Hi Guys. I thought I should paper tune my bow because I had field points all sighted in went to try broadheads and hitting target was off. So I hope to attach photos, I have tail hit to left at 6ft, tail hit to right at 10 & 15 yards and at 20yds looks good, repeated with same results with different arrow. I can't shoot any farther than 20yds at my home and that is pusing it I have to shoot from driveway though garage into back yard. I had moved my rest left & right at 6ft and got no diffence so I put it back and I tryed adjusting my limbs by one turn no differnce even tried a couple other odd ball arrows I had sitting around can get no change. Any ideas what to try next or or why I would be having such a hard time with this? Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Hard to tell without being able to look at the bow. But that tear is bad, very very bad. Cam's in sync? That would be the first thing I look at. Next, check cam lean. Also, could be a grip issue. Or a culmination of all three. I would totally re-spec the bow then start over.
To expand on that. Pull ALL strings and cables. Re-twist or untwist to factory specs. Put bow back together. Check axle to axle and brace height. Then check poundage to make sure you are hitting right or close to your peak. Set center shot and shoot. We can reassess at that point.
Contact looks to be a very real possibility. The reason you see the paper going from left to right is the fletching is trying to fix the kick.As the fletching straightens the kick out,it goes past center and creates the opposite tear. Just for giggles,try a bareshaft at 3 feet or so.This will eliminate contact as an issue and will concentrate solely on form and spine. That much tear,I would assume it is not bow hand torque,atleast not all of it. You may have a weak arrow spine,cam lean or contact. Or a combination.
I suspect this is the case,along with some cam lean. For that arrow to spine out,the bow needs to be backed off to around 60# or cut them off to 28" raw shaft length.
And I thought Roseann Barr's rendition of the national anthem was outta tune. Yikes! Start over dude!
Thanks for the relies. wondering if I should have got back into archery, dont remember having this much trouble with my old bows but that was 20yrs ago. someone mentioned re-sync the bow and check cam lean what does that mean? the bow has not been shot more than 200-300 times less than 6months old. and the arrows I have are the gold tip xt hunter 7595 so I think they are sized right, but I could be wrong as nothing seem to be the way I remember archery to be. I just hope I can get things straightened out and enjoy archery again and getting out there after some game. Thank You all for knowlage and help on this. Good Hunting
I know this is from a different forum but here is an awesome vid for basic tuning. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f25Wr1EULRg
Don't get discouraged. Archery is the same as it has always been,however,the equipment is like a sports car. Little faster but a lot more fun to drive. Your arrows are LONG. As the arrow gets longer,the dynamic spine gets weaker.You either need to lower the poundage or cut the arrows off. Just because the arrow says 7595,it is still a .340 spine and will only work within a certain set of parameters. Cam lean is nothing more than the cam or idler wheel leaning to the side,either at rest or full draw. If all else is right and there is a tear,you can twist one side of the yoke system(split cables at the top of your bow) to straighten out the cam and eliminate the tear. Sync is basically just timing the cam system,even with a 1 cam system,the cam needs to be rotated properly. You appear to have multiple issues going on so you need to break it down in to single steps. For tuning purposes,lower poundage to 60#.This will get your spine where I believe it shoulod be. Next,make sure you have no contact.You can put lipstick on the rest or footpowder and it will rub off on the fletching if there is contact.You may already have wrinkled or black streaks on the flecth.This is a sign of contact as well. Once contact is eliminated,set centershot.I prefer french tune. Just draw a vertical line on the target with a carpenter level.Shoot line at 3 feet.Set sight. Move back to 20 or 30 yards and shoot a group at the line.If the arrows impact left or right,adjust REST to bring arrow to line. Repeat until you are hitting line at both distances. Recheck paper,if you have a tear at this point,you probably have a cam lean issue that you will need a press to fix.Your shop should be able to help with this. Recheck paper,if the tear is good,go shoots some broadheads. If they impact with the field points,all is good.Paper should be good as well,unless you have a hand torque issue. You can try increasing poundage a little and when the broadheads start drifting off from fieldtips,you are probably running into spine issues. I know this seems like a lot to take in,but it is pretty simple.Just break it down into steps and you should be able to get it.
