I am shooting a Bear 'Strike'. This is the first Bear bow I have ever shot. In the past, I have only owned PSE. I wanted to know if anyone knows if the let-off can be adjusted. This bow seems to be almost at full draw before the let-off begins. I would guess at almost 90-95% draw. Is this something that can be adjusted? Thanks for any help.
The let-off can't be adjusted, its a percentage of the draw weight so technically it changes when you change the draw weight. Maybe what you want to do is shorten the draw length of the bow and that will make it a bit easier for you. My girlfriend has to do that on her Apprentice and then its manageable for her to draw it all the way back comfortably.
I'm not a Bear shooter or a Pro shop owner, so my advice may be worth what you're paying for it. The point where let off occurs is based on cam geometry and can't be changed without changing the cams or modules. Most of the newer bows have a very sold back wall with a shallow valley by design. This makes the bow faster because the leverage drops off abruptly allowing the limbs to recover faster. I agree with dgable: if you are experiencing continued difficulty after developing muscle memory, you may need to go to a shorter draw length of adjust the length of your release if possible. If you're right handed and your draw is too long you might experience string slap or grouping to the left. I recently went back to my older release (with a shorter extension) and I'm grouping better and acquiring the target much faster. Some cams do have an adjustment for let off percentage and some actually have and allen screw for adjusting draw length.
I am assuming you meant draw length. You can adjust it yourself. This from from Cabelas item description: Bear® Archery Strike RTH Bow Package •Perimeter-weighted inner cam system •No modules or bow press needed to adjust the draw •Beyond parallel compression-molded limbs •Zero-tolerance limb pockets greatly reduce felt shock The Strike is an icon of the total system of matched performance components that made smooth-shooting bows synonymous with Bear Archery. And besides weighing only 3.9 lbs. and launching arrows up to a blistering 310 fps, this bow is full off new advancements. First, the perimeter-weighted inner cam system allows the Strike to be adjusted to all of its draw lengths without the use of modules or a bow press. Second, flared quad limbs are the perfect example of beyond parallel compression-molded limbs. They distribute stress evenly during draw and release. Dual-arc string suppressors counter the greatest amount of string vibration. For even more dampened vibration, the zero-tolerance limb pockets greatly reduce felt shock. Axle-mounted weight dampeners are optimally positioned to absorb vibration. An ultrasmooth idler wheel rotates on two stainless steel, sealed ball bearings. Right hand only. Camo pattern: Realtree APG™
Muzzy Man, I was referring to how long I have to draw my bow before I reach the let-off point. It seems to be at the very end of the draw cycle. If I let up at full draw even just (it seems) 1/4", the let-off is gone. Sorry, that's the best way I can describe it. I didn't think that that part of the left-off could be adjusted, but thought I would ask anyway. I am not referring to draw length or left-off percentage. Just how far I have to draw before the left-off begins. Thanks to everyone that has replied.
I don't shoot a bear, I shoot an elite, but elite has a tuning chart for their bows on their website. By adjusting string length and cable length you're able to change pretty much everything about the feel of the bows draw to a degree. Im not sure about bears cams but a bow is a bow and all should be able to be adjusted some. I like an early letoff in the draw cycle with a long valley.
I don't shoot a bear, but i know my martin doesn't let off till' very late in my draw. I'm just used to it and it makes me theorize that my bow cam accelerates the arrow pretty aggressively when i release. But like Treestandsniper said the let-off point is varied by cam timing/aggressiveness.
Okay... My Hoyt is the same way. The hard wall at the end of the let-off is a dynamic of the harder cam as has been stated. Sometimes, it can literally snatch your arm forward while settling in to your anchor. That is why I now shoot a release when I prefer fingers. You just have to get used to it but shortening your length may help. Give it a try... you can always put it back.
Again that point that you get to in the draw cycle where the bow "lets-off" technically cant be changed. It can be made easier for you if you shorten the draw length. That is what my girlfriend had to so. If you've every test shot some bows then you probably have shot one that had the draw length set to long, every time I shot them, by that point it felt like I was going to touch elbows together. it makes me arch my back and its not really that feasible to shoot, but for a test shot it made due. I think shortening your draw length a half inch or so could possibly help you out some.
My cousin-in-law just got a new bear bow ( forget the specific model) and the let-off point was adjustable. When we got his draw length set the let-off didn't seem to kick in. I took a look at the cam with length adjustment on it and noticed a small screw that stuck out a quarter inch that had a rubber spacer on it. After adjusting that screw we got his let-off to engage at the correct point. I am not sure the strike has the same adjustment, but when I have access to mine I can check for you.
Okay from what I can tell on my 2010 strike this is the part that adjusts where the valley is. it is on the cam. I have mine at 9 as my draw length is set at 29. My valley hits right before I reach full draw and the wall is unmistakeable. I love my strike and have shot it at 29" and 30". Both had about the same valley but at 30" I had the feeling I was on the cusp of the valley and my arm would get pulled forward at full draw. I hope this helps you.
Hmm, thats something new to me. Well my next suggestion would be for mab to look at the owners manual and find out how to actually change it. Then let er rip.
Adjusting draw length on the strike requires you to move 2 modules. If one is moved to decrease draw length but not the one pictured it results in the valley being off. Just make sure you moved both to the same setting and you should be fine.
