I don't have any issue tuning a bow, it is tuned quite well, bare shaft / paper tuning many say is even better than walk back and there are many different ways to tune bow that are faster and require less overall work. I don't want to tune fixed BH's - doesn't mean I want to mask tuning my bow
Good Lord!......... now thats EXCACTLY what i try to say when i write a post about mech. heads but i ai'nt good enough at writing what i feel so i just come out and say it....... i HATE rage heads
This is the last thing I will say as everyone has pretty much said all we can. But, if your bow is not shooting a fixed blade broadhead with its fieldpoints then your bow is NOT tuned, or you have either a wrong spined arrow or something else going on that is not correct. I personally and I know alot others on here know for a fact that they could get a bow tuned correctly to get it to shoot ANY fixed blade broadhead to fly correct pretty darn close to fieldpoints. Please dont take any of this as an attack against you. Just alot of us have too much respect for the game we hunt and we want to help. If it wasnt for this site I would have never learned a ton of stuff that I know now. Wish you the best of luck on whatever you decide to do. Any questions feel free to come on here and ask away.
Not accurate - professional/competitive archers do not use BH's to tune a bow. Mechanicals do fly like field points - most do - as documented on video and field tested. Will not take as attack, this is a very good discussion. Hopefully we all learn something
You seem to be missing one very important point. Until a bow will shoot fixed broad heads like darts, it is not fine tuned. Mechanicals fly with field points because they mask a poor tune job the same. Tune with broad heads and only then should you consider mechanicals.
I've gone back and read the evolution of this thread since I posted in the #2 spot...it's starting to smell a bit like troll around here
Exactly, Definitely wish winter would hurry up and be over with. I wish it was summer so I can have my new Halon 6 to shoot. Nothing beats hanging out in the back yard or at the range shooting. Slick Tricks or QAD Exodus will be my head for next year
As I said, if I shot a stinger x or a similar fps rated bow at 70 lbs, same draw, arrow weight etc as my current setup at 60lbs, my current setup would generate more KE/FPS/Mom. I'm sure you have used or heard of OT2 software - plugin the numbers. There are plenty of articles explaining the why and how's of that, I'm sure most here already know. And FYI - Just because you think there good answers, certainly doesn't make them factual, lots of bad info given out online (alot of great info as well) and forums, I always do my due diligence.
"Due diligence" says that shooting an animal with a low poundage bow, with a mechanical broadhead, at a long distance, is just asking for a disaster and worst case a badly injured animal.
If I said I had a different bow at 70lbs I'm willing to bet 99% would say that is OK when in fact that bow at 70lbs could have less K/E/Momentum/FPS for the same grain arrow. and NO I didn't say I was going to do that, I said I need a min of 65lbs BUT.. after speaking with some buddies.. I MAY try the QAD exodus BH's fixed..and stay at 60lbs.. I may not..I'm just not sure yet..
I shot a doe with my #56 draw and 435 grain arrows with the Killzone heads @ 15yds. Fully deployed, but no pass through. It was a quarting away shot and it barely poked through the other side. At longer distances I would say no.
