Alright, I bought this mathews monster from a legit mathews dealer, he also sold me every piece attached to the bow as well as arrows. I've been having accuracy issus at the 50 yards range and with practice it doesnt get better. I've been having contact with my drop away as well as noticing my arrow almost bending or moving side to side in the first 5-10 yards of flight. Not every time but sometimes. So my goal is to be very consistent from 20-50 yards. I'm loosing the drop away and replacing it with a whisker biscut. Buying new easton full metal jacket arrows (400 grn) fletched with quick spin fletchings. Im also thinking of dropping from my 125 grn practice tips to 100. I have no idea if or what sort of difference all this will make. I'm so frusterated with it and I've never understood arrows fully, the back wieght the front wieght and the effects they have. Does this sound like a decent set up to anyone? QAD=whisker biscut unknown custom arrows= 400 grain easton full metal jackets 3 inch vains= 3 inch quick spin vains? do longer vains equal better spin? 125 grn=100 grn I have a high end micro undjustable sight. Im keeping that. Thank you for any advise!
What weight draw its the Monster? A 400 FMJ should only be good upt to about 60lbs and 28" long. Any longer or higher draw weight will likely give you fits. If your up in the 70lb/ 28" = 340's, 70lb/29"= 300's. I'm guessing your underspined. Have you walk-back tuned it or paper tuned? There are alot of things to consider when starting the tuning process. FYI, Most of the time you will get a little better arrow flight with a drop-away than a rest like the WB.
Could be a number of things...your form...have someone who knows proper form critique you. I did and it helped me a lot. make sure your arrows have the proper spine they could be too weak. Was the rest set up with a laser so that your shooting from center shot. Whats your draw weight and length?
Hmmm... classic case of wrong tool for the job. If you want to open a can of paint use a paint can opener, not a screwdriver. If you want to shoot consistently out to 50 yards choose a bow with a long brace height, moderate cam and moderate to long ATA length (moderate speed). The Monster is the last bow I would choose, this is a VERY unforgiving bow. I wouldn't even consider selling this bow to a new archer. I'm not saying it's not a good bow, I'm saying it's not a good bow for a less than expert archer to be shooting consistently tight groups at 50 yards. Your rest contact is from the short brace height / high speed combination. If the bow is otherwise tuned then the fishtail you're seeing in the arrow is most likely from hand torque being magnified by the short brace height. I agree that the 400 spine is likely weak (unless you're well below 60 lbs.) especially considering that you want to go to the stiff side of the arrow selection chart for that cam. Radical cams like those tend to need a stiffer arrow than normal.
70# 28 1/2 I have paper tuned when i first bought it but the later noticed the string and the rest wernt in line it was very noticable so i took it to a small bow shop and they realined them but I never paper tuned after that. I always thought the heavier the arrow the stiffer the spine?
so if my rest contact is from the short brace hieght and the high speed would it be right to want to give up the accuracy of a drop away for a WB or should I attemt to find a drop away that moves faster?
You're reading the arrow spine rating incorrectly. Each arrow manufacturer has a different way of designating their spine. An Easton 340 is the same as a Carbon Express 350 is the same as a PSE 300. With Easton they use the actual deflection of the shaft as their spine rating number, for the others it's arbitrary. For some the spine increases as the number decreases, for others it's the opposite; be careful. This is an area the industry could really use some improvement on. For your set-up it sounds like a 340 deflection should be good. The FMJ arrow you're contemplating is a great choice, just go with the 340 instead of the 400.
Thank you for the advise, I'll do just that. Do you have an opinion on the rest? or what grn point to use with this set? or even the vains? my buddies keep telling me quick spin vains...idk though.
My opinion (which is by no means an expert opinion) is to stay with the drop away. I have had GREAT success and notice a HUGE improvement by switching to a drop away. I am tight out to 50 yards (haven't tried farther) and it is super quiet on the draw and I just couldn't be happier. Before I switched to a drop away I was all over the target at 40 yards, not I'm baseball sized groupings at 50 yards. As for the arrows, I shoot 100gr field points and I'm currently shooting Muzzy 90gr (Muzzy 90gr actually weigh 97-99gr if you weigh them). In the beginning I had many issues with the 70 lbs. draw but I lowered it to around 60 lbs. and my problems were solved. This is another option. I plan on moving up arrow size, tip size, and draw weight when I can afford a dozen and a half arrows and tips for them.
I'm not sure on the rest. I don't have any experience setting up a Monster so I'll defer to those who have as to what worked best on it. I always shoot 125 grain heads for deer because you can find them in most any style/type. If 150 grain was more standard I'd use them. A 340 FMJ with a 125 grain head and a 50/75 grain Easton break-off brass HIT insert would be awesome! Most any fletching would work well. If you're someplace dry I'd go with feathers for their light weight, good stabilization and contact forgiveness. I can't use them effectively here because of the brush tearing them up and rain/humidity flattening them out so I shoot vanes here. I went away from the NAP QuickSpins because they're so expensive compared to a Blazer and they don't do anything more for me than the Blazer does.
