What is the deal here.........I shoot a shorter then average draw length 27".......but when I see other guys shooting at the range and pics of some competition archers I realize that either I am under drawn or they are all over drawn. Is there a plain english description of where your string or nock should lie against your face at full draw?? My nock is pretty much at the corner of my mouth and my string falls in front of my nose........a slight forward tip and the string falls right on the tip of my nose. This gives me 3 solid anchor points of nose, kisser, and knuckle behind jaw bone. I am totally comfortable, shoot as well as I ever need to and really have no desire to change......just wondering though because nothing else in archery seems to vary as much from person to person. If I anchored like this guy I would be shooting at least another 1 1/2" draw length. Is it a matter of right vs wrong????............or more of a comfort thing?
I've quite often wondered the same thing myself. I think it's more a matter of personal preference than anything. If you can be consistant with a longer draw length I guess there are benefits (additional speed & KE) so I don't see why you wouldn't. For me, I anchor with the tip of my nose just touching my string. That seems to be the most consistant anchor point that gives me the best accuracy. Obviously for our mustached friend pictured above, he likes it a bit longer. Looks like maybe the back corner of his fletch is touching the corner of his mouth?
I shot against "this" guy many times. He is a shooting machine! I only beat him a couple of times at best. Duane Price, from West Allis. I think he shot the first perfect score at Vegas, all X's.
I was shooting 29" when I first started but increased to 31" and gained like 15fps. With a 6'1" frame it still fits me ok and I never get string slap unless I break the string of course.
I've heard a lot of guys shoot with a too long a draw length. With today's bows and equipment they are more like shooting a rifle anyway. Shoot what's comfortable and consistent for you. I may shoot something like this guy, I like the fletching hitting the corner of my mouth. I used to shoot a 31" length till I started using a release then I shortened to 30", or did Hoyt shorten to 30" for me? lp
I used to shoot more like the guy in the picture, but now I shoot a shorter draw length, 26" and have been more consistent. I may not be a Professional Shooter, but I can hold my own at leagues and many deer and other game have gone down to my arrows. I agree that there is always the debate over speed and KE, to which I reply; With my draw length shooting a Mathews Outback, Carbon Express CX100's, 100 grain tip/BH and Quick Spin Speed Hunter Vanes. This is shot off of a drop away rest and I only accomplish 253fps, and I get less that 50flbs KE. I have had more pass throughs on deer that not. My point is and it has been made here, shoot what you are comfortable with, you will be more proficient that way.
i once heard it doesnt matter how long your length is just so you do the same thing every time.... well not entirly true i know but in terms of "mattering" justin brings up a good point. KE is probably the bigger factor, i do know this... i have to "check" myself as to what im wearing...a cap, a hood, stocking hat etc i try and get as many anchor pts as possible so im the same every time no matter whats on my dome
I also have a question about my draw length that doesn't exactly fit his question, but it's draw-length related. I just got my new bow, and I was shooting for a longer length of time today for the first time. I shot for about on and a half hours, and was starting to get pretty tired. I started out doing just fine, but as I shot more shots I was having problems with the string clipping my forearm every now and then. I can't say that it felt too good, seeing as I have a couple pretty good welts on my forearm now. Is this indicative of my draw length being too long, or does my arm just start to inch it's way closer to the path of my string as I get tired?
I've been eyeballing this thread for a while now, just didn't have the time to provide a good response until now. Atlas, I'm not an expert, but have been through enough formal coaching to think I can provide a valid response. First of all, if what your doing works for you, unless you want to think about getting into competitive shooting and want to take it seriously, don't change a thing. Most people are under the impression that you determine correct draw length by looking at their reference points on the face. In reality, if one is shooting with back tension (doesn't matter what type of release), those reference points are of secondary importance to having the correct geometry with your core form. If your core form is correct, DL is correct, and bow specs (ATA/string angle) fit, those reference points should fall into place. Depending on the venue of archery you are shooting, you will find that top shooters will actually vary their draw length to accomodate the types of shot scenarios they may encounter, so take this with a grain of salt. In general, for hunting situations......shorter is better. I actually change DL by about a half inch between hunting and 3D, and even longer for indoor spots where all shots are taken on level ground. Shorter DL in general means more muscle to stabilize, which will induce a faster sight picture over a small area, and longer DL will typically induce slower sight picture movement over a wider area. Long can be good for shooting situations that provide consistent good footing and no bad angles, but when faced with hunting/3D/field archery types of shots where it's not always ideal, sometimes going shorter can help you "stay behind the bow" by using a bit more muscle to stabilize yourself. When draw length is proper (according to the book), you will typically see the archer able to have those reference points you talked of while being able to form a perfect T, both vertically with their spine and head position, as well as the bow arm to the rear release elbow. This perfect T is most often going to be a position that allows the shooter to utilize their bone structure best to support the shot, so they can relax all muscles not needed for the actual execution of a shot. The only muscles needed when done correctly, is going to be the rhomboids in the back (assuming your not punching). The front bow arm can relax, the shoulders can relax, the release arm can relax, etc. Assuming the front arm remains the same from bow to bow, I typically look at my rear release elbow position to determine correct my draw length. If it's inline or very slightly up and out front, that's good depending on the venue. Up and out front (a little short on DL) allows me a little room to pull through the shot and is ideal for 3D, hunting, and field archery. It's important though that I'm not so short that I am forced to dip my head into it to get my nose on the string and other reference points.......when I dip my head into it the
Good comment about not having to lean into the string with your head, Rick. Even if your draw length is correct, with today's shorter bows the string angle can be extreme enough that you can't get your nose to touch the string. I've had to adjust to one anchor point at the corner of my mouth with my 33 inch bow and a 31 inch draw. Keeping my head in an upright position helps give me a more balanced feel and I shoot better!
