I'm new to bowhunting as of this past season and, although, I wasn't able to stick one, I'm addicted. Just found this awesome website and this is my first post. Anyways, I went and bought a new Mission Eliminator II from the Matthews "Econo"-line, which I love. When my buddy heard I was getting into bowhunting, he gave me some old accessories of his to help me save a few bucks. One thing was a new pack of Wasp broadheads, 125 gr. So I got 125 gr. field points on my new arrows to keep my practice weight consistant w/ these Wasps. I've, since, noticed that 100 gr. is much more prevelent amoung bowhunters. Also, I put a 20 yr. old metal Browning stabilizer on it, that my dealer believed is alot heavier than what's used today. My question is, are either of these issues, (the grain weight and the stabilizer), going to significantly effect what I'm trying to do in the woods? Or is whatever I practice with and get used to good enough? Any thoughts?
im kinda new to this year was only my second...but i bought a new bow this yr. a 2010 rytera alien x and i absolutely love it! i practice with field tips at first but now i practice wit actual broadheads cuz there is a slight difference in how they fly so its ur choice but practiciing wit broadheads helps u know wat its gonna fly like in the woods p.s. i use 100 grain because thats wat the dealer i bought my bow from said to
the stabilizer wont effect you as much as you think....the new stabilizers help out with sound and vibration along with stability...and the grain weight...dont worry about it...shoot 125 grains....will increase foc which is good for hunting. Good luck...when you are ready to get better stabilizer get one look at octane doinker sims and many more but for now i think your fine.
Well it depends. First off 100 grain heads are the most prevalent for sure. Mostly because of ignorance in the archery world. Many archers don't understand that tip weight is about how you want to set-up your arrow and getting your bow in tune. First off the important thing is to get your bow in tune. I don't have the link handy but someone else can post the link to the Easton Tuning guide. The tip weight is just one of many variables that effect your bow tune (dynamic spine). You control your dynamic spine to find a perfect match between your bow and arrow. This is described very well in the Easton tuning guide. Tip weight, arrow length, arrow spine and Draw weight (Draw length effects it also but obviously you can't adjust that unless you know of a way to grow or shrink your body size.) If you have arrows already and you are set on using them, then all you have to adjust is the tip weight and draw weight. You will need to check to see if you dynamic spine is correct with a 125 grain head. If it is close you can adjust the draw weight down or up a little bit to get it in. If not then you have to adjust tip weight. If you don't have arrows already then you should decide what tip weight you would like and build your arrow back from there. A 125 grain head will be a little slower but have more momentum and better pentatraion. A 100 grain head will be a little faster but won't penatratate as well. Also a 125 grain head will give you more FOC (front of center) which is a good thing. I prefer the heavier arrow but to each is own. This is definitely a speed driven industry.
Here is the tuning guide. Read this all the way through. You will learn a lot. http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf
Hey LittleJohn, What shop have you been dealing with? I live on the southeast side so Mooresville is a pretty good haul, but if you look around the columbus/ north vernon area there are quite a few outdoor 3d ranges. Honestly I've never done one, mainly because I happened to have a 3d target and practiced with it at home / where i hunt. If you have any other questions about local places, i may be able to help.
Hey IndyNotch, I've got acreage here in Mooresville where I live, hunt and plenty of room to practice. I got my bow and a bag style target at Whitetails Plus here in Mooresville. I've shot a couple of broadheads at that bag, but they blow right through it. Are the 3D targets all made for broadhead practicing? If so, I'd probably get one. They have a few 3D shoots around here, leading up to deer season. One is at the Pine Hill Archery Club in Danville and many are at people's private properties, but anyone can come. Do you know any good ways to make your own broadhead target/ backstop? I've got 70' long pole barn where I've been practicing w/ the bag, but it would be cool to make something in there for broadhead practice. Don't really want to ruin that bag w/ broadheads, but I've got to practice with them eventualy. I'm new to all of this, so please pardon the dumb questions. Thx.
Look at rinehearts targets 18-1....most 3d targets are made for broadheads but they will still tear the heck out of any targets
little John, any multi layer target will work for broadheads and you can find some for fairly cheap. The reinhart bags are pricey but very good as well. There has been some great advice above for your accessories. I personally prefer a lighter stabalizer as it's a little less weight on the bow which helps for those times when you have to stay at full draw for a while. But if you practice with the heavier one and get used to it, you wont know any different. I personally use 100gr broadheads to match everyone I hunt with, and because they are more popular in stores. I like using the same weight as my fellow hunters as it gives me a option to borrow a head if needed. I have added 20gr to the tip of my arrows with insert weights to give me the same FOC that a 125gr head would.
As just mentioned the FOC which is front of center is a major part in penetration....so the 125gr heads you have will be just fine...if you have any problems with them they there is always the option of switching but for now i would shoot those 125gr heads....they will pack a punch
Thx for the advice guys. I'm sure that I will need some more of your collective wisdom in coming months, as I get deeper into this new passion of mine.
100 grains? 125 grains? Really doesn't make a huge difference unless you are close on spine or need the extra FOC. Make sure your arrows are spined correctly and have at least 12% FOC. Then tune your bow to them and you are set! Dan
