Why not just shoot fixed blade heads? I don't see any reason with your set up to shoot expandables. Never over 40 yards in my opinion. Deer can move a ton in that distance. People take farther shots often, and many get lucky. But its not worth the risk if you ask me. And especially with a questionable broadhead.
Yes main reason is I don't want to have to tune those in separately, with mech's I'm assured they fly as well and on target as my field points. Bow is paper tuned, but do not have a place or targets to shoot broadheads for tuning.
Just because your bow is paper tuned does not mean it is tuned. That is just a starting point. That is the biggest mis-conception these days. Partially to blame by archery shops as a lot of times they will advertise that if you buy a bow that after a said amount of days they will give you a free super tune or whatever. Honestly, I can take a out of tune bow and get it to shoot bullet holes through paper. What I would do is go on Youtube and look up "walk back tuning" and "French tuning". Doing walk back tuning will get your rest to near perfect. If you have good form and squeeze the trigger at release you will be surprised how much more accurate you will be as well. AND it will be that much easier to get fixed blade broadheads to fly with your fieldpoints. *side note* Once you do walkback tuning and get that all set, then look up Broadhead tuning. Doing this should be very simple if you did the walkback tuning correctly.
I'm familiar with it, didn't want to do any more additional tuning as I shoot pretty good at 60 yards now. I did the paper tune out to 20 yards, part of the reason why I want mechanical
If you "shoot pretty good at 60" then your maximum distance for hunting should be 30. Just a rule of thumb that many bowhunter go by. Maximum hunting range equals half of effective practice range.
with my setup id have no problem personally but with a 31" draw im pushing around 285 fps. I used to draw higher but ran into the problem of 70 lb being easy during practice and summer/early season but after sitting for 2 hours in 0 degree weather makes it feel about like 90 lb haha.
Thanks that's understood, I can shoot quite well past that (I try not boasting to much )..I think it's safe to assume I would need to go with at least 65lb draw on current bow if I don't opt to go fixed.
Sounds like you got advice that your setup is not good for what you want to do but you kind of keep ignoring what everyone is telling you. You have a short draw length and low poundage and you want to shoot game up to 60yds with mechs..... like a few guys have said looks like a recipe for wounding game. Sounds like a fixed blade is where you need to be.
According to this rule of thumb my maximum hunting range is 15 yards. I normally only practice out to 30 yards. My hunting shots have rarely been much over 20.
I see 2 things trending with this thread that bother me. 1....no I would not hunt with a mechanical at 55#.....or even 60#. 2....you already stated 55# feels good drawing, but now you want to go to 65#? Sorry man, but it seems like you are only hurting yourself more by convincing yourself you need a higher draw weight. Drop it down to 55 like you want and tune your fixed blades. A lot of fixed blades fly true. Honestly, I do very little tweaking with my G5 Strikers (yep, I pull 72#'s and still shoot a 125 grain fixed head). You can go buy a cheap broadhead target for the same price as a package of mechanicals and in an afternoon (if you have to tweak your rest at all) you should be hitting the same with field points and broadheads. Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk
My set up is similar to the OP but I shoot 60 lb draw. I've been killing deer and bears with mechanicals for 20 years without an issue. But the longest shot I've ever taken was from 35 yards. I would also add that not all mechanicals are the same so people making blanket statements about them may not be the most accurate advice.
I've read and heard many bad things about alot of fixed blades and flying true..My father used them, but that was in the 70's and 80's,, Hunting, like archery, fishing and other stuff is a mental game - confidence, honestly I have zero confidence in a fixed blade warranted or not.. Wish I could kick that, but right now I can not. Not all bows are equal, my bow at 55 could push out more momentum, fps and K/E than other bows at 60/65 and some at 70lbs..Kinda why I asked this question at first.. because one at 55 could be equal to another setup at 65 that had success..
My bow is at 60 - original question was dropping to 55 since the K/E, momentum, FPS could be similar of that at another bow at 65 or even 70lbs.. I decided 55lbs and 60lbs is a no go at that distance, I could do 65 though.
I don't follow the rule to the letter either. That's why is a rule of thumb and not a law of the land. This is good advice for the OP from someone who uses similar equipment.
Another product of the mechanical revolution. My bow is tuned, well sort of. And, I don't have a target or anywhere to shoot broadheads for practice. So, just slap on some mechanicals and go chuck them at deer. It's just that easy right? No, its really not. But, unfortunately the manufacturers of these heads would lead you to believe it is. I am not blaming the OP for falling into this trap. It is brought on by what I think is greed and incredibly misleading advertising that is beyond unethical. Here is the deal, it is NEVER okay to go shoot a broadhead at a living creature that you have not practiced with extensively. Never. Its just not ethical. I don't care what anyone in some bow shop says, or what you may read in some glossy advertisement. Also, its not okay to raise the poundage on a bow to an uncomfortable level just to "quick-fix" the inability to get penetration with a mechanical. You will compound the errors. Not to pick on the OP, because again, he is simply a product of the misinformation put out by a lot of shops and a lot of manufacturers. At least he is smart enough to question the crap that has become all too common in the archery world. I have said it many times and most of you are sick of it, but there is good reason that a lot of outfitters and some states made mechanicals off limits. Its not necessarily because they are ineffective, but because they are all too often used in uneducated hands which makes them very ineffective. To the OP, do yourself and the deer a huge favor by leaving the poundage at a very comfortable weight. Tune the bow to the point that it will shoot a good, fixed head properly, and then have fun. I absolutely despise Rage. Not for their product, but for the legions of uninformed arrow flingers that they have turned into crippling machines. End of rant.
This 100% After several years of bringing good friends to our farm to hunt, this was the first season that I ever let someone use a mechanical. Why? I trusted his ethics and knew his set up was correct for one. I don't dislike them, just the people that think they are for every bow and arrow set up, and use them to mask a tuning issue. Sent from my LGLS991 using Tapatalk
Agreed on that, I do use the practice BH's on an outside range. Few more things to think about.. I'd be OK using smaller cut mech's at 60lbs out to 60 yards with a 400+ grain arrow, but not the 2" mech's. Obviously if I up the grain of the arrow and find the best weight/fps/momentum/KE general area before diminishing returns I could probably get away with it. To bad those manufactuers don't make the process simple and are generally vague about what you really should use. The cases I read about mech's failing is more than likely a light arrow on a boarderline draw weight.
