I recently had a new string and additional work done to my bow. Prior to the work, the bow was fast, accurate and loud. Since the work, it seems slow and at 30 yards, the arrow drops about a foot from before. Admittedly, I haven't tuned it yet. But, I've only shot it once since the work was done. I'll be reading up on bow tuning, etc. But, anything I really should be looking for on this, or should I take it back and ask the shop about it? Thanks.
What brand/model bow is it? Just by sounds of it I would say your strings and cables are longer than what they should be. Check your ATA, brace height and tiller to make sure they are to mfr specs. If they are off specs, get the mfr lengths for string and cables, take back to shop and have them press the bow and individually take the string and cables off to measure and make sure they are to manufacture specs. Then have them re-time the bow to manufacturer specs as well.
Thanks for the response, it's a PSE Rogue MF: http://tune.pse-archery.com/BowDetail.aspx?Year=2008&Model=0822MF I'll stop by with the bow and see what they say. Was a bit disappointed as I figured it would shoot relatively close to what it was before.
You might also check to see if your knocking point is high or your peep is set a little low from where it was. A little change can be expected but a foot at 30yds is excessive. The Rouge looks to be a cam 1/2 or binary type cam system. Make sure that your string is contacting both top and bottom cam draw stops at the same time when coming to full draw. A draw board witll come in VERY handy for this
I think that once you check your specs, you find that you just need to get everything back in tune. With todays after market strings (as long as you have them twisted into spec) you shouldn't lose anything. What kind of string did you get? I've had really good luck with VaporTrail hitting the specs dead on when I order. Do you have a scale? Does it feel like it's easier to pull?
Thanks again for the info. I'm not sure what brand string it was as I didn't think to ask the shop that did the work. No scale, but it feels relatively easy to draw compared to before. Haven't had much of a chance to look at the bow this weekend due to unforeseen incidents needing attention. I've got Bill Winke's "Setting up the Perfect Hunting Bow" book that I'm going to start reading tonight. I really need to learn and know how to do this stuff on my own. Have to start making a list of tuning things to acquire...
Quick update: I managed to hit the shop today, and they looked at it with not much else other than I need to finish adjusting the sites and they upped the poundage. I was shooting near 70# before and they said it was around 60#. So, it's set to about 67# right now. Unfortunately, I noticed at the range today that my peep site is about an inch low. So, I need to figure out how to slide it up with the tension wraps on it.
You should be able to just slide the wraps up and down, it might take a little force though. If you move the peep much, you might have to reinstall the peep in order to get it to be straight when you draw. The twist of the string might mess with being able to see through the peep at full draw.
Quick update: After screwing around with the bow for a while, I surrendered and took it to a different shop. After looking at it for a couple of minutes, he found: Peep sight was about 1.5" too low cam timing was off Vanes (small dura vanes) were hitting string Sight was messed up Whisker Biscuit causing issues (alignment and messing with vanes) So, wound up leaving it with this shop to get everything set. New rest, will most likely change out the stabilizer, etc. Frustrating that it's now been to three different shops. But, if this gets it done right, I'll be very happy.
Yikes, sounds like the first shop hurt you pretty bad, good luck with getting your bow all working right.
That stinks man. Never under estimate the value of a good bow shop. I'm lucky enough to have an excellent shop about 20 minutes away. They are the ONLY shop in my area that I would leave my bow with if needed, and they're not even a Bowtech dealer, but a Matthews shop. They are just really good at what they do. When you change strings on a bow, chances are, things will need to be retuned some. If the new strings are set to spec, the bow will be different than what it was with the old strings. The reason? You probably tuned the bow with the old strings differently and when you slap new strings on there, everything will change slightly. If they are good strings, it will take 50 shots or so to settle them in. After that, you can begin tuning it. Good luck. Hope you get it straightened out.
Glad they got it figured out. This is a perfect example of why I decided that I wanted to learn to do all the work on my own bow. ... that and the fact that the nearest shop in 2 hrs away :D
There's nothing better than jumping behind the counter and setting up your own bow. You'll learn some very invaluable information about how everything operates on it. There may come a time when you don't have access to a bow shop or another knowledgeable person, and knowing about your bow could be the difference between your hunt happening or not. A guy I know traveled a distance to go hunting out west, only to find out that almost everything on his bow had been knocked out of whack (Site was loose, the tie-in for his rest had come undone and a few others). Luckily he had a few tools with him and some serving and was able to put everything back together and go on his elk hunt the next day.
Thanks all. I am in the process of learning. It this was beyond my current capabilities so took it to the experts. I thought I was before too. But I feel a lot better this time compared to the shop that did the string.
I don't see any mention in here of the cables. The cables have the greatest control of the draw weight. If they're shorter (twisted up) the weight increases and vice-versa. The weight is checked at peak draw. It sounds to me like the first shop didn't check and adjust this when they installed the cables.
There was a lot the shop that replaced the string didn't check. Simple things really. I'll readily admit to not being knowledgeable about this after the work was done. But, I'm aware of it now and still plan to continue to learn about it. So, to somewhat finalize this, aside from resetting the cam timing, angles, resetting the peep to my correct height, and other things I mentioned before. I wound up upgrading a few things too.
