speed is always right on the money. Tim
If you would like to take the time to really fine tune your draw length try this with a well tuned bow: Hang a weighted length of twine from the top of a target vertical down the middle. Stand at 5 feet. Shoot a fletched arrow at the string, slightly and I mean slight adjust your sight until you split the string with your arrow. Once you doing that do the same with a bare shaft, if the arrow is hitting to the right ( left make the opposite adjustments )take a half twist out of your string, keep making minor adjustments till your splitting the string with the bare shaft. Then if your really ambitious move back to 15 feet and do it all over. Keep these points in mind. 1) don't add or remove more then about 3/8 ...if you need a longer adjustment then a mod change is in order. 2) if your splitting the string at 15 feet...and you feel like you want slightly(1/4 or so) of an up or down adjustment for comfort then... Slightly adjust your D loop longer or shorter. Proper draw length takes side to side pressure off your string so your pulling in line. Pulling all inline not only will allow finer tuning as it takes an important variable out of the the process... Pulling inline via the proper draw length will also clean up horizontal floating at longer distances. Over the past 25 years of shooting I have seen an ebb and flow of draw length...the longer draw phase came from wanting easy speed...right now bow performance is at its max, and speed can be obtained with shorter draws...so now the short draw crowd is in fashion.
The best thing is to learn proper form. Next to that is actually drawing the bow with the equipment you are going to use. If I purchased a bow because of what my wing span said I should,I would have had to get new cams shortly after because it would not go out to my actual correct draw length.
Not a fan of trying to determine draw length through bareshaft tuning. Too many other variables come into play.
Nothing to do with tuning, your not adjusting your rest or making any adjustments for arrow flight. What you are doing is adjusting your draw length until there is no side ways pressure on your string at full draw. After your set draw lengthwise then you tune from the ground up. As far are variables the idea is take as many out as possible, buy having the correct length and buy default form/ arm position you now taken that out if the tuning process.
I understand that but I completely disagree with it. There are still too many variables. Torque being the main one. Be it with your grip or your face. sent from my samsung note 2
In order to learn proper form, one needs a bow. For a newbie or even your kid... how does one decide his correct draw length in order to purchase a bow ?? Most bows ( mostly Bear ) that I am familiar with, have draw length adjustments usually up to a half inch either way. From a hunting stand point or the run of the mill 3Ds where coaches are not needed nor used for most... the wing span method will get you in the ball park. That is all I am saying. Nothing is perfect. I just don't know any method of getting someone on track faster. I am not questioning you on your knowledge as you know and have a lot more experience then I do. I know what works for me in the backyard. It probably isn't perfect. LOL Britney has grown since we have adjusted her draw length last fall. I will do what I always do with the wing span method and tweak it from there. The last thing I want is to get it wrong and hurt her form by not getting the right draw length. Tim
Oh and if you are ever in North Dakota, you are more then welcome to stop in and give us pointers. I would enjoy that and Britney would appreciate it. Tim
The wingspan method does play into this thread because from my experience, it does get people too short. Unless your shooting one of those bows that draws a 1/2"-1" too long. :D sent from my samsung note 2
Don't have any plans of heading up (although it would be fun) but I would enjoy that. I appreciate the invite. sent from my samsung note 2
If you want to help her and your form. Alistair whittingham (performance archery)has some great stuff on youtube. His approach is a slightly different approach from larry wise but it is some good teachings. One of the best sources of free coaching out there. sent from my samsung note 2
After reading all this I went out and added a half inch to mine to make it 29" to see if it helped. I shot about 30-40 times and it actually seemed to help me. Kinda felt funny at first though.
One thing to be conscious of when changing to a straight, relaxed arm is the bow shoulder. Be sure not to extend it forwatd. It needs to be down, back and relaxed. Also, be careful that there is no tension in the release shoulder as well. (Not trying to work up. Down and relaxed). Elbow can be up, as long as the shoulder is down and relaxed. sent from my samsung note 2
Great thread. I always learn something from the experts. I'll chime in. It was once thought that a strong indicator of draw length issues was the height of your elbow compared to your release hand. You should be able to draw a straight line from your arrow through to your elbow, or very close to it. I think it still holds true, but its not a hard and fast rule. Everyone's body make it is different. There was a guy, I believe his first name was Chance, who was a Vegas champ several years running. His elbow was at a 25-30 degree angle high at full draw. But the guy shot lights out. Especially for hunting, I've always felt its better to be a 1/2" short than a 1/2" long. I believe most will shoot better with a slightly shorter draw length. When you set or fine tune draw length, strive for repeatability first. Get measured properly to get you close, then start fine tuning until you find that sweet spot. For me, its hard to describe what the sweet spot feels like. Nock an arrow, close your eyes and come to full draw, hitting all of your preferred anchor points. Feel your bow arm and shoulder placement. It may feel short or it may feel like you can push out the front more. Fine tune until you hit a spot where you can close your eyes, come to full draw and not be able to do any of those things. Its sort of like finding that spot where your internal bone structure of your shoulders is connected all the way through from your bow arm to your release arm. It will feel "solid", repeatable. Sorry, I suck at explaining this.
I think you were trying ro explain bone to bone contact. Larry wise addresses it in the video. sent from my samsung note 2
So would it stand to reason that in order to check our correct draw length, we should be able to back against a wall and feel the wall along our bow arm through to our drawing arm? At least in principle?
