340 spine if you shoot a 29" arrow and a 100 or 125 grain tip. If you were to be able to cut the arrow down a bit you could go with the 400s and 100 grain tip. I used to shoot a 400 at 70 lbs and 100 grain tip but my arrows were only 27 inches. That had me borderline between 340s and 400s. Now I am shooting a 340 spine and thinking about going to a 125 grain head.
It shouldn't conflict. Your rest should be between the riser and your strings which would allow for your arrows to be shorter then your draw length. Contrary to some posts in this thread the tech stuff is important. Can you kill a deer if your bow isn't tuned? Sure, but you greatly increase the likely hood of wounding a deer because of a lack of KE in your arrow. Just my .02 on the "tech crap". ^^^ This
If you want to figure out spline and you are buying Carbon Express, go to this page and check out the PDF's. There is a lot of good information there. http://www.carbonexpressarrows.com/cms/content/arrow-selection-guide
Kid, on the tech stuff, the more precise you get, the less variables you have in your game. The less variables you have in your game, the greater your success will be. Can you catch a 10 pound bass on a trout rod? Yep. Is it easier with the proper set up. Hell yes. IMO, you are not over thinking this decision, you are showing great maturity in wanting to make the best choice you can for your setup. You are getting some very good info from OHbowhntr. Use it. Esp if you are just starting out. Learn this stuff right and then determine if you think you are being too fussy. Either way, keep asking questions and good luck.
Yeah I apprechiate the HE!! out of you guys. And by using the Carbon Express converter I saw that I'm really gonna be at a 60 draw weight if my bow is tuned for 65. With 28" arrows. So that helps out. And I would like to get maybe 6 of those Cabela's arrows 28.5" at .340 and maybe 6 Easton Arrows at .300 at 29" length. Can you order those arrows by the half dozen and if so where?
I think if you get 2 different brands/specs of arrows you are going to add fuel to the confusion fire. Even if they are supposed to match up different arrows fly different. I switched from Gold Tip to Cabelas last year just because of price and they are definately not as good as Gold Tip but they are still pretty good arrows for a better price...especially starting out. You can always upgrade later.
Good Point. So I'll just order the Cabela's ones then. Just need to figure out what arrow length I need now. Since my bow is coming in today. Gonna go ahead and get that done.
How much are you looking to spend Kid? You seem set on Eastons or Cabelas, but IMO Gold Tip XT hunters are a great arrow for the money. I have had really good luck ordering them for friends who are just hunting and need a quality arrow, with out the price. I have been ordering from huntersfriend.com and cutting equal amounts off each end.
Ben, Those Cabela's Stalker Extremes are GREAT arrows at a GREAT price. Probably the BEST arrows for the $$$ I've yet found, and they're AMERICAN MADE!!! That''s goes a LONG way with me. I have some GT's that aren't anywhere near as consistent or durable. I'd not recommend them if they weren't that good. $50/doz. raw shafts, and actually, if he calls a retail store and orders them over the phone, they'll cut them for free, and ship them to him. Ever decide you want a dozen arrows to do some stump shooting at a GREAT price, pick up a dozen and see for yourself. I've RH'd 16 of them shooting them our of 7 different bows...... I've bought 5 dozen of them over the last 5 yrs., and I have probably 35 or so serviceable arrows in various different fletching arrangements. I can realistically get almost 3 dozen of these for the price of one dozen of the expensive Maximas selects that run $180/dozen that I know a few guys shoot, and these arrows are as consistent as I'll ever need.
You may even want to go check out what is at the Gander Mtn. shop if that's who you're going to have cut them for you anyway. For the money I've been setting everyone here up with the PSE radialXweave Pro. Carbon arrows don't get any more consistent within a dozen (+/- 1 grain) or have a better straightness tolerance (+/- .001") than these and they're less than $100. For more weight I typically use a 100 grain brass insert from Muzzy to make them uber killing machines.
Got my Martin Threshold in. Just got done putting it together "for the most part". They should definitely put instructions with this thing cause it was almost rocket science. That and the allen wrenches didn't fit. Good thing I got a ton of tools haha only took me 30 min to find my allen wrenches. But being a handy guy it didn't take me long to figure it out. The arrows that came with it are 29" long and they are a good length. I could not find an alignment mark on the bow so I can't put on the notch. So taking it to the pro shop tomorrow. Honestly this bow feels really good. Was already set up for 65 lbs of draw weight and 29 inch draw. LOVE it. Only thing i could think that it would need would be a grip on the handle. Not fond of the skeletal feel. Where can i get a handle that would fit on it.
Don't think you can put a grip on that bow. You can get some mole skin though and wrap it around the grip. Also Sims makes a rubber wrap for around the grip.
Another question I have do you guys use the button notches or the string loops. I told the guy tuning my bow to do both was wondering if that was a bad idea.
http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/technical/196301-how-tie-nocksets-d-loop.html The above is a great thread for tying in nocksets and loops.
I don't know how you could use both but the loop is the better of the two release attachment options. For grips check out; Shrewd, Torqueless or any of the other custom manufacturers to see if they make one for that riser.
See that picture is what I wanted the guy at gander mountain to do but he argued me up and down. Finally I said did you buy the bow hahaha. Then I told him to just put the knock point on top of the loop to keep it from sliding
This is how my bow is set up. My d-loop never stays, it always slides. I never liked using super glue or something similar to make it stay and even then that didnt last. This setup solved the problem. Ive seen some people have it with only a bottom brass knock point and not one on top. Just curious what did the guy at gander mtn say the reason was for not doing it like that?
