PSEHunter, What are your specs here. What's the bow crono out at for your setup? Tell us your specs. I shoot an IBO 330fps bow that shoots right around 300fps at my draw length all set up. It will take an arrow 6 tenths of a second to travel 60 yards. I promise you a deer can duck my arrow at half that distance(I have it on film from 26 yards), so there's no doubt in my mind that a deer could and would easily duck the arrow from your bow. In 6 tenths of a second a deer can easily take a full step, which will cause your point of impact to miss by 10 inches easily. It doesn't matter if your pulling 80lbs, shooting 350fps with a fixed blade, a half a second is an eternity.
What grain arrow are you shooting? I already agree - 60 and under is a no go - would need a min of 65lb to generate enough momentum/KE/FPS at 60 yards to feel good about it
???????????????? Your OP was for 55 pounds and mechanicals and now you're talking about 65, are we going to discuss crossbows and their effectiveness too?
Not that I want to get too involved in all this but you don't pick up that much momentum with 5 lb if draw weight. Your talking maybe 10fps and a few lbs of KE. Nothing that is going to change the game drastically. If you want more momentum and KE grow longer arms for more DL and go with a heavier arrow. If you want to shoot animals out to 60 you need to be practicing at 100 yards minimum on a regular basis (daily) and shoot a fixed blade COC such as a Vipertrick or DRT Dirtnap. With a 27" I wouldn't even think about a mechanical. And now my soapbox and at the risk of ticking you off get 60 yard shots out of your head altogether,1 because it isn't a smart thing to do and 2 I doubt you have means to given your previous statements. Shoot 55lb because as you say it's "butter", tune the hell out of your bow to make fixed broadheads shoot correctly, regularly practice out to 70,80 so you can kill at 40 and last but not least stop arguing with people about studies and dismissing things you don't want to hear. The people you are arguing with on here have been there and done it and found what works and what doesn't. Just say thank you, heed their advice and move along. Off soapbox. At the end of the day do what you want but don't come here to get people to validate it because there is a good chance it won't happen.
Great advice, but FYI - read this page of comments and tell me who is arguing with who I already agreed about many things, but some people want to argue about nothing? Also FYI 5lbs of draw weight = 6lbs of K/E (which would put me over 70 KE with a 420 grain arrow) on my setup which would put it well over all manufactuers requirements for KE needed for there mechanicals with a 2 inch blade.. Now back to your advice, I do agree, to me it's not worth increasing the poundage for it, better to go with fixed..but if I did, I could do it with 65lb draw.
A person can do anything at any draw weight. Doesn't make it a smart decision. Those charts are made by manufacturers trying to get their products in as many hands as possible. Some of the real world is taken out when they make them and I really doubt a 60 yard shot is taken into consideration either. Sort of like IBO speeds with a bow. Who in the hell bow hunts with IBO specs? Honestly my biggest concern for you is with DL not draw weight. A lot of people want to make a big deal about draw weight and it does make some difference. But I believe after someone gets shorter than say about 27.5-28" depending on the bow its time to leave the mechanicals hanging on the rack at the store. I am glad you have seemed to decide on a fixed blade for now. I'll warn you tuning can be a pain in the *** at first. I fought with it for a while and it's taken me 2 or 3 years to get even OK at it. Good Luck. And for the record I percieve your posts to be very very passive aggressive. Making a statement in an attempt to dismiss what someone just gave as advice then adding a smiley face doesn't make the other person the instigator. But your new, you'll learn. I made an *** of myself a time or two as well.
Nobody.. BUT... The bow's rated IBO tells you how fast and how much stored energy the bow can generate at 70 lbs 30 inch draw with a 350 grain arrow. That's an industry standard measurement - than using OT2 software you can plugin if your settings (DL, DW, Arrows, etc) and it will tell you exactly how much speed / energy you are getting from your setup. Energy equals mass times the speed of light squared. All bows that shoot 60 pounds or 70 lbs don't all put out the same FPS/Energy given the same arrow weight and draw length and that is why people use IBO's to guage which bow they may want to buy if they want a speed bow - or a bow that can generate equal energy at lower poundage. Never heard of On Target 2?
This program sounds all well and good so if you want to base what you use in the field on that have at it. Real life is much different than a program. But at what you can shoot (55lbs) and short draw (27") mechs are not a good idea, and i don t care what alien bow your shooting at those specs that create all this KE its not ethical and not a good idea IMO
Heard of it yes. But I don't really have a use for it in my application. And I don't even look at IBO when looking at a bow. They are all fast enough for what I do. In any case have fun with your simulations. You'll learn soon enough that the real world is very different. ...And I'm done.
