I just finished paper tuning my bow to shoot new broadheads & Luminocks. I noticed when I look down the string and line it up with the center line of the grip my arrow is pointed way out to the right. If I look down the string and align to the line on the left it lines up with the arrow perfect. Are these just guidelines or should it be centered to the bow? Being a carpenter I understand the importance of plumb, level and square. I did notice that the string isn't centered to the limbs. The top one is, but the bottom cam off centers the string to the right. I know all thats normal but I just don't understand why my bow is shooting out of square.
It's a Matthews...don't they automatically tune themselves? From what I understand, there are different standards by which a bow is considered tuned. Or maybe I should say different "stages" or "milestones" along the way to a perfect bow tune. The first, as you described, concerns the physical arrangement of the components (rest, nock point, etc.) which lays the groundwork for a good tune. Consider this the equivalent of bore-sighting a rifle. The next step is to paper tune, as you have already done. A good paper tune will probably require you to adjust your components to a point at which they may appear far from their original placement. But because we're ultimately concerned about consistent arrow flight, achieving a good paper tune matters more than step 1. Lastly, bowhunters often broadhead-tune their bows. This ensures that broadhead-equipped arrows will strike with the same accuracy as a field point. As with the previous step, however, a proper broadhead tune may throw the bow out of paper tune. So is a broadhead tune a "better tune" than a paper tune and so on? From my perspective, yes, because the bottom line is predictable shot placement with whichever head you will use for hunting. A good broadhead tune is the only way to get there and is therefore superior. Somewhere in there is a bare-shaft method, too. That's what she said.
I was paper tuned for rage 3 blades before and I remember being center to the red line. Thats why I was concerned. Your right though, all that matters is the end result!
My guess is that a bow tuned to a mechanical head would do well on a paper test because of the minimal surface area difference from a plain field tip. That may be why its often said that a good paper tune is all thats necessary if using mech heads. But yes, bottom line is accuracy in the field so you can post some points for our team! (said the teammate with 0 points) Sent from my phone. Spelling was not a priority.
An arrow pointed to the left or right of true centershot is a very unforgiving and less than accurate setup.First thing you will notice is that as you go back in distance,the left/right impact will change. You will also notice that it is hard to hold the pin on target because you will be pointing your body in 1 direction but the arrow is pointed in another.AND this isn't even considering arrow node alignment. Always set the rest so you are at true center. You must walk back tune or french tune to achieve this. I prefer french tune. Do a search,I have posted on this many times and don't feel like typing it again. Since you were able to get a bullethole,I will assume there is no contact issues.This means you have a spine, torque or cam lean issue.
Your arrow should come straight out off the bow. My guess is you are torquing the bow when you shoot. Mark your rest with a pencil so you can go back to that position if you like. You are shooting a Z7X. Set your rest so the center (top) of the arrow is 13/16" from the riser. Adjust your sight so you hit a 1" dot (or smalller) near the top of your target dead center at 3 yards (with FP). Go back to 30-40 yards and aim at the dot with the same pin. You arrow should be directly under it. If not move your rest an little the way you want the second arrow to move. Now go back and resight at 3 yards and go back to 30-40 until they are in line. After that I shoot BH at 30 and see if they hit the same. If not, I make slight rest adjustments until they do. Since the BH at like fletching on the front of your arrow, the way you move the rest may seem backwards. Move it one way and if it is worse go the other. If you can get your FP to tune good. Then if you can NOT get you BH to hit the same place you are torquing you bow. I have not shot throught paper in many years. I have a Z7, Z7X and HeliM and can get FP and fixed BH to hit the same out to 50 yards.
Instead of the dot, use a carpenter level and draw a vertical line on the target. Much finer aiming reference and you don't have to guess if your directly under spot. Paper is a good tool for checking tune but it should be used for reference only. Imo, never adjust rest to get a good tear. Fix the torque issue, cam lean or spine issue. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
Tfox has it right. Also, the adjustment you are referencing is usually called centershot (left/right). Usually "square" refers to the nock height. For reference, if your arrows are spined properly and there is no cam lean or torque being induced by the shooter a Mathews will nearly always tune at 13/16" from inside of the shelf to the center of the shaft (center shot). I spent years working in a Mathews shop and probably setup close to 500 of them and even their guys at the factory will tell you they design the bows to have center shot adjusted to 13/16".
I would absolutely be concerned with it if the center shot is changing from full draw to static. That means you are applying hand torque or have cam/idler wheel lean, which ultimately is causing horizontal nock travel when the bow is shot. These things absolyutely can be tuned out of the bow or cleaned up in your form.
I was thinking the same thing. There is some riser shift due to cable rod/roller guard torque. As well as cam/idler shift but the center shot itself should no be moving.
So even if I have my field points and broadhead hitting the same point out to 45 yards I should retune? The bow is only a year old so I hope its not the bow! My form is decent, not a pro but I shoot consistant. I will check out french tuning tonight.
Ok I checked it out and just as I thought, I now have more questions than I know what to do with! How can I retune with my sights and rest already tuned? I am tearing paper great! But like you said I shouldn't paper tune my bow by adjusting my rest. So how can I undo what I've done and how do I go about french tuning or walk back tuning. Should I center all my pins, center my rest and start over that way? My only concern with french tuning and walk back tuning is how does it affect arrow flight? Can't an arrow be shooting straight but not be flying straight? I'd be afraid that after french tuning I'd check my arrow flight with paper and find it's tearing bad.
That's where you will need to figure out if your torquing the grip. Or have a spine issue or cam lean issues. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
Yes, the fly straight with no wobble. That is what you are looking for. With your rest that far left I bet your arrows wave back and forth (or make circles) in flight. If it was my bow I would start from scatch and go over the whole thing. You can mark where your rest and sight are now and always go back to it. Summary of what I would do: Tight limb bolts all the way and back off 1/4 turn. Check ATA, brace height, cam rotation, idler lean. Set rest so arrow is 11/16" from riser and nock is 1/8 - 3/16" high from level (that is how my WBs tune best, my Z7 liked 1/4"). Walkback tune. BH tune. To me Paper tuning get lots of people it trouble. Paper is just a starting point. Some bows will never shoot paper perfect. And if you do get a bullet hole at 5 yards what about at 3 or 10? Maybe have someone else shoot it throew paper and see. Also maybe have someone stand behing you and whatch your arrows fly. Lighted nocks are great to see how your arrow goes. What is your draw weight, draw length, arrow length, arrow spine and tip weight? Good info: http://forums.mathewsinc.com/archer...bow-tuning-guide-updated-as-requested-178335/ http://forums.mathewsinc.com/archer...k-tuning-diagram-modified-close-method-85432/