Thanks tfox, I will keep this step by step and give that a try. I may try reduceing wt. I took bow into shop and they say the cams are good. they are not fans of paper tuning. we did move rest a little, only shot 6 times at maybe 3 feet it still had tear. question as long as arrows are hitting the mark is the paper tuning just a way to get more out of the arrows? does it matter how the arrow get there as long as it hits the mark, dont get me wrong i would love to get it tuned & shotting as straight possible. I just am running out of time want to be hunting by next weekend, think I should just get sighted in with broadheads again. My thoughts at this time is get sighted in so I am confidnet in a clean kill, if God put a animal in front of me. I can come back and start over and really devote time to this tuning. Any thought from anyone? Should I just get ready to hunt or go though the tuning 1st? 1. So is it posible to have bow tuned for field points and still have broadheads hit different? 2. If so do you re tune for broad heads or just adjust sights? 3. Or switch broadheads? 4. Or is there a heavier spine arrow than what Im using 7595 GT? Not sure I want to reduce pull a whole lot and dont think I can shorten them. 5. Get different bow? Thank You to everyone, so glad I found this sight, I didnt have this tool back when I shoot bow back 25 years ago. Thanks again and good luck hunting all.
shoot a shaft without a FP on it or a lighter FP and see what happens. GT's chart says the spine is correct, though your arrows are on the long side which would reduce dynamic spine. other than that, like others have stated verify your center shot and check for any contact issues.
as far as spine goes, does the FP or BH wt. add into that? Would I be better to go to a heaver Wt tip? Or am thinking wrong again should I try a lighter tip?
more weight at the tip would resist accelleration causing the arrow to flex more. I would see if I could paper tune without any points or BH's then go back with points installed and see if it goes back to tearing. Then I would shorten my shaft as much as possible and try again. If it still wont tune I would get a stiffer spined arrow. Also as was already posted I'd check for cam lean. Another possibillity as you mentioned you've been outta the game for a while is your form. Are you confident that your form is decent?
That makes sence, I guess I was thinking wrong again, thinking more wt would slow it down but have more energy. I am shooting 100gr. items now. Thin I will try to turn pondage down and see what happens, guess it would be easier on my old shoulder, just hate to give up the speed and energy. Thanks for your help on this.
A little tear isn't bad and wouldn't adversely affect too much, however, your tear is excessive and needs to be fixed. Broadheads will not fly consistent with those tears. Penetration will also be greatly affected. Go through the steps, you will find it is pretty easy to do. How did they check cam lean? Get everything else right and then you can adjust the yoke to clean the tear up. Sometimes cam lean looks fine but it needs a slight tweak. Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
Papertune is like walkback tuning, you are trying to get bullet holes at all distances. With your arrow tail flexing that much you are way underspined. Moving the rest will not affect tears like that. While at the archery shop did you try shooting a stiffer spined arrow? A stiffer arrow will allow you to keep your DW up like you're wanting. What DW is your bow at, did they check that at the shop also?
Draw wt is at 70lbs, can I get a stiffer arrow? We did not try that at the pro shop. I'm not sure how they checked the cam lean, they took it to the back room and checked things, I saw them with a t-sq type thing on the string and looking down the cam toward bottom end of bow. I going out to do some shooting now. Will let you know how things go. Thanks so much for the help.
next stiffer spine for gold tip would be a .300, Trad. 7595, or a series-22. heres the link to the shaft selector chart. http://goldtip.com/arrowcontent.aspx?page=chart looks like your arrow is on the weak side of what they recommend. I use Beman .340 spine which is the 7595 equivalent with a 70# bow but my shafts are 28" with 160 Gr. points. you could probably get away with 29 - 29.5" shaft lengths. just remember to keep your fingers down when shooting BH's, lol.
